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Getting under the car isn't he issue, it's getting back up! My car has it located behind the bumper on the driver's side. Being a big block necessitated it here. Hard to see in this photo, but Dad's is in the engine bay on the passenger side. Probably wouldn't work here if you still have a...

The amount of pain and mess some of you guys are willing to put up with bewilders me. :-)

Natural, at least. I think it would look tits with a polished stainless pipe and hardware though.

I've found AI to be useless for questions such as this. It just makes shit up.

Had the same thing happen. I lopped the connector off and slipped new vacuum hose over top of the plastic line. Did one by one so I didn't mess the order.

Nature's Dexcool, LMFAO. I'm stealing that.

Hey, I know that guy.

I have no idea if this helps, but I have this gear marked 58 with 36 teeth. It doesn't line up with anything. It *might* be the factory gear from my 5A. If you can identify it and it works for you then it's yours for the cost of the ride.

You're not running water are you?

That there is unobtanium. If you're selling it this guy should pick it up.

Everything is easy with a sawzall. Probably one of the few tools that actually lives up to its name. Used a single blade last year to section an entire truck bed into quarters. Just wear gloves and safety glasses. Be sure to take more than you need so the bumpshop has a margin of error.

Start watching the inventories at local pick 'n pull yards. Find an M with good dog legs and sawzall them out. Find a body shop that will burn them in for you.

This is and old thread, I didn't even take into account that you're in Poland. Yeah, importing parts would be expensive. Clean the crank up, recondition the rods with new bolts (ARP if you can), zero deck the block and run a piston with a quench pad. Shoot for 9.5:1 to 9:1 compression...

Factory 318 manifolds are good for 300 HP.

HOLLEY / DEMON CARBURETOR MAIN JETS GAS TYPE | eBay This eBay seller lists them. Says to specify size when placing order and is about $14 to your door.

In total, so 1/4" per side? That really isn't that bad.

You're going to have to have the perches relocated and maybe even the axle cut down. At that rate you should have started with a Ford 8.8 with disc breaks. Do you have an axle shop anywhere near you? Easiest is to take both the new and old axles and tell them to match the dimensions and shaft...

Yeah, this stuff snowballs quickly. You may want to think about a cast stroker assembly kit. It'll come with everything you need to screw the bottom together sans machine work. Add up all the costs of reconditioning the crank/rods/new pistons, etc and weigh it against the cost of a kit...

Without doing any of the aforementioned? Flip the car upside down.

You can get these cars to handle as if they're on rails and get a smooth ride all using the factory type suspension. It costs a stupid amount of money though. A stupid amount of which I have tied up in mine. But damn is it fun.

It's not the shocks. Standard headers hang considerably lower than the drag link. Driver quality or even stiff KYB shocks aren't going to prevent this. Your problem is the torsion bars in these cars are barely 140# spring rate. This was only solved for me when I installed Firm Feel 300#...

Dude, that's awesome!

That's probably a 7.25" axle if it's factory. I don't even think anyone makes gears for that axle anymore. They certainly don't make limited slip for them. 8.25" out of a wagon or AHB car is probably your only option for something that bolts in.

Wow that looks clean. Way cleaner than mine under the hood. Got any specific plans in mind for the motor?