Oil light is on, slant 6

[Aspen500]

Sounds like the engine has to come out no matter what so,,,,,,,,,,maybe pull it and tear it down first to see exactly what happened and what parts need replaced and then decide what direction to go.

Not sure about your area but around here, finding an S6 in the salvage yard would be tough. If there are any, they've most likely been sitting there since before the end of the last century and would need overhauled anyways. Afterall, the last year it was used in cars is 1983 and trucks 1987 and most of those are looooooong gone by now (sadly).

 

[kkritsilas]

In our area, that is generally the case, but sometimes you get the odd old car popping up. Right now there is a 1982 Cordoba /6 in one of the yards around me, and couple of 5th Aves. There was nothing there for almost a year. Cordoba windshield is cracked, unfortunately. I've even seen a mid 1970s Dart there.

Sometimes they need overhauling, sometimes not. That's why you get the extended warranty. If it does, take it back, if it doesn't you are only out $20-40.

Craigslist or Kijiji (in Canada) is another way to go but that is cash and carry, no extended warranty to back up your purchase. And, needless to say, both are very much buyer beware.

Your idea is the best way forward. See if it is actually bearings or not. Maybe metal is from the oil pump or the pickup. If it is the bearings, then you have some decisions to make.

 

[MiradaMegacab]

Crate HellCat engine/trans/PCM time!!
Or a 440 Hemi with a 3/4 Cam

 

[Master M]

Depending how much you care to travel, this slant 6 is available on Ebay. Auction #331932537136, opening bid $300.00, and resell the trans. 100% feedback seller.

 

[Aspen500]

Crate HellCat engine/trans/PCM time!!
Or a 440 Hemi with a 3/4 Cam

Bad idea for a 17 year old boy

 

[MiradaMegacab]

PCM has'valet' mode...........

 

[BudW]

Something is out of line, here.
I’ve not seen metal anywhere that size get past the oil pickup screen, before.

I would at least take engine out and look it over - before replacement.
Worse case, is a good cleaning and a crank kit.
Best case, clean engine, polish crankshaft and toss bearings into it.

Either way - a great education for the kid (and you). At least this is an engine that most people can rebuild without having a big toolbox of special tools to work on it.

 

[shadango]

So here is what will probably seem like a dumb question......but please bear with me. Lol

The car is sitting in our driveway, which has some incline to it, inclined down to the street.....front end up on ramps, facing the street.

I know ideally you want to do work like pulling an engine on a perfectly flat smooth surface.....but the ceiling in my garage is too low to allow room for the engine hoist i think. Not to mention that we would have to start it up to get it turned around and relocated into my garage....which will just damage stuff more.

Would I be crazy to consider pulling the engine in my driveway?

 

[MiradaMegacab]

You're using an engine crane ? If so, pull your car into the driveway nose first. Pull the engine rolling the car away from the engine crane. The engine cranes are typically unstable, it's easier and safer to move the car. If your driveway is on a steep incline, tether the crane to your garage. Have some bricks or multiple wheel chocks and simply roll the car backwards, as needed, chocking as you're going.....

 

[Aspen500]

Something is out of line, here.
I’ve not seen metal anywhere that size get past the oil pickup screen, before.

I would at least take engine out and look it over - before replacement.
Worse case, is a good cleaning and a crank kit.
Best case, clean engine, polish crankshaft and toss bearings into it.

Either way - a great education for the kid (and you). At least this is an engine that most people can rebuild without having a big toolbox of special tools to work on it.

I only mentioned the possibility because I have seen chunks like that get through the pump. True, it takes a compromised pick up screen for it to happen and the one's I saw were on Ford's and Audi's (Ford tech '86-'07, Audi tech '07-12) not Mopar. I've run across ones where it got so plugged with debris, the screen got sucked away from the edge of the pick up, leaving a big opening. Some engines have a bypass in the pick up also. Don't remember any Mopar like that however.
As said, hoping I am wrong about it happening to your engine!

 

[shadango]

"You're using an engine crane ? If so, pull your car into the driveway nose first. Pull the engine rolling the car away from the engine crane."

Yeah I was thinking that but then the install would be the opposite.....aint no moving the car once the engine is out.....at least the way it is we can roll the car down to the replacement engine for the install....

 

[shadango]

Need some feedback from folks who have pulled a slant 6 --- what are the best attachment points for lifting going to be?

 

[MiradaMegacab]

Tether the car to the garage with a come-a-long...
Perhaps use a come-a-long attached to the ridge beam of the garage. Pull the engine inside a shady garage.....

 

[Aspen500]

Need some feedback from folks who have pulled a slant 6 --- what are the best attachment points for lifting going to be?

IIRC,,,,,,,,,,there's a pair of thread holes (3/8-16?) on top of the head, on the manifold side, right next to the valve cover. If you don't have an engine tilter, bolt a chain to both holes and hook the hoist onto the chain. You'll have to experiment with where to hook on the chain to get the front/rear balance right (the engine tilt).
If you don't know already, this is one version of an engine tilter.

 

[The_Red_Baron]

Majority of work done today. A/C is out, pulleys, wires connecting block to car, starter, emissions stuff, care, rad. New to disconnect trans lines, flex plate, etc. All done in the rain under a tent. About 6 hours in total so far. 6 hours on a /6. The irony....
Before

After

thanks to shadango for helping. And yes, we did label all hoses and wires. Made it up to 20 something, leaving most connected together. Good start. Starting school soon, so it won't be running for a while unfortunately. Sucks, but what you gonna do, right?

 

[shadango]

IIRC,,,,,,,,,,there's a pair of thread holes (3/8-16?) on top of the head, on the manifold side, right next to the valve cover. If you don't have an engine tilter, bolt a chain to both holes and hook the hoist onto the chain. You'll have to experiment with where to hook on the chain to get the front/rear balance right (the engine tilt).
If you don't know already, this is one version of an engine tilter.

View attachment 16916

Yeah, we are borrowing a cherry picker and a tilter...got it last night.

I still cant get over that those two bolts are gonna be adequate to lift 400 lbs without breaking, etc. without a lift plate, which we do not have.

But plenty of folks seem to have done it so......guess we will try it.

 

[shadango]

thanks to shadango for helping. And yes, we did label all hoses and wires. Made it up to 20 something, leaving most connected together. Good start. Starting school soon, so it won't be running for a while unfortunately. Sucks, but what you gonna do, right?

You are welcome kiddo.....

Our biggest slowdown will be deciding which way to go --- reman from autozone etc or have local shop rebuild.....and of course the time it takes to do that.

 

[shadango]

Can anyone advise on the tranny lines for a slant 6 in the 80 Volare?

They bolt to the block at the front oil pan bolt and then hug the block very tightly, going up and over the bellhousing....

I assume we need to remove them.....any advice? Looks like it will be a PITA, but didnt really dive into it yet.

 

[BudW]

If you are removing engine and transmission as an assembly, you can leave the lines attached to engine.

If transmission will be remaining in car, then yes, take pictures at bell housing, mid block and front of engine where the lines attach. Un-bolt them and they shouldn’t be in the way (looks like they will be but won’t be once said and done with.

I still cant get over that those two bolts are gonna be adequate to lift 400 lbs without breaking, etc. without a lift plate, which we do not have.

I use grade 8 bolts for these (because stronger and more rust resistant). You would be surprised on how much a 5/16” or a 3/8” bolt will hold up at a right angle to load.

With that said, I have bent a few bolts over the years – so I recommend you do not use original bolts for engine removal/install. Get some spares and use then. Bent as in still holding the load well, but bent enough you don’t want to re-use.

 

[shadango]

If you are removing engine and transmission as an assembly, you can leave the lines attached to engine.

If transmission will be remaining in car, then yes, take pictures at bell housing, mid block and front of engine where the lines attach. Un-bolt them and they shouldn’t be in the way (looks like they will be but won’t be once said and done with.

I use grade 8 bolts for these (because stronger and more rust resistant). You would be surprised on how much a 5/16” or a 3/8” bolt will hold up at a right angle to load.

With that said, I have bent a few bolts over the years – so I recommend you do not use original bolts for engine removal/install. Get some spares and use then. Bent as in still holding the load well, but bent enough you don’t want to re-use.

Yeah I was considering using the oem bolts as they dont hold much down and I figured they should be what the factory used....but you are right, if they get bent......bummer.

Should I get the same length or slightly longer?

Also, what can you recommend as far as sizes for bolts to be used with an engine stand?

Never did this before and the stand I borrowed doesnt have any bolts with it.....where am I bolting to on the engine block? The stand is not the cradle type, its the type that bolts to the back of the block.....