Wanted E-58 Motor

[dch-65]

I want to build a F/PS 1977 Dodge Aspen SE 2 dr to run in IHRA.

Here is what I’m looking for and hopefully someone here can help me
This is the E-58 option
Best case would be finding a 360 motor (160HP 4bbl) and transmission from any 1977 through 1978 . It wouldn’t have to be out of an “F” body but just must be in that time frame. I’m looking for an unaltered motor because all the casting numbers have to be from that time frame.
A complete block and transmission (904,998 or 999) would be ideal but at least these are the parts I need that I haven’t been able to find locally. Below are the ONLY casting numbers that are legal for the set up I want to work on. All original equipment 360 out of any “F” body in the above years would have these castings.

•Carburetor # 9076; 9093; 9004 or 9015
•Intake # 4035080; 4100340; 4173915 or 3830945
•Heads # 4027596; 4071051; 4448308; 4772576 or 4323302
Thanks
Dave

 

[greymouser7]

I might have the block..? It would be buried in the garage though. What numbers should I find on the block that would verify the date of the motor?

and I have small block 727's but a 904 would be better for you.

I got one of those too (1974-rebuilt) with access to crates from the shipyard and I get my mail through commercial post office box that gives me discounts on shipping.

I also have an awesome cast iron 4bl intake manifold. I'll have to check on that intake on Sunday.

I find it hard to believe that the numbers of the block have to verify to race in that class.

Why would they not let you run any LA 360 in your competition? 1970-73or74 blocks are best. That's what I would run.
I might see why a bunch of whining-wieners whom might drive chevy or mustang give you crap for running a magnum, but there should not be any reason to complain.

What brand of carburetor are those numbers? Holley? Thermoquads and carters are what I thought they put on old Mopars. Those can be modified to flow past 800 and 1000cfm IAW the guys over on Forabodiesonly.com/mopar

Do they tear down your motor if you win? What's your max bore, etc.?

 

[dch-65]

I might have the block..? It would be buried in the garage though. What numbers should I find on the block that would verify the date of the motor?

and I have small block 727's but a 904 would be better for you.

I got one of those too (1974-rebuilt) with access to crates from the shipyard and I get my mail through commercial post office box that gives me discounts on shipping.

I also have an awesome cast iron 4bl intake manifold. I'll have to check on that intake on Sunday.

I find it hard to believe that the numbers of the block have to verify to race in that class.

Why would they not let you run any LA 360 in your competition? 1970-73or74 blocks are best. That's what I would run.
I might see why a bunch of whining-wieners whom might drive chevy or mustang give you crap for running a magnum, but there should not be any reason to complain.

What brand of carburetor are those numbers? Holley? Thermoquads and carters are what I thought they put on old Mopars. Those can be modified to flow past 800 and 1000cfm IAW the guys over on Forabodiesonly.com/mopar

Do they tear down your motor if you win? What's your max bore, etc.?

The rules are very tight in Pure Stock and the reason is they are trying to keep using only OEM stock parts for cost reasons.
The short block can be any "LA" short block with max overbore of .070. I probably would not feel confortable with the condition of the block if I had to exceed .030.
Carburetor is a Thermoquad it has 1.50 primaries and 2.25 secondaries and yes I am limited to the numbers listed
Heads and intake are limited to the casting numbers listed and they must remain unaltered except for valve job and cc'ing the head so you can mill the head to get to factory blueprint specs but you CANNOT touch the ports or the chambers.
I listed the years that I was sure would be legal but you can mix and match as necessary so long as all your parts have the right casting numbers.
The goal is to be an affordable entry level class that allows a minimum number of alterations to keep costs down.
904 is probably the way I want to go with the transmission.

The class has a 13.75 index in the quarter which I think is very doable with this combination. My car has run in the high 12's with a stroked 318street tires and 3:55 gears. I don't think a stock will produce the same HP as my 318(425HP) but I hope it can get in the 300 to 350 range and that should be enough with a better convertor, 4:56 gears and sticky tires to go well below that index.
Hope this helps and I hope you have some parts tucked away that can help me in my search.

Thanks
Dave

 

[dch-65]

I might have the block..? It would be buried in the garage though. What numbers should I find on the block that would verify the date of the motor?

and I have small block 727's but a 904 would be better for you.

I got one of those too (1974-rebuilt) with access to crates from the shipyard and I get my mail through commercial post office box that gives me discounts on shipping.

I also have an awesome cast iron 4bl intake manifold. I'll have to check on that intake on Sunday.

I find it hard to believe that the numbers of the block have to verify to race in that class.

Why would they not let you run any LA 360 in your competition? 1970-73or74 blocks are best. That's what I would run.
I might see why a bunch of whining-wieners whom might drive chevy or mustang give you crap for running a magnum, but there should not be any reason to complain.

What brand of carburetor are those numbers? Holley? Thermoquads and carters are what I thought they put on old Mopars. Those can be modified to flow past 800 and 1000cfm IAW the guys over on Forabodiesonly.com/mopar

Do they tear down your motor if you win? What's your max bore, etc.?

Any updates on your weekend search?
Thanks
Dave

 

[NoCar340]

The factory trans would be a 727, though... how strict is the rule there? The 904 would be faster with the low first gear out of an A99x. You definitely do not want a lockup transmission. They go bang very easily (well, the converters do).

Depending on your hurry, I may be able to drum up everything at once. It would have to wait until the spring thaw, but one of the yards I visit has a complete 1978 Aspen (SE I think?) 4-door with the E58 engine. The downside? You might have to buy the whole freakin' car. The guy that owns it says it's "too nice and too rare" to sell so much as the air-cleaner wingnut off the damned thing. It's pretty damned rust-free, and he swears he drove it to where it's parked.

The smart shopper on this build will look for early 596 heads, such as those used on '73 340s and '73-'75 360s (regardless of carburetion on the 360s). They don't have the "humps" in the exhaust ports for air injection. Later heads with the same casting number have the humps and in many cases the ports. Since "Pure Stock" doesn't allow for porting, get the best heads from the get go. I may be able to locate those as well once spring arrives. As far as the carb goes, I'll make a phone call. All you really need is the baseplate, since that's the only location of the number stamping, but a close friend of mine maintains a "Big Box o' ThermoQuads" and I would almost bet he has one of the numbers you listed, probably in a complete carb. I thought I had one, but it turned out to be from a non-ESA truck, 9182S.

A 360 block is a 360 block; there's no difference between the early blocks and the later ones. There is a commonly-repeated myth that the ones cast through mid '73 (some say later) used 340 water jacket cores, resulting in thicker, stiffer cylinder walls. No one has ever found such a block with sonic testing, X-rays, or any other means because they simply do not exist. The 360 had its own water-jacket cores from the start by necessity due to its different bottom end. I've personally windowed both a '72 360 and a '73 340 and I can assure you, they are not the same water jacket. Metallurgically speaking, the formerly-scorned mid-'70s blocks have been found to actually be equal to, if not better than, the early ones. The metallurgy thing started with the B/RB crowd and trickled its way to the small blocks.

 

[dch-65]

The factory trans would be a 727, though... how strict is the rule there? The 904 would be faster with the low first gear out of an A99x. You definitely do not want a lockup transmission. They go bang very easily (well, the converters do).

Depending on your hurry, I may be able to drum up everything at once. It would have to wait until the spring thaw, but one of the yards I visit has a complete 1978 Aspen (SE I think?) 4-door with the E58 engine. The downside? You might have to buy the whole freakin' car. The guy that owns it says it's "too nice and too rare" to sell so much as the air-cleaner wingnut off the damned thing. It's pretty damned rust-free, and he swears he drove it to where it's parked.

The smart shopper on this build will look for early 596 heads, such as those used on '73 340s and '73-'75 360s (regardless of carburetion on the 360s). They don't have the "humps" in the exhaust ports for air injection. Later heads with the same casting number have the humps and in many cases the ports. Since "Pure Stock" doesn't allow for porting, get the best heads from the get go. I may be able to locate those as well once spring arrives. As far as the carb goes, I'll make a phone call. All you really need is the baseplate, since that's the only location of the number stamping, but a close friend of mine maintains a "Big Box o' ThermoQuads" and I would almost bet he has one of the numbers you listed, probably in a complete carb. I thought I had one, but it turned out to be from a non-ESA truck, 9182S.

A 360 block is a 360 block; there's no difference between the early blocks and the later ones. There is a commonly-repeated myth that the ones cast through mid '73 (some say later) used 340 water jacket cores, resulting in thicker, stiffer cylinder walls. No one has ever found such a block with sonic testing, X-rays, or any other means because they simply do not exist. The 360 had its own water-jacket cores from the start by necessity due to its different bottom end. I've personally windowed both a '72 360 and a '73 340 and I can assure you, they are not the same water jacket. Metallurgically speaking, the formerly-scorned mid-'70s blocks have been found to actually be equal to, if not better than, the early ones. The metallurgy thing started with the B/RB crowd and trickled its way to the small blocks.

Thanks for all the info.
First they will allow a 904 transmission or any version that was install in the 77 model.
Second I'm not in a hurry , I just want to get the right stuff. I see this as taking two years so I can go to the races with my grandson.
Heads I have heard that 596 were better than the 015 heads so thanks for more info about why they are better.
Also good news on the block

Thanks again
Dave

 

[dch-65]

Thanks for all the info.
First they will allow a 904 transmission or any version that was install in the 77 model.
Second I'm not in a hurry , I just want to get the right stuff. I see this as taking two years so I can go to the races with my grandson.
Heads I have heard that 596 were better than the 015 heads so thanks for more info about why they are better.
Also good news on the block

Thanks again
Dave

Found the motor and trans I was looking for
Thanks to all that searched for me
Dave