1977 aspen se Electronic ecu to Pertronix III full set

jed_laski

Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2022
Messages
19
Reaction score
14
Location
Poland, Europe
Hi, i just received new billet pertronix ignitor III with fitting flamethrower coil and wires. I got installed 1406 with airgap already and working on stock ignition (distributor is worn pit).

The question is how to wire it with stock electronic chrysler system? I found out most guides cover going from points to this, not an ecu to pertronix straight 12v :( i got the diagram but it would help me alot if i qould have the guide what to ditchand what to comnect. Thanks!

get-attachment.jpg
 

Mikes5thAve

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2020
Messages
1,501
Reaction score
609
Location
Canada
It should have come with a wiring diagram. From that you should be able to figure out where it connects and what's redundant.
It looks like the main purpose is to add an electronic ignition to a car that doesn't already have it so you shouldn't need any of the mopar ecu components. Start from scratch.
 
Last edited:

toolmanmike

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
106
Reaction score
38
The pertronix doesn't use a factory ECU or the wiring. Read the instructions that came with your kit.
 

Aspen500

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2015
Messages
7,148
Reaction score
2,854
Location
Rib Mountain, WI
Basically red wire from ditributor goes to coil plus, black to coil negative. Then a keyed B+ (hot in start and run) goes to coil plus. This will be the blue wire from the ballast. You don't need the ballast so remove it, and splice the wires together. The original ECU,and wiring to it, can be left in place, or removed if you like. They aren't needed anymore.

Think of the eletronic distrubutor like a points style like your instructions show. Only difference is one is electronically switched, the other mechanically with points. Otherwise it's exactly the same, especially wirh an internally mounted module.

I am a bit confused by the wiring diagram you posted though. 1959 Dodge electronic ignition?
 
Last edited:

jed_laski

Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2022
Messages
19
Reaction score
14
Location
Poland, Europe
Hi again! I have installed slightly used edelbrock 1406 600cfm, chineese airgap intake and pertronix III ignitor full set with their original billet distributor along with flamethrower III coil since my last post here. I also got lokar style kickdown and custom throttle cable brackets so they work without hesitation. The car works well on low and full throttle, smogger 318 goes much quicker compared to what it was before and im really happy with result. It starts fine when cold and when warmed up, but...
It has problem accelerating on medium gas like in everyday city drive. I cannot verify what It possibly can be. The fuel pump and filter i installed were brand new, i set the timing along with my mechanic and it sputters through the exhaust pipe. What it can be? Jets, not enough air/fuel? The carb was taken off a factory tune bigblock car.
 

Mikes5thAve

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2020
Messages
1,501
Reaction score
609
Location
Canada
Did you tune the carb for the 318? There ste several different adjustments to it including springs that can be changed.
 

Camtron

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2019
Messages
1,983
Reaction score
1,509
Location
US
probably air/fuel mix. If it’s because of a failed part, dirty part or just too fat a carb is hard to say. 600cfm isn’t huge but is likely set up fat for the big block.
 

jed_laski

Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2022
Messages
19
Reaction score
14
Location
Poland, Europe
Everything is possible thanks for suggestions! We checked it on stock electronic distributor and also other 1406 with the same effect. I started thinking about my chineese airgap style intake since it does not have cut out in the middle under the carburetor like the original Edelbrock style has. I mean there are two 0 0 ports for both sides of the engine, and ive seen on pics that Edelbrock has a cut-out in the middle just like ive seen on 318willrun video with stock cast intake so both sides can catch air from opposite sides under the carburetor. Mine has flat surface so both sides are completely fed on themselves and there is no cross-air mixing. I am aware that picture shows my LA style and the right one is RB. What do you think?

aa222.jpg
 
Last edited:

Camtron

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2019
Messages
1,983
Reaction score
1,509
Location
US
Everything is possible thanks for suggestions! We checked it on stock electronic distributor and also other 1406 with the same effect. I started thinking about my chineese airgap style intake since it does not have cut out in the middle under the carburetor like the original Edelbrock style has. I mean there are two 0 0 ports for both sides of the engine, and ive seen on pics that Edelbrock has a cut-out in the middle just like ive seen on 318willrun video with stock cast intake so both sides can catch air from opposite sides under the carburetor. Mine has flat surface so both sides are completely fed on themselves and there is no cross-air mixing. I am aware that picture shows my LA style and the right one is RB. What do you think?

View attachment 52628
Mike at MLR performance covered this pretty well on the A body forum a while back.
the .250” cutout allows for improved signal and the engine to access the full carb instead of each side being isolated and will gain about 20hp over 5,500rpm.

Link: Intake Mods, do they really work?
 

Duke5A

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2018
Messages
1,690
Reaction score
900
Location
Michigan
Mike at MLR performance covered this pretty well on the A body forum a while back.
the .250” cutout allows for improved signal and the engine to access the full carb instead of each side being isolated and will gain about 20hp over 5,500rpm.

Link: Intake Mods, do they really work?

I'm no expert, but that seems to be splitting the difference between a dual plane and a single manifold. If that little mod gains on the top end, it must me losing something on the bottom end. If this is a street motor I wouldn't mod the manifold. A smogger 318 is never going to spin high enough to take advantage of it without a cam and heads, and you'll still lose the bottom end.
 

Camtron

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2019
Messages
1,983
Reaction score
1,509
Location
US
I'm no expert, but that seems to be splitting the difference between a dual plane and a single manifold. If that little mod gains on the top end, it must me losing something on the bottom end. If this is a street motor I wouldn't mod the manifold. A smogger 318 is never going to spin high enough to take advantage of it without a cam and heads, and you'll still lose the bottom end.
Oh I agree. It gains a little torque down low but overall would be negligible and unnoticeable unless you’re someone building to get every % of performance from a build for the track…But you probably wouldn’t be using the Chinese airgap if that was the case to begin with.
I run an unmodified Chinese airgap on my magnum right now. It’s just fine as is out of the box.
 

Camtron

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2019
Messages
1,983
Reaction score
1,509
Location
US
“ Without any mods to the intake here is what we got:
RPM TQ/HP
3000 501/296
3500 514/341
4000 527/404
4500 515/442
5000 496/473
5300 482/487
5500 463/484
Not to bad, loads of torque and pretty good top end. It started to taper off at 5300rpm. Peak TQ was at 4000rpm 527tq and peak HP was at 5300 487hp

Now I cut the divider down about .250", lets see what happened
RPM TQ/HP
3000 506/299
3500 513/344
4000 528/404
4300 532/437
4500 529/453
5000 514/491
5200 503/500
5400 487/501
5500 479/501
5600 467/500
5700 458/499
5800 446/494 “
 

jed_laski

Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2022
Messages
19
Reaction score
14
Location
Poland, Europe
I just driven my car with proper timing set. It stumbled a bit more than my "eye to ear setup" wich was tad over scale. Once doing about 15mph i floored the car all the way to the bottom and it started to shoot, stumble and bog without accelerating until i released the pedal and tapped it again hardly and after that it did fairly acceptable.
So i belive the best what i can do for now is a metering rod and jet set from edelbrock. If anyone has a tuning chart and could send me I would be very thankfull since my european IP is blocked on.
 
Last edited:

Sub03

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
147
Reaction score
92
Location
Norway
That's interesting. Actually I'm going the opposite way, I have a ~3/8" open spacer/insulator under the carb making a gap between the runners.

I read on several sites that an open spacer adds a little top end power on a dual plane intake, but usually hurts the low rpm. A divided or a four hole spacer is the other way around.

I ordered two four hole spacers from Summit (0.25" and 0.5") but haven't got my car from winter storage yet to try them out.
The Idea is the four hole spacer supposedly adds air speed through the venturies which is better for fuel atomization, giving smoother idle and maybe some low end torque.

I doubt i feel any difference though on a stock 5.2 Mag, but I have to try. You know the placebo effect is powerful sometimes...

It was this guy on Youtube who convinced me:

 

Camtron

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2019
Messages
1,983
Reaction score
1,509
Location
US
I hope these upload in the correct order, I included the page numbers at the bottom corners so, make sure you read in order.

IMG_7444.jpeg


IMG_7445.jpeg


IMG_7446.jpeg


IMG_7447.jpeg


IMG_7448.jpeg


IMG_7449.jpeg


IMG_7450.jpeg


IMG_7451.jpeg
 
Back
Top