It is
many times easier if the tank is empty (as opposed to having 18 gallons of gas in da tank), or as empty as you can get.
Having car on a lift and using a transmission lift/lack underneath makes the job many times easier - but for most of us that is a dream
There should be a grounding clip on the main fuel line, that needs to be popped off (and not lost somewhere).
I highly recommend
cutting the three hoses (main, return and vapor) and then worrying about disconnecting - after tank is out of the way. Once tank is removed, remove the three hose pieces from lines and from tank to make correct length new sections of hose.
There are two attaching bolts towards the front of the tank. Be sure to soak those bolts a few times with penetrating fluid before starting.
Have a jack to support the weight of the tank before removing the bolts. With tank supported and bolts out, allow the straps to drop down. You can then twist the straps so they can come out of their socket(s) then get 'em out of your way.
Once hoses are disconnected and weight of tank is on your support, then, he he, try to slide the tank off of the fuel filler neck. This part might be the most difficult. I have had to disconnect the fuel filler neck from body and drop the tank/neck together before. I have also cut the remaining part of the rubber boot/sea/grommetl before - to get that neck loose.
ALWAYS use a new filler neck to tank grommet - part number
4002010, which is still available new from Dodge (this part fits all FMJ's, and a few other Chrysler products).
Note, there are two different grommets with same part number. The above is one version. Either version (tapered or squared) will work fine.
The grommet needs to be installed in tank first. Use of a little something to lubricate the filler neck is advised, when inserting neck into tank.
BudW