Recent content by AHBguru

Man, what a mess of responses. If you don't have lean Burn, run the 2280. Lots of parts still available, better accelerator pump, less finicky than the BBD (BBD were known for internal vacuum leaks over time). The 2280/6280 are considered clones of the BBD, but contain improvements on the much...

The TQ might give you decent mileage. The Quadrajet uses a little more fuel in my experience. Not a significant difference in town. On the road, with everything else being relatively equal, maybe 1-2 mpg less than the TQ. You can tune the QJet leaner, but it won't be happy. I never bothered...

I have a low-mileage (30,000 +/-) Jeep ZJ box taking up space at the bottom of my toolbox, for anyone who wants it. Basically the same thing the Borgeson chuck is.

Ehrenberg at Mopar Action once noted the GV unit is essentially cantilevered off the rear of the transmission. Not good. Find a good or rebuilt 42RH and bolt her in. Make sure to run an external cooler in series with the tank cooler, and use ATF+4 (mandatory). The 42RH is an A999 plus...

There was only 1 non-feedback Q-Jet used on cars, which were the export models from '85 and '86. Rochester carb number was 17085411. CFM on the QJet was a little bit under the small TQ, about 750 CFM. You'll probably have a hard time finding the 5411. I'd recommend considering a 17085408, or...

I put a 360 Magnum in an '86 Fury Pursuit about 20 years ago. You need the ZJ exhaust manifolds for clearance. I ran a new Edelbrock 1905 Q-Jet, and it was very happy with that. It already had the in-tank pump with the anti-vaporlock package, so converting it to a carb setup was pretty simple...

That's exactly where I was going with my comment. Very important to have everything you need, and since this would be more of a mutation than a factory swap, I 100% agree that the easiest way to do this is with F-body components. Still, there's probably enough unofficial interchange between...

Harnesses should be there. But, you need the circuit breaker to power everything, so grab that from the fuse block. Access to front bolt on passenger side is through a flap in the cat heat shield. As far as room, yes, remove rear seat and seat back. Place new rear seat in place, put new...

Fakebook marketplace is full of thousands of F/M/J "restomods", unfinished projects, and unhappy results. The closer you can keep it to OEM, the better. Sorry, just the way it is. Chrysler barely supported these cars (and the R-bodies) while they were still in production. The aftermarket has...

Yep. 318 Magnum, swap intakes, bolt her up and go. 360 Magnum, you need the specific weight on the torque converter and a 3/4" nut (or equivalent) spacer for the left engine mount. Swap the intake, away you go. For either Magnum, you have to use an electric fuel pump off a relay. Those...

The ELE was the same old 318 flat tappet block they used from 1980 and up. No provision for rollers. Only reason I can think of that they didn't switch to a roller block for the ELE was cost, but the only "cost" involved was less power, for what was - by then - an obsolete engine. The ELA/ELD...

ELE engine is a non-roller block. Period. Use the newer Chrysler intake, unless you go with a carb that has a divorced choke, like the TQ. You can try to do this without pulling the pan, but I've never done it that way. If you're doing that much work to it, pull the pan and replace all the...

If nothing lines up (and it won't, guaranteed), there's a helluva lot more to it than just "hanging" parts.

They aren't a good choice for street/daily driving. The squads - even the current Durango and upcoming Charger Pursuit - don't use poly. They used a really hard rubber, which offered a little bit of elasticity at the limit, vs poly, which generally doesn't.

Anything is possible with a torch and a welder, but the A and F/M/J are completely different architectures. Nothing would bolt up.