1983 Chrysler cordoba

Thanks for the tire update. so let get this straight the piece of plastic or rubber that sticks out on one side faces the bearing and the other end with the open gap faces the knuckle? Sadly i had already picked them up shouldve mentioned that before. sorry
 
Are you sure you have the right bearings? Are they installed the right way? Are you saying the seal wouldn't go in? they are a tight fit, and I like to tap them in gently with large socket and mallet. Don't beat directly on the seal or you may ruin it.
 
Well i got the car finally back on the ground and man does it have a nice rake. the only thing that i couldnt get to bolt on was the stabilizer bar. stupid me cut off the sleeves for the center brackets and ended up having to makeshift my own that kind of work. that and the end links wouldnt mate up to the torsion bars. im thinking the torsion bars are miss aligned along with an entire front alignment. any ideas why the stabilizer bar wont fit? Ill post pics later.
 
It can handle plenty as long as it doesn't hook up !lol. My plan is to never put slicks on my car until the 8.75 goes in. I belive the 8.25 is a lot stronger than most people think. After all, They put it in vans and trucks with good bit of weight and towing capacity.
 
Well i'm only asking because, there's this 408 stroker that summit carries by blue print and the hp rating is at 450 and the torque is 550. I don't want to go put the rear end in and then blow it up. So i'm at a stand still.
 
I honestly don't know, but I would think that 550 ft. lbs might be enough to do in a 8.25
 
If it were my dime, the cost to acquire & install an 8 3/4" would allow me to sleep better at night. Relatively cheap insurance. I'm sure someone has an 8 1/4" that their running 500 lb ft through on 10" slicks, but that's the exception, not the rule. While looking online, the cost of doing an 8 3/4" really isn't much more than doing an 8 1/4". All the parts are readily available for either rearend, but there is a lot more strength in the 8 3/4" they did run them behind the HEMI automatics after all!
 
true. I was just curious. i lost my chance at having a 8 3/4", but some is selling a 8 1/4" out of a diplomat police cruiser. Thanks for the input.
 
So A buddy of mine and I are planning on fabricating our own fender ext. for the rear instead of trying to look for decent ones or buying those ones from replica plastics. I think its just easier this way. We'll be starting on that in the next 2 months. But for now I have to swap the starter then get the stabilizer bar back in there and then i can put it on the road and have the front end realigned.
 
just out of curiosity, Do you need a stronger battery when swapping to a mini starter? I just put mine in and had the battery on the charger for a little while. it just wouldn't crank.
 
Nope. If anything, you need less battery since the mini puts out a bunch more power at the same voltage. Check your battery cables for resistance end-to-end (if you haven't already) and have the battery checked. Either that, or you got a defective starter.
 
I got the car to start later that night, but then i drop it in reverse and the the car bogged way down and died. so its either the battery or a dead alternator. I'm not too sure just yet.
 
I would guess it's probably a little of both. Once running, it should stay running via the alternator. If the battery is strong, it will run a long time on a dead alternator before it finally conks... like, voltage so low that using the turn signal kills the ignition--I had that happen once. Thank God after I cancelled the signal I was able to pop the clutch and re-start the car. I got a few more miles down the road before it died for good.
 
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