Search results for query: *

wasnt the valve. the shaft end and the body were hitting everything. the box just too big any other way

you might be able to final Grand Cherokee (ZJ) manifolds, but there is an EGR port on the passenger side, that 96-up do not have. like others said, replacing the valve springs should just be standard. a more aggressive cam will just smash an old OEM valve spring from 45 years ago.

so the box does come out. not the way you think. i removed the PS pump, driver's engine mount through box and jacked under the header until the transmission is in the tunnel. now there is enough room to carry it out the front with smashing your new rad

i don't know if anyone else does this, get some scrap corrugated cardboard and lay it on the ground. today is very cold and wet. but the plastic insulates so nice, wipes clean and actually cushions you. plus you never feel like kicking it down the driveway in frustration like a creeper

well i screwed up. with the Canadian economy dropping, i don't want to wait the the dollar sinks lower, so i accidental bought a Lares steering box. was supposed to arrive on monday, but now i got a notice "sorry your package is delayed" telling me coming saturday? sorry?? so i though the...

then i realized that the shocks need to go on before that ball joints are connected. feels good throwing away empty parts boxes, making the pile smaller

it's cold outside. but anyways, threw that arms and spindle in.

after 40 years, they are all leaking or about leak

once out, quick press in, then welded the braces. kinda nice doing it at work. had access to the exhaust system. using a welding hood to evacuate the smoke is so nice. wish i had it lying around. if it isnt too cold, gonna install everything except the bars this weekend.

time for alittle love for the lowers. needed to press in the balljoints before welding. i didn't want to, but someone poorly engineered them, once welded the press too would no longer fit.

the sleeves need to come off. kinda tight. i hit them with a hammer on a vise base to loosen the sleeve. then ran a screw driver into the split, then removed it. i would love to soak this side like the other in Evapo-rust, but my bucket is dead and i dont need to spend $150 on another bucket...

upped arm was along the same procedure. trim the bushing ends, inner and outer. drill the rubber, work it back and forth, remove the rubber, slide out the shaft

*** SEVERAL PRINCESS AUTO DRILL BITS WERE HARMED IN THE MAKING OF THESE POSTS, READER DISCRETION IS ADVISED*** fit i used a knife to circumcise the old bushing. then ran a bunch of drill bits through till the sleeve came loose. then clamped the sleeve in the vise and pull out the sleeve. then...

you know why they call it "Universal Ball Joint Tool"? cause it universally fits nothing properly.

then i used the remain portion of the gas to heat it even more and used the air hammer again. went easier now that it moved slightly. now soaking everything over the weekend. i suspect i am going to run a cylinder hone through the end housing to get them to fit

that evaporust will have done nothing. i started with drilling the hole to the actual size, go the remaining pin out. i doubt it was holding me back. i then spent and hour and more than likely $400 ion Oxy Acet gas heating it. once glowing i buzzed it with the air hammer. it moved then stopped...

after two hours, i have managed to drill through the rivet, used the torch to get the end cherry hot and still cannot get it off. shop was closing so i went home. sorry no photo's but if the phone was in my hands, im sure it would have been lit on fire or smashed. round three is tomorrow. gotta...

that was easy, in the home stretch...... all i had to do is get rid of this rivet and slide it off.

ready for a battle, but i was surprised how easy compared to the other side this was.

quickly did the same to the other bar. then off to the end bushing

so threw a couple hours at it today. decided to finish stripping the first torsion bar of its brackets. cleaned it off, found the riveted spots. drilled two small holes in it. came off pretty easy.

i think 11ga, maybe 10. same thickness as the arm

on a side note i had a couple of plates made to box the lowers. yes i ripped off FF but saved a couple weeks and a couple bucks. the Canadian dollar sucks plus the shipping. easier top just go a couple of KM to the shop here

i had to air chisel gently and still wouldn't come aprt like i thought it should. turns out the rubber is welded to the clamp and the middle. was a pain in the to remove the clamps and then the rubber itself.

then i drilled them part way