Incandescents to LEDs

[The_Red_Baron]

Hello again,

I am trying to change my directional lights (front and rear) to LEDs, from incandescents. I changed the from turn signals, and they work. A little slow I think, but they work.

A day or so later, I tried to change the rear turn signals (double as brakes lights), but they started to flicker. In the car, the turn signal light in the dash blinks really slow, but the lights in the rear only flicker. At this point I had only changed out one. When I put the hazards on, the lights on the dash came on solid for a second or two, and then started to work. They did the same thing with the fronts, but they started working.

I'm wondering if a load equalizer would help, or if I need something else to help..

To clarify, I got these lights at O'Reilly's.

Any ideas on the subject?

 

[Aspen500]

You need to get an electronic flasher to make the LED's work. They don't draw enough amperage to make a mechanical flasher operate (works off a bi-metallic spring). The resistance makes the spring heat up and bend to open the circuit (light off), then cools and bends back to close the circuit (light on), lather, rinse, repeat.
A load resistor at each light would work also but, the electronic flasher is a lot easier.

Something like this one: United Pacific LED Flashers 90652

 

[Opticon77]

Note: My full set of newer 6 amp "Plasma" LED bulbs (plus the load of the original mini incandescent fender-top indicators) does seem to work fine with the old bi-metal flasher. No in-line resistors or electronic controllers needed.

 

[The_Red_Baron]

So, I just got the electronic flasher today. Decided to try to install it before work. I installed the blinker, without pulling out the incandescents in the rear lights. Blinkers worked, hazards worked.

I then tried to put LEDs in all four directional sockets. I could only get the hazards to work. Blinkers in the dash came on, but stayed solid and dim.

It was then suggested that I try switching the LEDs in the front out for the incandescents that we're in it before, and try putting LEDs in the rear, to see if it was a load issue.

I'm here to say that worked.

I don't think a polarity reverser will help, since the signal works.

I don't think I want to go splicing into the turn signal harness to add a load equalizer, even though the tail lights seem to be tampered with. I found wire nuts in the rear.

Any ideas on what I should do?

 

[shadango]

Is there just one flasher unit controlling both the hazards AND the signals or is there second somewhere I wonder?

 

[The_Red_Baron]

Is there just one flasher unit controlling both the hazards AND the signals or is there second somewhere I wonder?

I think there may be two. I may have replaced the hazards instead of the turn signals. There's a difference in sound between the two.

 

[shadango]

I think there may be two. I may have replaced the hazards instead of the turn signals. There's a difference in sound between the two.

Swap them and see what happens.

 

[The_Red_Baron]

While on break, instead if eating, I decided to tinker with the car. Turns out, the hazards and the t-sig are two different fuses. I had replaced the hazards today, that's why they worked the way they did.

So, naturally, I pulled the new fuse out and put it back into the t-sig slot. I put the LEDs in the tail lights, and gave the turn signals a shot.

Nothing. No lights came on. This, I assume, means it needs a polarity reverser.
I then tried the old hazards fuse in it's original spot, and it came on, but didn't blink.

This tells me the hazards also need a new switch.

So, i guess I have to order another switch, this time with a polarity reverser (for the t-sig), and leave the one I have in the hazards slot.

Another few days, and we should finally have a solution.

 

[Aspen500]

Make sure you get rid of the wire nuts on the rear t-light harness (the ones you mentioned) and make a proper splice. Wire nuts are for your house, not a car.