I have not seen a fuel pump eccentric go bad. Badly worn – but still good enough to get the job done for many more years.
If you remove the distributor cap and can see it moving when cranking, then that is not the problem.
If distributer is not moving – then time for timing chain.
The only other option would be if timing chain was just replaced and someone forgot to reinstall the eccentric.
It takes a bit to get fuel lines to get filled – especially if car has sat for a while.
If a person has access to an low-pressure electric fuel pump, what I would do is hook all of the fuel lines/hoses back up.
- If car has a 3-nipple fuel filter (hidden under the alternator), then I would disconnect the small hose at metal line side (leaving the small hose attached to fuel filter) and insert a ¼” bolt into the hose. It might be helpful to loosen the alternator (remove the (½” head) bolt completely), pop fan belt off of pulley, and tilt alternator upwards to gain better access to the fuel filter.
- If car has a 2-nipple fuel filter (possible but unlikely), then the step above is not needed.
- Disconnect the metal fuel line at carburetor.
- With a section of 5/16” hose, hook the electric fuel pump to the just disconnected line.
- Hook another piece of hose and have it go to a clear container.
- Hook up electric fuel pump up (temporarily) and watch fuel as it fills the container. It will not matter if mechanical fuel pump is in place, or not.
- If it takes a long time or fuel exiting hose spirts or is not a solid stream of fuel, then you have a hole(s) in line or rusty lines or fuel sender sock is stopped up.
If fuel is old (5 years or older) I would suck out as much fuel as you can capture (the above system would work well for that) and replace with new fuel (enough to get running and to get to gas station – so maybe 3 gallons/12L ?).
Make sure you get/use only 100% fuel – for ethanol doesn’t work well/causes nothing but troubles on our cars.
I have a feeling you might have a leaky line/hose somewhere and/or a fuel tank of “stuff” preventing fuel flow.
Once fuel is moving, you can reattach fuel line to carburetor and reattach the third fuel filter hose. Car should start, now (if dry fuel lines was your only concern).
There are three metal fuel lines going to fuel tank. 5/16” main fuel line. 1/4” return fuel line (the one you plugged temporality to test – be sure to hook back up afterwards). 3/16” fuel vapor hose (not an issue/concern for getting car started).
These above-mentioned metal lines are 2-piece and has a somewhat hidden section of rubber fuel hose close to the firewall behind R/F tire, that sometimes causes either a fuel (or vapor) leak. Note: it is much easier to suck vapor (air) than it is to suck fuel.
Here are what the metal fuel lines (tank to pump) look like:
Rear looking forward
Firewall hose splice (sorta hidden)
Front looking towards rear.
Kinda hard to find the rusty steel lines in the wet gravel (sorry).
I removed these to make duplicates of – for they are too rusty to reuse.
My plan is to make a set in stainless and to use 3/8" fuel line (one of these days . . .).
BudW
