WANTED 1981 Lebaron Wagon

BudW

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I don’t have much data to give you about taillights.

Brakes – I do have data (but no parts for you). If you have the factory part numbers – it will at least make it easier to find parts (see attached PDF, below).
This is from my ’82 parts book, for I don’t have a ’80 or ’81 book to look at.

Item # 19, the rear brake cables (which I think you are looking for, maybe) – the difference between “Police & Taxi” is they use 11” drum brakes where most others use 10” drum brakes. If you are not sure if you have 10’s or 11’s, then take a picture like this and post here and I can tell you right away if you have 10’s or 11-inch rear brakes.
20170619_094204m.jpg

Disregard the circle – but the circled area is what I want to see.
BudW
 

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Andy Smith

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Thank you for the info! I placed a Call out to wildcatmopars.com and put in a parts request. I have a custom narrowed 8 3/4 rear that I'm putting in the wagon with rear disk brakes. I need the parking brake cable to make it all work.
The tail lights I just want as spares. They're hard to find for the 80 and 81 wagons. LOL.
thanks again !!
 

BudW

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Please make a post in “Transmissions and Rear Ends” section about your differential and/or rear disk brake install (lots of photos and commentary is greatly appreciated, especially for others thinking about or planning on performing the same modifications – um, like me for example).

Several people have used a Jeep Cherokee 8¼” differential upgrade (with factory rear disk brakes) in FMJ’s.
I have heard of people using aftermarket 8¾” rear disk brakes (not in FMJ’s) – but have not heard or seen any first-hand pictures or experience on them.
The details for parking brakes should be very close or identical for other body types.

Also, the FMJ park brakes (after brake petal, but before backing plates) has changed a few times over the years. If a person is missing parts, it is OK to use another year FMJ park brake cable parts – just as long as you use all of the parts from donor vehicle (except for park brake petal).
Also, I had heard the pair of cables going to backing plates are the same from ’76-89 (except for difference between 10” and 11” drums) – but that is not yet confirmed.

I believe that one person who installed a Jeep Cherokee 8¼ w/disk brakes, said the mounting location on body for the park brake cables were in same location, so those cables fit/worked fine – but I couldn’t find his thread to verify that.

My ’77 wagon and ’86 Fifth Ave will get 8¾” differentials installed (still looking for parts . . . and $$), before upgrading to big blocks.

The tail lights I just want as spares. They're hard to find for the 80 and 81 wagons. LOL.
A very good plan.

I have factory part books from mid-1950’s to 2010’s and am only missing two books (’80 and ’81).
BudW
 

Andy Smith

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I have some work to finish on the house first, but I will get to detailed pics as soon as I start the swap. The brake set up is from a 1989 caddy. The rear is from a 1966 Fury and it was shortened one inch on each side. I had Mosier axles made for it. I'll be doing the swap in about two or three weeks.
20181021_181333.jpg


20181021_175708.jpg
 

BudW

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20181021_18133.jpg

Shiny!

A ’65-68 C-body (Fury) 8¾” has perches set at 46.00” center-to-center and is 56.750” flange-to-flange.
FMJ differentials (either 7¼” or 8¼”) has perches at 44.460” center-to-center and is 54.340” flange-to-flange.

If you had 1.0” cut off per side – that would be pretty darn close to perfect width wise, at 54.750”.
The perch width might be a different story – and might be worth to re-measure before install (white arrows, in picture above).

You might also perform a search using differential removal / install and my user name (BudW) for tips.

Do you plan on reusing the original ISO spring clamps or upgrading to the older style spring/shock plates?

One last thing, wagons came with an 8¼” differential. If yours is in good condition, don’t toss it. There are several members here looking for a replacement for their 7¼”one.
BudW
 

Andy Smith

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View attachment 31930
Shiny!

A ’65-68 C-body (Fury) 8¾” has perches set at 46.00” center-to-center and is 56.750” flange-to-flange.
FMJ differentials (either 7¼” or 8¼”) has perches at 44.460” center-to-center and is 54.340” flange-to-flange.

If you had 1.0” cut off per side – that would be pretty darn close to perfect width wise, at 54.750”.
The perch width might be a different story – and might be worth to re-measure before install (white arrows, in picture above).

You might also perform a search using differential removal / install and my user name (BudW) for tips.

Do you plan on reusing the original ISO spring clamps or upgrading to the older style spring/shock plates?

One last thing, wagons came with an 8¼” differential. If yours is in good condition, don’t toss it. There are several members here looking for a replacement for their 7¼”one.
BudW
The perches were relocated for the correct spring width. It's all done. I am going to use the shock plates with the new rear. The rear that's currently in the car now is a 8 1/4 with a 3:73 posi. Works perfect. No noises or vibrations.
When I get this installed, I'll put it up for sale. Probably another couple of weeks.
 

XfbodyX

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What type/brand calipers are you going to use? Its easy to use the first segment of whatever brand calipers your using and graft them into your existing mopar setup where they merge on the rear inner frame, or you can look on places like summit for a full universal kit.

Im sure you have looked into the aspect of going to disc in the rear might not make your current perportioning valve happy but you probably wont know until you do the swap and then maybe even a different master might be the fix with your current P valve.

But overall its easy to sort out as you go and you seem to be right on track already.
 
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