1980 Volare Cop Car

That header tube that runs across five and seven on most small block headers is a serious pain.
 
i could not keep oil in my diff. a constant leak from the right axle tube. pulled the axle, cut the perch off. found it.

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Hmm...so how do you intend on fixing that?

I ask b/c: to stop the leak you could simply patch up with something as trivial as JBWeld...seriously, if the stuff held up so far as a fix to me breaking through on the pushrod pinch area of my W2 intake port, then I can't imagine why it couldn't hold up here PROVIDED that there is no pressure (load bearing type stuff) being applied.
 
i cleaned it up a bit, the boogger welded over it. then welded back the perch. the axle only need to be there another year'ish before the 8.75 goes in.
 
I really like what you’re doing with your Fbody it’s definitely different than the norm. Did you make changes to your oil pan , any baffles etc to keep the oil at the pick up?
 
I have a windage tray and running an extra liter of oil. Future plans is to redo the motor with heads, cam, oiling when it get the 8 speed.
 
race day coming up. i learned as a new driver i need to have an instructor ride with me a few laps. that requires a trip to the upholstery shop.

found out why my seat had a moveable back rest. it is just a temporary repair. i swear i will fix it for real soon. totally not gonna be like that forever. i promise

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i dont like the angles, nor the lengths of the links. the end of the bolt touches the axle perch.

i will remedy that when the 8/75 gets installed.

as a bonus. as soon as i moved the driver's seat, the adjuster spring broke. scared the crap out of me
 
made it to the track this morning. neighbours loved the 5:30 flowmaster alarm clock im sure. made it to the gas station, filled up. fuel tank sender is now leaking. perfect. realized i left all my food at home along with my hat.

drove the 45min to Mission Raceways. got gas and a random gas station hat (bald guys need more than sunscreen)

was assigned to the training wheels group. had to follow and instructor, then he drove me in my car, then i drove him around the track. i was paired with a 2005 Boxter that the same instructor was hoping in and out of with my car.

second session i was getting used the the way the car handled (or more correctly didn't) and its braking. a few laps in the pedal just dropped to the floor. real fun when you are doing 160km/h into a hairpin turn.

popped off the wheel in the pits. brake fluid was more like brake gas. these Wilwood brakes are junk. DO NOT BUY THEM. rotors are way too thin, cannot adsorb any heat making the pads, then calipers adsorb the heat.

when i opened the hood and looked around, the filter housing was spraying oil from a fitting. i could not fix it there. so day was done. but i am going back

Junkerup make a youtube on the same problem he had with them. gonna copy his solutions.



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That's wild. Do you have an account on Moparts? There are guys there that have been through all of this and know brake combinations that work well for this level of driving.
 
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Have you tested the boiling point of the fluid? DOT 3 is only 400°, DOT 4 446° and DOT 5.1 500° (not silicone DOT 5). I think Wilwood has some glycol based fluid good to just shy of 600°. Those are dry temps. If the fluid has absorbed any more than about 3% moisture, the boiling points go WAY down. Only a suggestion. Maybe you already have high temp fluid (?) Either way, wouldn't hurt to test the fluid.

As you know from experience, boiling fluid can send the pedal to the floor.
 
Both me and a friend use those rotors and we replaced them every year and all were blue/purple from the heat and this is with the 4 piston units. He still does some pretty serious RR today and uses those rotors still. The 4 piston is really more drag suited. Your six should be able to do job. Are those SX6R units? If so your outing there should not of even started to stress them. But they sorta look like Superlites? All kinda look similar.

The WW 570 or even WW600 fluid is worth a try. Which WW pads? Did you test your front line pressure? Are you using oem rubber lines or SS. What size master? Manual? Oem porp. valve or aftermarket seem to all factor in. I myself do not see the rotor as the key issue.

I just went back and looked at your pics and your master. What is your current front line pressure? Id be considering a properly sized manual master and and if not a aftermarket porp. valve id have a bias valve on at least the fronts.

It almost looks like your running an oem brake system and trying to make it work with that front kit. But you should easily be able to get a lot of blue/heat in those rotors with the proper matched parts.
 
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