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passenger side went OK, bu the driver's side was a pain. very hard to get the adjuster end up, just didnt want to go. the bolts on the arm were way off. had to jack, pry, wedge pull to get one bolt in. then whoever designed these braces did a poor job. not only does it cover the lower ball joint...

that was fun the first time, so now that i realize that the nuts for the bar adjusters need to go up with it again, i dropped it and did it a second time. but i think the 3*c weather is effecting my thought processes, the nuts have to go a certain way. lucky all that you need to do is remove the...

there was so much tension under these new bars, that a jack was needed just to jam it up into the member.

have i mentioned that i hate this front suspension? i mean, i understand the corporate logic that went into it, but it is bad. the older A, B, C, E design was so much better. anyways... remember kids, when you order a swaybar end link kit, it is just for ONE side, not both. moving on, does...

track car. gonna see how fast an old pile of crap that was largely ignored can go.

are you using rubber or poly?

you are 100% correct. i was tired and not thinking.

i think the older ones, not sure, buddies have done them on cherokee's to get rid of the 8.25

get a 8.8 from an Explorer, disc brakes included in it, stronger, better gear ratios too

but removing the end piece was a huge mistake.. that poly bushing is under so much tension, that it press too hard and there is no way i'd be able to line up both holes on the bar and get it to work. i had to weld it back on and struggle installing the bushing

i never knew the end part could even come off. thinking this was awesome i proceed to fight and swear at the rubber. the thin shell came right off, the other one was welded to the bushing, which in turn was welded to the center. i drilled, pryed, cut. in the end i sliced the rubber in two places...

now this is not the rusted to nothing one i played with. started as a nice used bushing from Duke5A. thinking this one is nice it should be even easier than the last ones.......

got the other bar end finished, ready for restoring {paint} and installation

its a GM steering column with a dodge horn button

Depending on the front hangar you run, either E body or A body springs. unless you stick with the FMJ hangar, then its 24inch front segment

these car;s front suspensions are cool and totally terrible at the same time. the swaybars act as strut rods, yet they mount them on flexible mounts that deflect quite a bit. maybe making more of a solid mount would make it better?

no feeling like the feeling of grinding on $2000 because racecar. im sure that whatever paint i cover it with will totally not burn off after 2 laps. lucky that these wheels cover all the scars

at my sister's still. need to find time to run across and grab it. i only rebuilt the better one. just played with the trashed one while bored at work.

i also managed to install new wheel bearings. but of course that did not go as planned. i am tired for fighting, i will grind tomorrow

got the new box delivered. time to install it. almost the same size as the OEM, but 2.5 turns is so much better. WTF were they thinking 60 years ago the 4.5 was good. anyways, as a side note, i bought the wrong box. the one i got was a small sector box. trying to return it would end up costing...

now fully restored to like used condition

next was to get the old brackets installed. installed the bushing on the bar end, which is a pain in its self. then installed the brackets, bolted and welded.

two steps forward, trip, break my back and then three steps back. i managed to "restore' the bar end mounts. the one cleaned up nicely, the other was more of a fight. to clean the inside out and make fit, i used valve lapping compound and a wheel cylinder hone. after it was cleaned, there were...

wasnt the valve. the shaft end and the body were hitting everything. the box just too big any other way

you might be able to final Grand Cherokee (ZJ) manifolds, but there is an EGR port on the passenger side, that 96-up do not have. like others said, replacing the valve springs should just be standard. a more aggressive cam will just smash an old OEM valve spring from 45 years ago.