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Found a very loose air pump belt that seemed to calm down vibration. 2 bbl carb, very easy. When I hold a high RPM and observe pressure gauge, needle fluctuates from 4lbs down to 2lbs the back up to 4lbs. I'm assuming that the carb a higher RPM's is dumping more fuel and the pump is responding...

OK,.....a better description: My car is a 77 LeBaron, CA car. There are three steel lines under car,... to and from tank. Line 1. This line usually 3/8", comes directly from the sending unit which supplies fuel directly to the fuel pump. Line 2. This line is a fuel return line to tank from the...

Thanks for the replies. After checking fuel system, looks more like it be may be in that area. I hooked up a fuel press gauge and needle was all over the place. Raised rpm and dropped to around 3lbs. Everything had previously been gone through or replaced. I couldn't help notice when I removed...

You cannot blow air back through the supply line??? I had just checked my supply line. And that's what I did. Disconnected the supply line to the pump, put a clear line in place, about 3' long and blew through it as well as sucking on it slightly until I saw fuel in the clear line. All clear...

Yes,... there are check procedures for components. But I know from past problems, when you're driving and the engine flat dies out, there's not much that'll do that except the ECM. Since new, probably gone through 5 ECM's including the one on car now. The ECMs are getting a bit more difficult...

Rollover valve would be a good place to look. I doubt the gas cap. There's a carb vent line that goes to the charcoal canister. Find the line on the top of the canister labeled tank. You should be able to blow through it back towards tank. There's also a return line on the fuel filter that...

I 'd like to hear from those who've had the lean burn control module fail and what symptoms you experienced along the way if any. The earlier versions, 76-80 had electrical fail issues, and I know in the 80's they seemed to have sorted them out. I had recently gone through my 77 LeBaron and it...

There were seals that were spilt in half that were in pieces as well. Once the springs were removed the seals that were still on the stems, lifted right off due to there hardened and split condition. They were the original 77 seals. I knew they'd been leaking for some time.

My 77 LeBaron has a chrome strip running along the top of each door next to window(2dr coupe). I need to remove passenger side as about in the middle, there is a dent I would like to remove. There's a retaining nut at the rear of strip you can get off with a wrench. The strip, once nut is off...

My 77 LeBaron has been through a lot of rebuilding. Last item was to replace original valve stem seals. 146,000 miles on engine but still ran very well but went through plugs rather quickly. I did the job while heads on engine in car. I used one of those Kryptonian finger tools that collapses...

Did the same thing with my 77 2 door LeBaron. 52... is for 8 1/4, 53... for 7 1/4, all 904 trans. Shorter ones for 727 trans.

I assume you mean the front "oval" eye, right? You can get replacements bushings. I replaced mine a couple of months ago. I wouldn't be so quick to replace them with an alternative. The new replacements are pretty stout !!

I have the service manual as well. This method is used to trace a vibration that may be caused by an out of balance drive shaft. So far all is good with no vibe's felt. Since this DS came out of a running vehicle, I'm going to assume at this point it was true enough and did not need extra...

Well,.....after all the work done completing 7.25 to new 8.25, took maiden voyage last weekend. Went to gas station and a nice big loop never getting over 35 mph. Next trip will get up to 45-50 and feel for any vibrations. So far everything's been smooth as glass!

That paranoid?? My question was, had anyone else had or seen any factory drive shafts without balance weights welded on.

Just about all the welds I've seen are on either side of what ever piece of metal they used to balance. There's not ONE visible mark on this shaft that looks like anything was ever tacked/welded anything in place.

Thanks for the reply and suggestions. Factory SM does tell how to balance as you've suggested. BUT,......is it probable that there was never ANY balance weights on the shaft simply because the shaft was true enough?? Again,. there is NO visible area where ANY weights were ever applied.

I am in the process of wrapping up my 77 LeBaron 7.25 conversion to 8.25. The last item I needed was a drive shaft for this specific application. I did indeed find one. It was a bit of a mess requiring several hours worth of cleaning, painting and prep for new u-joints. While doing so, I noticed...

YES !!!! that is it. That rod contacts the back of each side of the shackle. Rubber bushings insert through the "tube" above the rod as well. The pic is upside down in regards to how it's actually bolted to the upper rail. Thanks for pic !!

I'm just completing my swap as well. Swap was for a 77 LeBaron. Mine acquired 8.25 had the 2.45 ratio and I wanted the 2.76's that mine came with so I had to replace everything inside the case. Now sure grip w/2.76's, all new everything. If your 7.25 had the 3" axle tubes your shock plates will...

Sorry for no pics. I'm not really up to speed being able to post pics. Entire assembly back under car. All parking brake cables interchanged between the 7.25 and 8.25. My next needed item will be the drive shaft. Other than that part wise,.... it's just about a wrap !!

Yes I was! They do put "tension" on both sides of the upper shackles when the car is on the ground. It would appear that the factory tool is necessary if you're working on one side opposed to dropping the entire diff. But here's a real bonus regarding replacing the front oval bushings. No...

Yes,....the problem is, is that these are oval shape. I'm trying to come up with some kind of a donut of sorts, that will ride on the edge of the bushing. That along with my puller kit may work. I was surprised that I couldn't budge them with a punch and hammer. I wasn't trying to "pound" on...

These factory brackets are for the leaf springs. They have the leaf's top shackle bolt go through them. Without them, there would be nothing to attach the top of the shackle to. Under normal load, the small bar rides across the top portion of the shackles on both sides. It looks to me like the...

Well,......I ended up jacking the diff high enough to see that the tension bars were not touching the shackles on both sides. So,..removed front retainer bolts bolts AND the entire two bolt rear tensioner brackets from the upper rails. The whole diff assembly dropped down after that. Not sure...