Assuming you have the 7.25” with 3” tubes, I’d try to grab a set (can find used for cheap sometimes) of the A,B,C,E-body shock plates and grab some new shocks and ditch the ISO all together. The shocks available on the market for the A,B,C,E-body style plates offer a lot better ride and handling to the limited options for the stock style plates and would be an easy replacement. Less parts all together technically. Deleting the rear ISO also lifts the rear end a little bit on its own.Yeah I figured this was done for. Any recommendations on an easy ISO replacement?
Yeah it's the crappy 7 1/4. Now I'm beginning to wonder if it would be more cost and time effective to hunt down an 8 1/4, drive shaft, and springs out of a 5th ave. It's like the further I get into this thing, the more annoying it gets. My only concern is my goal for an 8 hr road trip this summer with it. Otherwise it's a goof off car I drive for fun.Assuming you have the 7.25” with 3” tubes, I’d try to grab a set (can find used for cheap sometimes) of the A,B,C,E-body shock plates and grab some new shocks and ditch the ISO all together. The shocks available on the market for the A,B,C,E-body style plates offer a lot better ride and handling to the limited options for the stock style plates and would be an easy replacement. Less parts all together technically. Deleting the rear ISO also lifts the rear end a little bit on its own.
I couldn’t tell you, if or who offers ISO bushings and plates, I never looked into it myself but, I think I’ve seen people say they’ve rebuilt theirs so, there maybe a factory type option available, idk about it though.
Poly ISO spring pads are readily available. Not as solid as ISO delete but it's darn close. New springs also get rid of the stupid oval front hanger bushing in favor of standard round ones.Assuming you have the 7.25” with 3” tubes, I’d try to grab a set (can find used for cheap sometimes) of the A,B,C,E-body shock plates and grab some new shocks and ditch the ISO all together. The shocks available on the market for the A,B,C,E-body style plates offer a lot better ride and handling to the limited options for the stock style plates and would be an easy replacement. Less parts all together technically. Deleting the rear ISO also lifts the rear end a little bit on its own.
I couldn’t tell you, if or who offers ISO bushings and plates, I never looked into it myself but, I think I’ve seen people say they’ve rebuilt theirs so, there maybe a factory type option available, idk about it though.
Christ. Well there goes that idea for the short term.Maybe more cost time effective to grab an 8.8 out of a mustang or even look for a 68-70 B-body rear 8.25” or 9.25”. The M-body 8.25” are hard to come by; particularly with all the hardware and springs, ect…for how much I spent on a 8.25”, shipping, rebuilding it, ect…I could have built a super stout 9” or 9.25” that could live behind about anything.
Stupid question, can I get these 78-755 Leaf Spring AssemblyPoly ISO spring pads are readily available. Not as solid as ISO delete but it's darn close. New springs also get rid of the stupid oval front hanger bushing in favor of standard round ones.
Well there you go. Some 1/4” flat stock and send it.All you need to run 5 leaf springs on the 4 leaf ISO setup are some spacers made out of flat stock. It's not difficult at all. I did this on my car for a couple years before I ditched the ISO setup altogether.
5 leaf works with what's there but you need to use a spacer on the clamp that wraps around the springs.
My brain isn't catching on by what you guys mean by spacers. My brain is looking at the set up and thinking I would need longer U bolts to run with an extra leaf. Is there some kind of differece in the widths of the springs between 4 and 5 spring leaf set ups?All you need to run 5 leaf springs on the 4 leaf ISO setup are some spacers made out of flat stock. It's not difficult at all. I did this on my car for a couple years before I ditched the ISO setup altogether.