Rear Spoiler Mounting

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

Thanks for the offer Eric,
I have a few also.

I see what hes saying about the hole in those being screw size.
Thats the stuff they use on trim, I wouldn't trust it on a spoiler doing 80.
--- Post updated ---
This arrived today

 

[Aspen500]

Yes, what you pictured is what I meant. I used bolts but I suppose studs screwed into the u-nuts and then nuts underneath would work even better. Easier to align and keep it in place if you're working alone.

Where did you get your scoop from? I got one from Year One and was not impressed with the quality at all. I darn near sent it back. A couple dozen hours of work and it's OK now though.

 

[Darth-Car]

What a groovy little air grabber that is!

 

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

Aspen 500, I didn't want to give you a link until I see what these guys are going to do.
They are sending me a return shipping label.
The assured me they would hand pick one that is flat all the way around.
They wanted to refund my money or give me 30.00 back to have mine fixed.
My reply was that I wanted one like the one in the picture,
and that I didn't know of any body shop that would do anything for 30.00,LOL.

The more I look at it the more mistakes I see.
It looks like it was a damaged from shipping, fixed and shipped back out.

I set it on the hood and it has high centers on the side,
which could be evened out.
The front however was trimmed too far in and would need built back up.
The snorkels are not uniform either.

I do like how it looks on the hood,
it brings this plain jane flat hood to life.

 

[Aspen500]

Yours is perfect compared to what I was sent. I'll have to see if the pics of it still exists somewhere on a disc. (Were on the old computer and it crashed)
Even an original scoop won't fit the hood perfectly. A Duster and Aspen have different contours. Then again, I wonder how good the original scoops were made(?).
Mine must have been made by a different vendor. The "snorkels" were 2 pieces screwed together and "glued" with kitty hair and cracked already when it arrived. I took it apart and bonded it with the proper fiberglass bonding adhesive and then did hours and hours of work on the rest of it to get the waves out, make it fit the hood, even up the snorkles...................In hind sight I should have just sent it back and paid the $600 for the NOS one I was offered, but it came out good in the end. Think it was $225 to the door and for that price I wasn't expecting bolt on perfection but did expect at least half ways decent.

 

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

Yeah, The outside was very nice and smooth.
Even if the Dart hood is contoured different, wouldn't it be higher on the ends and low in the center,
to go with the contour?
I don't mind a little sanding to make it flush on the mounting areas,
But the front on this one was trimmed way too far in.
Mine was only 165.00 shipped.

If I was sent what was pictured, there would have never been an issue.
I have never been a fan of Bate & Switch,LOL.

Original and NOS snorkel scoops have gone to insane prices.
I would just stay with a flat hood rather then spend that.

 

[Aspen500]

Mine didn't look like the pic on the Year One site either. Of course, you can never expect a fiberglass part to be perfect. Some warping will occur, sometimes way after it's made. Ever see a body shop making Genuine GM Parts Corvette replacement panel fit to repair accident damage? I mean, it's better than these scoops but far from a just bond it on a shoot the paint deal. There's a reason why some body shops just flat out don't deal with 'Vette's.
Your right, the sides of the scoop would curve up in the center somewhat, not the other way around like yours is (mine was about the same way).
Reason I went with the Year One part is, on past cars (that I wish I could have hung onto) I used parts from them and they were all perfect. The hood pins and '68 side markers on my car (along with a couple other parts adapted from non F-body) came from them and the quality was far better than the originals ever were when the cars were built. I was disappointed with the scoop. I did call and make them aware of it and emailed them some pics and they offered to refund my money including shipping charges both ways, in their defense. As I said though, figured with some work it would be OK and it was in the end. Wanted them to check into the vendor that makes them a little closer.

 

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

How far down from the hood vents did you place your scoop?

In this Aspen pic, it looks like they mounted it right up to the vents.

IMO, Thats too far back, and may run into a mounting problem because of the inner brace.
Would you mind snapping a pic of the back of your scoop by the vents?

 

[Aspen500]

Thought I posted one already but realized that was on Aspen and Volare on the same subject.
I positioned the scoop so the distance between the rear of the hood and vent slots is about the same as the vent slots to the scoop. It's the only place it looked right (to my eye anyways).

 

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

Looks Good and Functional too.
What would you say is the distance from the vents 2" ?
Did your scoop come with that material between the scoop and hood ?

Thanks for the Pics and Help!

 

[Aspen500]

It's about that from the vents. From the back of the hood it's 7 1/2" to the scoop.
I glued fender welting to the bottom of the scoop. Prevents paint damage, squeaking and hides minor fitment gaps and it gives a more finished look. Got it from Speedway Motors. The "flap" has to be trimmed down and wedge cut at the corners and then super glue a few inches, let it dry, glue a few more inches..........Cut the hole roughly 1/4" smaller than that center opening in the inner panel and then formed a small lip with hammer and dolly for stiffening and also (like the welting) to give a more finished look.

This is the stuff:

Fender Welting

 

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

Thanks for the link.
--- Post updated ---
Received the return shipping label today,
and it was shipped back today.

We will see what the next one looks like.

 

[David Clark]

Can I hijack the thread here for a minute or two?? It's related to the Spoiler I can assure you.

When we bought our RT Aspen, it had the 3 Piece spoiler on the back of it. BARELY. And while I was steering the thing onto the tow dolly and the Dumb ass I bought it from was PUSHING the Car from the rear, he decided he would push it using the spoiler, I really thought he had more sense than that, and 5 seconds later, CRACK. All the Mounting Brackets for it just broke off. Now I've seen the Prices on the Replacement ones (crapped my pants) and was wondering as I have heard, Can those mounts be REPAIRED on the Original Spoiler??Is here a way to do that on the Original one. The Two Side pieces are mostly intact and stable but the center piece now has no mounting studs/screws on it. UGH.

 

[Aspen500]

Sure, anything can be repaired. Depends on what you mean by broken as to how to fix it though. Any pics of the damage?

 

[80 Lebaron Coupe]

Can I hijack the thread here for a minute or two?? It's related to the Spoiler I can assure you.

When we bought our RT Aspen, it had the 3 Piece spoiler on the back of it. BARELY. And while I was steering the thing onto the tow dolly and the Dumb ass I bought it from was PUSHING the Car from the rear, he decided he would push it using the spoiler, I really thought he had more sense than that, and 5 seconds later, CRACK. All the Mounting Brackets for it just broke off. Now I've seen the Prices on the Replacement ones (crapped my pants) and was wondering as I have heard, Can those mounts be REPAIRED on the Original Spoiler??Is here a way to do that on the Original one. The Two Side pieces are mostly intact and stable but the center piece now has no mounting studs/screws on it. UGH.

David, Your hijack is more then welcome.
I learn from everyones situations.
Yeah, There are people with no clue on how to push a vehicle by hand.
I had a guy help push my Dodge truck off my trailer and he pushed in on the grill and cracked it, Duh!
And another guy was pushing on my tail lights tiill I brought it to his attention,
Then acted like he was mad at me pointing out the fact that you don't push vehicles on the plastic parts.

 

[David Clark]

Sure, anything can be repaired. Depends on what you mean by broken as to how to fix it though. Any pics of the damage?

I'll get pics of it tomorrow, got it stowed away in one of my Ramchargers right now to keep it from getting any more damage on it LOL.
--- Post updated ---
Ok here are the pics of the center piece on the spoiler that dumb dumb broke off. Really Brittle plastic so probably wouldn't have lasted the trip home anyway. I really don't see a way this can be fixed. Does anyone else have any idea's???

 

[Aspen500]

I didn't realize the 3 pc mounted so different from the one piece. It could still be fixed though. I'm at work right now and can't remember exactly what the stuff is I used to fix my grille (even NOS is broken and very brittle). Also used it to repair my scoop. When I get home I'll check. It worked very well and should work for the spoiler. May need to also add some reinforcing pieces along with the repair adhesive.

 

[David Clark]

Thanks, Would appreciate that, I can't afford to drop 400 plus for another one and would prefer to fix this one. It has a small chunk out of it too that I am hoping I can fix with some fiberglass maybe. UGH.

 

[Aspen500]

The stuff I used is made by Evercoat. Got it from Eastwood but I'll be darned if I can't find it on their site. Here's a pic of what the tube looks like. It's a 2 part epoxy for plastic repair. I'd recommend getting a 22:1 ratio caulk gun also (like the one in the pic) . A regular one will work but the high ratio one makes it a LOT easier.
Should work to glue the pieces back together and then after it cures, add a few more layers of epoxy to build it up. Works best if you scuff with 80 grit to give it some tooth.
The chunk missing could be fixed if you find some similar plastic and then even out the hole and make a patch to fit flush. Then glue it in with the epoxy and add another layer to the backside. The "money side" you can use regular filler to smooth it out. The epoxy is sandable but I found it still needs a skim coat of filler to finish it off.
Couple pics of where I fixed the grille. Three years and so far, so good. Never prettied it up because I hate to screw with it if I don't have to. It's so brittle I'm afraid I'll hit a fly on the highway and take a chunk out of it, seriously.

 

[David Clark]

Thanks for the Info, doesn't look like to bad of a product and pretty easy to Manipulate maybe. Thanks again for the info, when I get started on it I'll take progress pics.