Pair of main leifs needed

[Nuttyprof]

I need a pair of main leafs for an '80 Volare wagon. The front eye has rolled down till the leaf almost lines up with the top of the front eye. I am also converting away from the "isopad" setup. I have the plates and u-bolts but still need the center bolts with the right head size. I have an idea on the bolt but if someone knew where to get the right bolts for that job and the part numbers that would be fantastic.

Thank you for all your help!

 

[BudW]

One source is:
http://billrolikenterprises.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1944361%2DP (a set of 4 parts)
But really, any leaf spring shop will sell them

The factory part number for bolt (no nut) is 3643558 – which might still be available from Chrysler, for $11 MSRP (each bolt).

I need to see some pictures of your front bushing/leaf – for I’m not sure what you are trying to say, exactly. I do know the front bushing is oval shaped
BudW

 

[F body Deconstructor Jim]

I have some used rear leafsprings if you want to go that route.

 

[Nuttyprof]

how much part and shipping to 68467?

 

[Nuttyprof]

One source is:
http://billrolikenterprises.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1944361%2DP (a set of 4 parts)
But really, any leaf spring shop will sell them

The factory part number for bolt (no nut) is 3643558 – which might still be available from Chrysler, for $11 MSRP (each bolt).

I need to see some pictures of your front bushing/leaf – for I’m not sure what you are trying to say, exactly. I do know the front bushing is oval shaped
BudW

The last 6"-8" are bowed to the point that if you put a straight edge on top of the main leaf 12" back it would go over the eye on the end of the leaf.

The bolt I'm looking for would have a head that properly keys into the hole in the spring perch that the rubber of the isopad keyed into, so it needs a much larger head than normal. the bolts you linked to are either for the isopad and so are too long in the head and too small in diameter or are for the nonisopad spring perch and so would just be to small in diameter. Thanks for the link though.

Dave

 

[BudW]

You are correct.
The Iso-clamp leaf spring holes are larger and require a larger bolt head for that system.
With that said, I did look up the wrong part number for you earlier, Chrysler part # 3643558, from my 77 parts book (for a ’77 F/M body) - my bad.

I just now looked in a ’72 parts book and the (only) non Iso-clamp center spring bolt is 1944361 (which ironically is the same part number that Bill Rolik Enterprises list).
The '72 Iso-clamp center bolt part numbers are 3643558 (standard), 3643579 (police/extreme duty)

The link I provided for did not provide a year range or body style – but most of what they sell is for 60’s and early 70’s A, B, C and E-bodies (before Iso-clamp).
Bill Rolik Enterprises uses the exact fasteners the factory got their fasteners from.

These pictures were taken a few minutes ago, from my 40k mile, pretty much 100% original ’77 wagon. The car has short tires one it (but can’t tell due to the shadows) – which are about 1½” shorter than OE size are (195/60R14 – I think) – so car sits about ¾” lower than it should be.
They came with car and I’m cheap and trying to wear them out before getting the correct size tires reinstalled.

This car does have the optional 5-leaf leaf springs for station wagons (some wagons came with 4-leaf’s).

In-my opinion, the ride height is not bad for a 40 year old car – but springs will be re-arched in next year or two.

The picture does show a “Figure S” shape to the leaf spring – due to weight and sagging, but not due to anything being bent or broke. Just normal sag from age.

A spring shop can get that back to where it needs to be in no time (but most likely I will re-arch them, myself).

a closeup

BudW

 

[Aspen500]

You will need to make the hole on the axle spring perch smaller. There are no center bolts with a head big enough to fit in the iso-clamp size centering hole. You'll need to weld the large holes up and drill for a regular center bolt (if you didn't know this, I may have misunderstood your post ).

 

[BudW]

I “think” he has older shock plates and he needs the older (size) center bolt(s) to use with the existing leaf springs (to get rid of the Iso-Clamp system).

After re-reading the post, I’m not exactly sure . . . now.
BudW

 

[Nuttyprof]

I was hoping they made center bolts with heads big enough to fill the hole in the isoclamp perches. I guess I'll have to come up with a filler to reduce the hole size.
Bud W. nice looking car! The springs on my car have much more reverse curve behind the eye than yours. How are you planning to rearch your own springs?

 

[CM360]

Calvert Racing uses a socket bolt for their mono leaf spring. Fits the standard perch hole. Just finished the swap today.

 

[Nuttyprof]

Calvert Racing uses a socket bolt for their mono leaf spring. Fits the standard perch hole. Just finished the swap today.

I tried looking up Calvert Racing and didn't get anything to do with leaf springs, do you have a link?

 

[F body Deconstructor Jim]

how much part and shipping to 68467?

I'll pull a set and get weight/shipping info for you.
did you want just the main leaf?

 

[Nuttyprof]

Just need the main leafs but the rest could come in handy. Both of my spring packs have sagged badly mostly out near the front eye.. Thank you.

 

[BudW]

Do a Google search for re-arch leaf springs. Most of what you will find will be for Jeep and 4*4 pickups – but concept is the same.

There is two different “views” for re-arching springs. One is to get back to what you had and other is primary for 4*4’s is to get your pickups higher (so you need a ladder to get into ‘em).
The procedure is the same.

YouTube videos explain it better than I can.

What I generally do is put a “loose” leaf spring assembly on concrete floor. Take some chalk and mark outline (top side works better) on the floor. Dissemble the spring (so getting new pads and clamps also helps), then use a press to bend the leaf every 4 inches or so. You have to press it about twice as far as the bend you are making – for the “spring steel” will spring back about halfway.

Take leaf back to floor chalk outline to check your progress. You will want to add about 2-3 inches from your outline. It takes a bit to get going, but once you get going, it goes pretty quick.
If you don’t have a press or know a friend with one – then just take your springs to a spring shop. They can re-arch them in no time.

I might recommend getting a set of 5-leaf springs, if you can. Then get those re-arched (to remove the 40-year old sag) then toss them on the car – that way there will be minimal down time with the car.

Most likely, with 40 year old parts, getting a pair of front bushings pressed in, might not be a bad idea. The rear shackle bushings are easy to replace.

If you are doing away with the Iso-clamps, I also recommend getting some studs (cut bolts, etc.) and push them into the bushing holes to firm up the front bushing, before re-attaching to the car.
BudW

 

[Nuttyprof]

I'll pull a set and get weight/shipping info for you.
did you want just the main leaf?

Have you had a chance to get a quote? If shipping isn't crazy I'd get the whole spring packs.

 

[Deleted member 1959]

Hi Guys

Finally got the car up and running and have been taking trips around the area. Nice and quiet ride
It was then I noticed a slight "slant" to the right. I got the car on a level surface and sure enough it seems to sag on the rear passengers´ side about 15mm measured from the tyre top the top of the wheel arch. I can also see my springs have the same S-shape as BudW described.
I then found this thread about leaf springs and called a specialist who said they could re-arch them for a reasonable price. I have already bought new shocks and bushings for when they come back.
Getting them off the car seems straight forward, except you have to unbolt a bit more than the Haynes manual says.
It says it should be possible to push out the rear shackles just by taking off the nuts - not possible since the fuel tank is in the way on L side and the exhaust on R side. The only way I can see this work is to unbolt the upper part of the shackle from the subframe - is this normally the way to go ?
The front mount is a bit the same: the nut can come off, but you can´t push the bolt all the way out since the subframe is in the way. Is the solution to remove the 4 nuts that holds the front mount plate in place and take it all out this way ?
Any other Tips & Tricks on the subject is greatly appreciated

 

[BudW]

Before doing anything, it might help to purchase an SAE thread chaser/cleaner (which cleans threads – and not make new threads) set and clean the existing threads, first. The rear shackle threads fare worse for rust than the front spring hanger threads do, it seems.
Do the same for the Differential U-bolts.
Also to use some penetrating fluid (a couple of times), as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-Thread-Chaser-Cleaner-Steel-Includes-Storage-Case-Each-/391720415101?epid=1284613092&hash=item5b345b2f7d:g:slsAAOSw~AVYutmN
Note: there is a bunch of brands, different design and styles, etc. Which one you use doesn’t matter much.

I don’t recommend using a tap and die set – for those are good for making new threads (only) – not for repairing or cleaning old threads.

When they assemble the car, the shackles are already attached to the spring and rear frame mount – so all installer does is bolt the rear frame mount to the car.

If you do not have 2½” (65mm) to either side (quarter panel or fuel tank) then you will need to unbolt the rear frame bracket from chassis. I do, recommend to loosen the shackle nuts before unbolting the rear frame bracket. Also I recommend using penetrating fluid on all fasteners and if possible, using thread chaser on the studs before removing the nuts (front rear, and for U-Bolts).

Note: Chrysler calls the differential U-bolts, “clips” for some reason.
BudW

 

[Deleted member 1959]

Hi Bud
Fortunately all the threads are in good condition and I have already loosened most of the nuts.
My main concern was the bolts that holds the shackles to the subframe. They are easily loosened but I did not know how they were attached inside the subframe. If something was to come loose in there I could not get to it.
I was also wondering: how do the garage know how much to bend the springs back ? Do they look it up in a table ?

 

[BudW]

The frame nuts are welded in place.
There is a small chance that those welded in nuts could break loose – but I have only seen it on really really rusty cars. If the other studs look good, then that shouldn’t be a problem (frame nuts breaking loose).

On spring “re-arching” amount.
Before anything is to car, measure a location on car rear of car to ground. Where – does not matter as long as you use the same location for later (like edge of rear bumper, or rear wheel trim by screw head, etc.)
Set the front suspension to correct ride height.
Then eyeball the car on level ground. You might want to get out your bumper jack and raise rear bumper up to get a level you are happy with.
Then re-measure at same location mentioned above, subtract the different numbers to get your magic number.

Then tell spring shop you want car to sit that much higher – and they will take care of the rest. They will put more arch into springs on purpose. There is a formula they use to get it correct (something like arch 3” if you want 2” higher – or something like that).
BudW

 

[Deleted member 1959]

Hi Bud
Got the springs off the car this morning without any problems. Have cleaned all the threads with a wirebrush and greased them.
Sure enough: The R side spring is depressed about 1 cm more when comparing heights along the L side. See picture. I am thinking to tell spring shop to set the L (good) side 2 cm higher and then make the R side match it.
Will this be ok for future use you think ?