Search results for query: *

Well I swapped in a new distributor with HEI module and bracket, and hooked it up with jumper wires and a new e-core coil. Good news, Fitech computer is showing RPM signal and pulsing the injectors. Bad news, no starty. I suspect I don't have any spark, but I was working by myself and wasn't...

For the glass style fuse taps you probably have to pick them up online. The auto parts store has the more modern ones.

Still headscratching over this no RPM signal situation. Fitech tech support guy seems to think it might just be a bad coil since it won't send signal to the tach, either. Coil did fire and run with the carb before the install, but I suppose it's possible. Thinking about just committing to a...

Just cough up the $$$ for Holley's entire ecosystem and call it a day.

Replacement fuel pump is installed, plumbing hooked up, looks like it's supplying fuel to the Fitech during cranking. So that's good. Had to cut a custom wire for the coil, and the plug engagement at the coil is kinda dodgy, so that's less good. Bad news is the computer is registering no RPM...

Heh...copycat... I might recommend drilling some evenly spaced holes in the underside of the brace and using those push-in wire loom retainers for a cleaner install. I'm not super into my current zip tie experiment. Easier to drill those holes during fab and before paint than after it's in the...

Installed new plug wires. Of course, the "small block Mopar" wires have a coil wire that is too short for the FMJ coil mounting location. And you know what? The coil wire I just took off didn't match any of the other spark plug wires. Which means I learned this lesson in the past, the hard way...

Me: "How the hell is this thing already bad? I just replaced this!" The part: "My brother in Christ you did that 15 years ago"

Current plan is to see if it'll run with the existing mechanical distributor. Refresh the plugs/wires/cap/rotor in case any of it has deteriorated with age and started leaking RF. I didn't know your LEDs were still powered straight from the existing wiring through the headlight switch. You...

People are using stock distributors without timing control enabled. That's the "dumb" mode which simply reads RPM off the coil and mixes fuel accordingly while the ignition system continues doing its own thing. In all my searching I haven't found anyone else using a Mopar distributor locked out...

Well I've been continuing to look into this, and I don't think any factory distributor is going to work. Fitech timing control requires the adjustable rotor. Basically, you have to phase the rotor to advance the spark, and then the computer will retard it accordingly. A factory Lean Burn...

Trying to make up for about a decade of neglect since the 360 swap. About halfway done with the Fitech conversion. Waiting on the ForceFuel unit to get returned after I broke the ground stud. Wiring is a mess because everything is pulled out for access. New Tuff Stuff one wire Alternator at the...

4 speed wagon is a cool find. Sadly if it was parked 30 years ago for rust issues, it's not like the rust has healed.

What I was pondering was the specific phasing of the pickups. From my reading it sounded like the dual pickup distributors had a different, inbuilt, mechanical advance to each one. They're labeled START and RUN, so one of them presumably retards spark for starting, but I didn't know if the RUN...

I'm in the process of a Fitech EFI install, and I'm thinking about what to do with the ignition system. Currently, the 5A has a standard Mopar electronic 2-wire distributor, Mopar electronic ignition box, ballast resistor, and standard canister coil. It works, sort of. I had been planning to...

PM'd

Streaming live video from a reentering spacecraft at all is incredible. Never been done before, the plasma from ionizing the air cuts off radio comms with the ground. SpaceX got it to work because there are Starlink sats orbiting directly over the spacecraft, and it punches such a big hole in...

I could have bought a $70 Chinese counterfeit Lokar this entire time!? :eek: I would have cheaped out and done it years ago. This picture was the inspiration for my return spring. I ended up using a longer one and going to an ear further forward on the bell housing. There's a lot of ways you...

Ha. I did my first 4bbl conversion darn near 20 years ago, too. Had help from another poster from the Farley's board. I was basically broke at the time, so he bent the 2bbl throttle bracket over to meet the 4bbl linkage, and cut and welded the kickdown arm to the 4bbl length. It was janky, but...

I just installed Lokar throttle and kickdown last week. Neither were very difficult, though the price gouging on Lokar brackets is ridiculous. But I guess $300 isn't terrible for a single shotgun blast solution to the entire carb linkage problem. One thing I did do after some research was buy...

I tapped my START voltage at the starter relay on the firewall and the RUN voltage off the blue wire in the main harness. Because you used that clip-on splice after the ignition switch, but before the relay, what's probably happening is 12v from the RUN position is going to one side of the...

The only reason I'd replace the hoses is because you're 90% of the way there on the labor by the time you've unhooked them to drain the compressor, replace the dryer, replace the o-rings, and purge the components. But, that's assuming lines are available and cheap, which might not be true...

You can get simple high/low port adapters on Amazon for hooking up to gauges and AC service machines with the current 134a style ports. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/air-conditioning-service-port-adapters/product-line/four-seasons-air-conditioning-retrofit-service-port-adapters...

Should be no problem running the coil side of a relay. They pull very little amperage.

There are little brass pieces that can add 1/4" spade terminals to glass fuses, which you can then connect a wire to. There are also these adapters that you can use to replace the glass fuse, then plug a blade style fuse tap into. Might depend on the clearance in your fuse area, though...