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Depending on the front hangar you run, either E body or A body springs. unless you stick with the FMJ hangar, then its 24inch front segment

these car;s front suspensions are cool and totally terrible at the same time. the swaybars act as strut rods, yet they mount them on flexible mounts that deflect quite a bit. maybe making more of a solid mount would make it better?

no feeling like the feeling of grinding on $2000 because racecar. im sure that whatever paint i cover it with will totally not burn off after 2 laps. lucky that these wheels cover all the scars

at my sister's still. need to find time to run across and grab it. i only rebuilt the better one. just played with the trashed one while bored at work.

i also managed to install new wheel bearings. but of course that did not go as planned. i am tired for fighting, i will grind tomorrow

got the new box delivered. time to install it. almost the same size as the OEM, but 2.5 turns is so much better. WTF were they thinking 60 years ago the 4.5 was good. anyways, as a side note, i bought the wrong box. the one i got was a small sector box. trying to return it would end up costing...

now fully restored to like used condition

next was to get the old brackets installed. installed the bushing on the bar end, which is a pain in its self. then installed the brackets, bolted and welded.

two steps forward, trip, break my back and then three steps back. i managed to "restore' the bar end mounts. the one cleaned up nicely, the other was more of a fight. to clean the inside out and make fit, i used valve lapping compound and a wheel cylinder hone. after it was cleaned, there were...

wasnt the valve. the shaft end and the body were hitting everything. the box just too big any other way

you might be able to final Grand Cherokee (ZJ) manifolds, but there is an EGR port on the passenger side, that 96-up do not have. like others said, replacing the valve springs should just be standard. a more aggressive cam will just smash an old OEM valve spring from 45 years ago.

so the box does come out. not the way you think. i removed the PS pump, driver's engine mount through box and jacked under the header until the transmission is in the tunnel. now there is enough room to carry it out the front with smashing your new rad

i don't know if anyone else does this, get some scrap corrugated cardboard and lay it on the ground. today is very cold and wet. but the plastic insulates so nice, wipes clean and actually cushions you. plus you never feel like kicking it down the driveway in frustration like a creeper

well i screwed up. with the Canadian economy dropping, i don't want to wait the the dollar sinks lower, so i accidental bought a Lares steering box. was supposed to arrive on monday, but now i got a notice "sorry your package is delayed" telling me coming saturday? sorry?? so i though the...

then i realized that the shocks need to go on before that ball joints are connected. feels good throwing away empty parts boxes, making the pile smaller

it's cold outside. but anyways, threw that arms and spindle in.

after 40 years, they are all leaking or about leak

once out, quick press in, then welded the braces. kinda nice doing it at work. had access to the exhaust system. using a welding hood to evacuate the smoke is so nice. wish i had it lying around. if it isnt too cold, gonna install everything except the bars this weekend.

time for alittle love for the lowers. needed to press in the balljoints before welding. i didn't want to, but someone poorly engineered them, once welded the press too would no longer fit.

the sleeves need to come off. kinda tight. i hit them with a hammer on a vise base to loosen the sleeve. then ran a screw driver into the split, then removed it. i would love to soak this side like the other in Evapo-rust, but my bucket is dead and i dont need to spend $150 on another bucket...

upped arm was along the same procedure. trim the bushing ends, inner and outer. drill the rubber, work it back and forth, remove the rubber, slide out the shaft

*** SEVERAL PRINCESS AUTO DRILL BITS WERE HARMED IN THE MAKING OF THESE POSTS, READER DISCRETION IS ADVISED*** fit i used a knife to circumcise the old bushing. then ran a bunch of drill bits through till the sleeve came loose. then clamped the sleeve in the vise and pull out the sleeve. then...

you know why they call it "Universal Ball Joint Tool"? cause it universally fits nothing properly.

then i used the remain portion of the gas to heat it even more and used the air hammer again. went easier now that it moved slightly. now soaking everything over the weekend. i suspect i am going to run a cylinder hone through the end housing to get them to fit

that evaporust will have done nothing. i started with drilling the hole to the actual size, go the remaining pin out. i doubt it was holding me back. i then spent and hour and more than likely $400 ion Oxy Acet gas heating it. once glowing i buzzed it with the air hammer. it moved then stopped...