Oil light is on, slant 6

[BudW]

For engine removal bolts (I’m not sure if 5/16” or 3/8” bolts) I would use 2 inch long grade 8 (gold in color) bolts and get some big washers along with them. Washer strength is not a big matter.

When working with chain, there is a lot of “link” to get a bolt through.

On the engine stand, bolts needs to be about 1/2” longer than engine stand attachment.

If bolts are too long, then use washers to space out (or a large nut or something).
You are not torqueing the engine to the stand – so what use is not a biggie, as long as you are not using Chinese made grade 2 bolts (that break when looked at). You can tell those because they have 2 letters printed on the head (like “AE” for example).

The only thing “automotive related” that grade 2 bolts are used for is for ballast, for making terrorist bombs (I suspect – no actual knowledge known here) or to make flat tires.

 

[shadango]

For engine removal bolts (I’m not sure if 5/16” or 3/8” bolts) I would use 2 inch long grade 8 (gold in color) bolts and get some big washers along with them. Washer strength is not a big matter.

When working with chain, there is a lot of “link” to get a bolt through.

On the engine stand, bolts needs to be about 1/2” longer than engine stand attachment.

If bolts are too long, then use washers to space out (or a large nut or something).
You are not torqueing the engine to the stand – so what use is not a biggie, as long as you are not using Chinese made grade 2 bolts (that break when looked at). You can tell those because they have 2 letters printed on the head (like “AE” for example).

The only thing “automotive related” that grade 2 bolts are used for is for ballast, for making terrorist bombs (I suspect – no actual knowledge known here) or to make flat tires.

Great info! Thanks.

Any chance you know the bolt size for mounting to the stand?

 

[Justwondering]

BudW..
I'm thinking we need to do that futurama thing and put your head in a jar so we can learn from you for centuries to come ..

You know I mean that in the nicest possible way.

 

[BudW]

Smiles,
That either means someone wants me on shelf by the Nixon bobble head,
OR
Someone wants my head on a stick?

 

[BudW]

Any chance you know the bolt size for mounting to the stand?

I looked it up.
The bolts going through the outer edge of transmission housing into the block is Dodge part number 6023187 – which is 3/8”-16 (coarse) x 1-3/8” long.

In this case, get some 3/8”-16 bolts, which are about 3/8”-1/2” longer than your stand attachment, and you are set.

 

[shadango]

BudW..
I'm thinking we need to do that futurama thing and put your head in a jar so we can learn from you for centuries to come ..

View attachment 17020

You know I mean that in the nicest possible way.

 

[shadango]

Ok we got the engine out!!!! Went well...we just took our time.

Question.....is it ok to leave the torque convertor in the tranny while we have the egone out or should we pull it and store it??? I thought I read somewhere that leaving it on long term strEssex the front pump?

 

[BudW]

Great.

I’ve seen un-supported torque converter in transmissions for years on the shelf – without any ill effect.
Chrysler shipped the transmissions with converters in place for years that way, as well (not sure if still doing it though – not seen a Chrysler transmission crate in many a year).

Unless you live in earthquake area, you don’t need to do anything. If it may get bounced around any then you can get a piece of metal and bolt to keep it from falling out (which it won’t do on its own) or a clothes hanger.

Another important part is torque converter will only bolt to the flex plate one way, so this might be a good time to mark the converter and flex plate now (paint or perm marker works fine) to aid on assembly later (if you don’t mark it and if you rotate things, then you will thank me later).

Note: if you do remove the converter, you do risk making a mess, for converter should be full of fluid.
Be sure to cover converter hub and same with transmission pump to keep dirt/dust/bugs out of both.

Before reassembly – it might not be a bad idea to replace the front pump seal. While at it, feel the converter hub for any pitting or groves. The hub should be fine, but if not – report back before stabbing the engine in.

 

[shadango]

Well I went ahead and removed the tc.. covered and sealed everything up....a little mess but we had a pan handy.

We started deconstructing the engine.....

And we found this....broken ear on the block for the fuel pump mount bolt....threads are gone too.....can this be repaired when I take the engine in to be rebuilt?

 

[Justwondering]

How does something like that happen?
Is it age and vibration or was there something else causing the wear?

 

[BudW]

That’s odd.

Might there be any chance the fuel pump could have gotten damaged from failed engine mount and/or during engine mount replacement?

If someone stripped out the threads (earlier replacement or at factory) the stress on fuel pump on one bolt can and will break the aluminum casting – but generally there would be a good sized oil leak and not much fuel will get pumped.

The threads on block cam be repaired with a heli-coil – in most cases.
Sense engine will be out of car, this would be the time to do it (so metal shavings can get cleated out on both sides of engine.

A person will need to find out what size the fuel pump bolt is, then go to hardware store (or auto parts store) to get a Heli-coil repair kit.

 

[shadango]

That’s odd.

Might there be any chance the fuel pump could have gotten damaged from failed engine mount and/or during engine mount replacement?

If someone stripped out the threads (earlier replacement or at factory) the stress on fuel pump on one bolt can and will break the aluminum casting – but generally there would be a good sized oil leak and not much fuel will get pumped.

The threads on block cam be repaired with a heli-coil – in most cases.
Sense engine will be out of car, this would be the time to do it (so metal shavings can get cleated out on both sides of engine.

A person will need to find out what size the fuel pump bolt is, then go to hardware store (or auto parts store) to get a Heli-coil repair kit.

We never pulled the fuel pump.....we avoided it....

I have helicpiled stuff before but I always had a full hole to work with.....

Can the ear be fixed during block work? And the key part is ECONOMICALLY?

 

[BudW]

I can’t answer that.

Cast Iron doesn’t weld very well, but one may be able to bronze/braise the hole up, file smooth then drill-tap hole.

Maybe drill/tap to next size bigger hole and use Allen head bolt?

Welding is a topic I don’t know a thing about.

If this only problem with block, and if the original block, it may be worth fixing to keep the car “numbers matching”. The VIN is stamped on side of engine (and transmission) – which is part of a numbers matching vehicle.

 

[shadango]

I spoke to the machine shop and he is confident he can either weld and rethread a hole or perhaps weld in a stud.

Crossing fingers.

 

[BudW]

Thumbs up!

 

[shadango]

Gonna take another look at the block tonight and see if its original etc....not that it matters but it would be nice....I think it is.....

The oil pump that was on it is cast iron and someone said originals were aluminum. ..so I guess that bolsters my vibe that someone replaced it once....

 

[BudW]

Not a /6 expert but I thought those oil pumps were iron.

I don’t recall seeing an aluminum oil pump on any Chrysler vehicle, until more recent version of current engines.

Was there any blue (or black) paint on the oil pump?

 

[shadango]

Not a /6 expert but I thought those oil pumps were iron.

I don’t recall seeing an aluminum oil pump on any Chrysler vehicle, until more recent version of current engines.

Was there any blue (or black) paint on the oil pump?

I don't recall but can look.....the paint markings would indicate original right?

 

[shadango]

Dropping the engine parts off tomorrow at the machine shop!

We are taking pretty much the long block plus oil pan, timing cover and valve cover, rocker arms/rockers, shaft and its bolts.....new oil pump....will be bought a Flowkooler water pump....timing set, lifters and reground cam will be coming from oregon camshaft......having the damper redone by damper doctor....gonna have the machine shop provide a new oil pickup (ours sounds like a maraca) and all seals, gaskets, valves as needed....will I want them to replace the pushrods and head bolts as well? I am sending those along just in case....

And am debating whether to have them resurface the intake/exhaust manifold....and if so should I pull it apart for them or leave it together??

Gonna havet hem repair the fuelp pump mounting hole so taking along the old fuel pump and bolts.....

Gonna ask for head/deck to be milled to reach a compression ration of between 8.4 and 9 per the cam specs....I know the block will be hot tanked.....some porting and polishing and maybe larger valves....not sure what else to ask for really? Is "magnafluxing" a standard to do item or an option? I know its to find cracks etc....does it make sense to do it? How much does that step typically cost?

The guy at the shop did say that he would need to go over everything before he can come up with the solid quote/bid which makes sense....i am hoping that my having the engine already torn down will help speed that up....

Never done this before so I am hoping I have everything together they will need...

 

[BudW]

I don’t know about prices (which vary from location to location, anyway) but if you are building an engine to last, it doesn’t hurt to magnaflux.
What magnafluxing is is placing a moveable electromagnet on block or heads (steel or cast iron) then tossing iron shavings on it. If there is a crack, it will show up via the iron shavings (the crack shows up big time). If something is cracked, you will want to get it fixed before going back together (which makes sense).

Magnafluxing the exhaust manifold is a good idea as well.

Before considering milling the intake and/or exhaust manifolds – first clean the gasket surface, then lay a straight edge on the entire surface. They make an official tool for this purpose, but an iron pipe or similar item will work for this issue. With a flashlight on other side of your straightedge, check for light underneath the edge and manifold surfaces. If any is present, then look to see if it is all intake or all Exhaust.
If so, then loosening the bolts between the two manifolds and retightening (easer to do on cylinder head) will fix that problem.
If you still have an uneven edge on all five intake or six exhaust flanges, then I would consider milling them a smidge.

No reason you can’t reuse your existing fasteners – unless old ones are missing or rusty (ie: exhaust).
If mine, I might consider new head bolts, maybe (or maybe I might reuse them).

Before reassembly, make sure you run a tap or thread chaser into each hole then blow out with canned air or compressed air. Also take a cotton swab and make sure no oil or other liquid is in bolt holes.

Scrubbing the cylinder bores (if bored or honed) really well is also a good idea, using soap, water and a lot of elbow grease. Coat with engine oil after cleaning.

Until you get engine capped off, try to keep as much dust out of the engine.

On timing cover, valve cover and oil pan - take a ball-peen hammer and an anvil (or something) and tap on surface to make sure the gasket surfaces are straight (at the bolt holes). A bit of patience and a couple of hours to make sure the “tin ware” is straight, will prevent a lot of oil leaks.

On same note: do not over-tighten the tin ware bolts.
They generally tightened in inch-pounds, not in foot-pounds.

Make note of what to take to machine shop and have a check list of what to pick back up from them. I would say 9 times out of 10, they will be missing something important - and a check list will be a big aid.