High Tech Train Wreck

Greg55_99

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A status update. Things are going slowly.

I've been cleaning up the car (and garage) and still collecting. A month ago, I hit the underside of the car and engine compartment with my 2500PSI pressure washer. Got a lot of the accumulated dirt and some undercoating off. I'm going to have to resort to the heat gun method of getting it off or rent a 3500PSI pressure washer from Home Depot. It kinda sorta works, but, cleaner is better.

I've also, via Craigslist, picked up more stuff.

Complete 88 Dakota front suspension parts
Complete set of new ball joints, tie rods, steering rack etc for the installation.
Differential brace for the Cobra IRS (if you do the homework on the Cobra IRS, you'll find this item is a necessity).
Nylon differential mount bushings for the Cobra IRS (Same as above).
Set of Mustang 17" Bullitt wheels with tires (decent used for roll around)

Almost found a set of drop spindles for the Dakota for $50, but I guess the guy backed out. Still on the lookout for a set. Rule of thumb about Craigslist "Always be willing to negotiate". Works for me.

So far, I haven't found any reason I can't do this. If you can measure 29 1/4" between the insides of your frame rails, It should work. Once I get everything lined up, I'll tack weld it into place, then call a REAL welder to tie it all together. That's the plan.

Greg
Volare1.jpg


Volare1.jpg
 

Greg55_99

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Still more slow progress. Snails pace. F-body k-member out and trial fit of Dakota crossmember in. I think... it's gonna work. I cleaned up some of the gunk on the frame rails, marked dead center for placement and tapped it in with curses and a mallet. Tight, but fits fine. One of my major concerns was how the lower a-arm was going to clear the frame. It does. It will come out for more cleaning, marking and cutting, but, I think I'm on the right path.

Greg

Volare_Dak1.jpg


Volare_Dak2.jpg


Volare_Dak3.jpg
 

MiradaMegacab

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How's the ride height gonna be?
Seems the lower control arm is tight to the frame, resulting in a lower stance?
 

Greg55_99

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Lower stance is good. I've got the crossmember valley positioned between the rails at the same point as the original k-member. If you've seen the 87-93 2WD Dakota's, you'll notice they ride slightly high. If the stance is lowered in my application, that will make drop spindles unnecessary. I'll adjust as I go along.

Greg
 

1980volare

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So why put an junk irs setup in? i cant think of any situation in which i would rather have irs. 03/04 cobra 8.8s have been know to hold some power, but they do not hook up. hooking a IRS car is extremely difficult. why remove an solid axle to put something far weaker. Just doesnt make any sense to me but what do I know.
 

Greg55_99

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Here are my thoughts on this:

1. FMJ's ain't worth spit. You've got to love them.

2. I disagree with classifying the 03/04 Cobra IRS as "junk". In engineering speak, we call it "A system, when operated beyond its design parameters, will tend to fail catastrophically!". The trick is, how do you uprate the point of failure knowing it cannot be cured? Answer comes in two parts. 1. IRS brace from Steeda and nylon mount bushings to take the slop out of the unit. It's common practice among the Cobra crowd. It's not perfect, but it seems to work. The brace and bushings all came off of Craigslist for short money. 2. My engine is a 413. Not a 500 hp stroker. It will get a freshen up and that's what I'll go with. I’m not building a drift car or drag racer. Just my little version of a Caddy CTS. The way I drive, I don't believe the engine will overwhelm the IRS.

3. Refer to Item # 1.

Greg
 

kkritsilas

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IRS is a real step backwards if the car is to be drag raced. As 1980volare said, it doesn't hook up well in a drag race situation. In any other situation, it is an improvement. It can improve ride, and if properly emgomeered, improve handling. It really depends on what the desired use of the car is.

Just as an FYI, the Ford 8.8" IRS center section is the exact same as the Ford 8.8" solid axle. The changes are just outside of the center section. So anything that works/can be used in the Ford 8.8" solid axle center section can be used in the 8.8" IRS center section.

Kostas
 

1980volare

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I appologize for the confusion, i wasnt implying that they break, i was saying they dont work as well as a Solid axle in many aspects. I have a few close freinds that have 03-04 cobras some with the IRS, and some with a solid axle swap. all of them make in the 660-800whp range. the rears hold up, but the only ones that can do anything in the ways of traction are the solid axle ones. I consulted my buddy that has a built IRS and he uses them with moderate success Check out full tilt boogie racing. those cars are no slouch, but the IRS just kills those cars and many other performance cars. Not saying a IRS car cant handle or hook up, but a live axle will offfer much better stability, and performance especially in a car with a weak subframe like the fmj platform. Just depends on what your goals are and such.


Props for being different just looking out for ya!
 

Shorty Thompson

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Here are my thoughts on this:

1. FMJ's ain't worth spit. You've got to love them.

2. I disagree with classifying the 03/04 Cobra IRS as "junk". In engineering speak, we call it "A system, when operated beyond its design parameters, will tend to fail catastrophically!". The trick is, how do you uprate the point of failure knowing it cannot be cured? Answer comes in two parts. 1. IRS brace from Steeda and nylon mount bushings to take the slop out of the unit. It's common practice among the Cobra crowd. It's not perfect, but it seems to work. The brace and bushings all came off of Craigslist for short money. 2. My engine is a 413. Not a 500 hp stroker. It will get a freshen up and that's what I'll go with. I’m not building a drift car or drag racer. Just my little version of a Caddy CTS. The way I drive, I don't believe the engine will overwhelm the IRS.

3. Refer to Item # 1.

Greg


Whereabouts you located ? I wanna go for a ride when you get it done .:hello2:
 

Greg55_99

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I appologize for the confusion, i wasnt implying that they break, i was saying they dont work as well as a Solid axle in many aspects. I have a few close freinds that have 03-04 cobras some with the IRS, and some with a solid axle swap. all of them make in the 660-800whp range. the rears hold up, but the only ones that can do anything in the ways of traction are the solid axle ones. I consulted my buddy that has a built IRS and he uses them with moderate success Check out full tilt boogie racing. those cars are no slouch, but the IRS just kills those cars and many other performance cars. Not saying a IRS car cant handle or hook up, but a live axle will offfer much better stability, and performance especially in a car with a weak subframe like the fmj platform. Just depends on what your goals are and such.


Props for being different just looking out for ya!

No need to apologize, I wasn't confused. In truth, you and I are on the same page but, due to my driving style, come to different conclusions. Currently the car has a 69 (I think) B body 8 3/4 sure grip rear with 3:91's. I KNOW that that is pretty much bullet proof when it comes to dropping the hammer with a big block. However, at my age, dropping the hammer on a set of $800 tires I just paid for and watching them go up in smoke is not an option. These days I'm into "Motoring briskly through the highways and byways of sedate New England". Yeah, I've hit the "Flat Cap" generation. That's why IRS would work for me. My other ride of choice is a 2010 Challenger SE V6. That's my daily driver. Very brisk indeed! It's got a REAL good ride.

Greg
 
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nothing wrong with what your doing greg. everyone assumes, there is only one way to build a car and that's as a drag car. kind of like the horse coming out of the barn with blinders on. only one way to go straight ahead
 

Greg55_99

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Volare_Dak4.jpg
This may not look like I've done a lot, but, I have. I've had the Dakota crossmember out then in again three times and the F-body member in and out twice taking measurements. I'd laid a long straight edge across the F-body k-frame and using the grease fittings on top of the upper ball joint, marked out the axle centerline. I had to do this multiple times to make sure I got it right. I did the same with the Dakota crossmember out of the car. Once I get it all marked out to where I thought it should be, I put the Dak one back in. Before I did that, I had to trim a piece of the frame where the drivers side rear k-frame mounting goes. Once trimmed, it slipped in with some shoving. Things I have learned. F-body frame rails are not symetric. The drivers side rail bows in slightly where the steering box coupler goes. I'll have to do something about that later. Right now, it's just sitting there (again) marked out. Fits well.

Greg

Volare_Dak4.jpg
 

Greg55_99

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Once I got everything where I THINK it should be positioned, I stuck the spindle and brake assembly on and held it in place with tie wraps and a block of wood. I couldn't put the spring perch and upper a-arm on yet. Just checking for fit.

Volare_Dak5.jpg
 

Greg55_99

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After that, stuck on the Mopar Rallye wheel and the fender from the rafters. Looks OK.
Volare_Dak6.jpg
Volare_Dak7.jpg


Pay no atention to the ragtop in the corner. I guess more measuring, then some quality time with a sawzall is next.

Greg

Volare_Dak6.jpg


Volare_Dak7.jpg
 
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