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I didn't notice that stuff till you said it. The lights were probably added by whoever did the dog dishes to make it look more like a cop car. There's no strong metal back there so in an accident those added on shoulder belts could do more harm then good tearing out or severely bending the metal...

79 was the first year for the aluminum master cylinders so that's probably why the truck booster changed. I've never had to replace the booster but the K car one seems to be the most common one to use to get that smaller diameter. More and more aftermarket kits are using the mopar style...

Those might be the worst looking dog dishes I've seen. But they shouldn't rust and clean up OK? Definitely not an old cop car like the ad says. It does have aftermarket fuel injection and edelbrick intake, which adds something to the value.

It doesn't look like anything more then typical rear-end oil? They say need gone so of you want to drive that far offer them $100 for it.

How much is it. It's not sure grip, but that's not necessarily important either if it's only for a driver. And if it's a higher number then 2.45 you can add it to it. Can't tell if it's just the pic but the spider gear on the bottom looks like it's chewed up a bit?

I think when it comes to used parts like these axles for most people here if it's good they run it. If you open it up and it's clean looking with no obvious damage or signs of major wear that's not unknown condition. Chances are pretty slim for an FMJ body 8 1/4 to have issues. I'd imagine...

Who's going to bother rebuilding it? If it's good run it. Someone wanting a grand for one that's not rebuilt needs to come down to realization. And if they claim it's rebuilt they'd probably mean new bearings and seals and slapping some paint on it. If the seller wants more then a couple...

The hardest part of getting them out is dealing with rusty UBolt. I always cut them. In a junk yard you might get lucky and it'll break otherwise you'll need a cordless impact or get a work out with a ratchet and breaker bar.

You need a new carb, vacuum distributor, ecu and wiring. This change is already well documented online, there should be step by step posts about it in the forum here also. You can get all the parts from rock auto. Dealers used to have the wiring under mopar performance, don't know if they do...

Unbolt the Y pipe.., remove the bolts and nuts for the manifold and the air pipe at the back. If it doesn't clear you might have to raise the engine a bit.

Looks like he hasn't been here in over 6 years.

Looks nice and clean!

I always change my mind about them. They kind of look too plain without them but look like a cheap add on with them. I don't like the ones that cover any part of the slots in the rims.

The heater hoses are also on that side but should be easy to see if the leak is from any of them.

With the 273 you get into is the trans with it any good? If not it could be an issue running yours, there were some differences torque converter wise. You could probably move the water pump and timing cover over to deal with the rad hoses on the wrong side but would also need the harmonic...

It would probably easier to find another 318 for it. It's the 273 any good? The transmission? The carb? Its all the little things that will make that swap a pain. Run the 318 till it dies.

Yeah the even-odd part numbers always confuse me too. How's the chewed up part look? Could it be an issue that the cover that goes over the gear end is causing it to not sit properly in the regulator? Hopefully it's not a problem with one company making a p.o.s. gear that multiple places are...

The only thing that makes them not interchangeable is the plugs changed at some point. I'm pretty sure it was an 88/89 thing but it's been a long time since I had to deal with that. Ive got the loose motors kicking around but don't know where they are!?

Well since you asked you might want to re-access some of your parts. It's great to have the stuff available but things like the busted rear defroster switch and the radio with the worn out face that probably doesn't work (those buttons and tape deck are prone to failure even when they've come...

Do they work? Usually when master cylinders are bad it's seized or leaking, if they work but not getting power assist it's the booster.

Read the old replies, the opinions are going to be the same.

Mileage doesn't mean much when it looks like it's spent most of its life outside and those B pillars ususlly don't wear through like that on low mileage either but could have been deteriorated and more prone to damage from years of sun. At least it's not a crazy price range he's starting with...

At one point when they were affordable to buy and plentiful in yards it would have been pretty easy to pick up a 5th Avenue or loaded dodge or plymouth to rob the power stuff and wiring out of. But now even the junk ones are going for what good ones used to sell for. I should have bought some...

Cool! That's neat you added all stuff to it. The one I have is a stripper even radio delete. I've also been trying to find a cage or at least see one to copy since they were pretty basic back then.

Some of the doors could be electric. They are on Chryslers, i don't know how far they got into the automatic temperature control on the others. I think AC comes out of the front vents and heat comes out of the defrost and floor. It won't make a difference if AC works or not it's not smart...