2018 is the Year of the M (well, I'm hoping...)

[drpreposterous]

Hello, M-Nuts! Knowing your passion and expertise with all things M, I'm hoping you won't mind dispensing some advice.

I will be turning in a Jeep Renegade lease in June this year. When that happens, I want an M-body in its place as a daily. I can probably dish out anywhere from $8 to $12K on my next daily. I am not a wrench artist nor likely to become one given my job (Charge Nurse) and private responsibilities (disabled sister, elderly neighbor, volunteer gigs). So, I'll be paying for any work. Then again, if I find a "done," I won't mind that either!

Of course, I'm aware the rest of the world wouldn't rate a superb Fifth Avenue or its brother Ms at more than say, $3,500 USD. I place no particular premium on performance nor fuel economy (though a sleeper would be fun!). My commute is short and surface streets. The higher values for me are reliability and safety (yeah, I know it won't match a modern car). Could you please rate the following as:

1. Must have 2. Desirable 3. okay 4. Not worth it/don't do it.

1. Oil undercoating (or Rust Bullet, POR-15) etc. Annual?
2. PST or Firm Feel suspension--full deal.
3. Ditto with steering upgrade/rebuild.
4. Upgrade discs to 11.75? What about 4k-wheel discs?
5. Sure Grip? I've driven RWD most of my life, so winter driving is no scare.
6. Electronic Ignition (which)?
7. Holley Sniper fuel injection or ditch the Lean Burn another way?
8. Radiator upgrade
9. 360 swap
10. Fun stuff you'd do once the safe 'n reliable stuff is done...

I know that's a lengthy little list. I am acutely aware it would be dubious to put a lot of money into something an insurance company would pay out only $1100 for if wrecked. But ya only live once. And I wanna live Mopar. So let's hear what you think! And if you want to make driveway space...

 

[Justwondering]

I plan to live vicariously through you and this car!
Others will chime in on the mechanicals.

I'll offer the advice of :
go ahead and replace the headliner before you put it in service. Everything will look fine and then 1 day it will be dropping on your head.
Check all the interior, door panels, seat edges, sun visors... Many of the m-bodies had cloth covered plastic parts and they take a beating from sun and wear (especially where feet hit or scuff as well as where folks grab to steady themselves getting in and out of the car).
The seats in my 87 fifth avenue are so comfy and no big rips or tears but you can tell that the driver side front seat has a little more compressed seat than the passenger front.

Just remember that part of the glory is enjoying the journey to and from

 

[BudW]

I have an ’86 5th Ave, a ’77 Volare station wagon and a ’97 Dodge ¾ ton diesel pickup and drive all three on a regular basis (more so on the cars / less so on the pickup). God be willing, I’m planning on daily driving all three for a long time.
That said, Oklahoma City does not the winter weather you have in Detroit. My M-body does quite well (currently) in snow and on ice.

Your questions:
1 I can’t comment on that. Others here can.

2 Only if you have the money. Only three suspension upgrades make a huge difference (providing the rest is not wore out): solid K-frame to frame mounts (Aluminum, cast iron or polyurethane), removing and toss the Iso-claim rear differential to leaf spring rubber mounts (with either using an FFI system or getting older Mopar shock plates) and get a good set of shocks. That and tires, your car will feel a lot more modern.

3 The factory made our steering gears with too much power assist from factory (less road feel). The three catalytic converter cars (most M-bodies) – L/F pre cat is right next to the steering gear and (in my opinion) causes the steering gear seals to melt and start leaking over time. Again, IMO, I wouldn’t change the steering gear unless it was leaking. If you were to do that, and if you wanted more driver feel – the I would check out the FFI (Firm Feel) steering gear set to the firmness you desire (I have an FFI gear at home, ready to replace the leaking one in my 5th Ave.

4 You can never have enough brakes. I have parts ready to upgrade both of my cars to 11.75”, except for 15” wheels for my Volare. 11.75” rotors and 14” wheels want to occupy the same space. Most M-bodies came with 15” wheels, so that shouldn’t be a problem for you. I also recommend 11” drum brakes at same time – to keep the front/rear braking bias the same. Several here has gone to rear disk brakes – but personally, I think money can be spent elsewhere for I don’t think you get much benefit for your buck (with rear disks), in my opinion.

5 if you have traction problems then most definitely get a limited slip and put in it. Most 318 2-bbls will be fine without it. Get a built 360 4-bbl, then the limited slip is a must.

6 and 7. 30-40 year old carburetors are, well, troublesome. Same goes with Lean Burn. Lean Burn works well when working, but when not, it’s a headache. The orange box ignition system is a good standby – and parts can be found at your local parts store. Other ignition systems – the same can’t be said.
If someone would make an inexpensive 2-bbl appearing Fuel Injection setup, I would get and install two systems right away. Converting a 2-bbl car to a 4-bbl appearing FI setup has its own challenges, that is best spoken about in another thread.

8 The stock 26" radiator works very well for most people – unless you have a leak.

9 360 swap. 2, wait scratch that, 3 thumbs up. A pretty easy swap if you already have a 318 installed.

10 I recommend getting a kit with relays to light headlights off the battery or alternator (for brighter headlights). The list here goes on and on and on.
BudW

 

[GregG48213]

If you really have to change that much stuff, it's probably the wrong car. Get a late-model/used/high-mileage 300 or Charger as a daily driver and keep the M-body parked for nice days with no snow.

 

[drpreposterous]

If you really have to change that much stuff, it's probably the wrong car. Get a late-model/used/high-mileage 300 or Charger as a daily driver and keep the M-body parked for nice days with no snow.

I'm inclined to agree, Greg, that if I felt I needed all those changes, it would be smarter just to get the real deal--a modern car. But I really don't need 'em all. Rather I'm trying to prioritize the funds I do have and draw a certain line. Maybe I find a rust-free survivor for $3500 and put a few choice goodies into it. I just wanted to hear from you guys what the choice of the choice would be. Then again, maybe I'll get lucky enough to find a "done" that--given the M's underappreciated status in the world-at-large--goes for a bargain price.

 

[barbee6043]

No expert on these m,f, r, etc cars, but I have owned, restored, parted , many mopars over the last 3 decades. I vote (using your $ of course), finding a survivor, low mile car, AND that the PO has been thru all mechanicals, you know the parts that need replacing just because of age!!! Forget milage on those parts.
Remember these cars (old mopars) never bring the $ spent on them at sell time, NO matter how nice they are, all to your buying advantage. And these cars are not highly sought after, meaning more bang for your $.
Be prepared to drive AFTER the right car. Probably is not in your state. Or if lucky, it is!!
I fly out to Ca. back in the 90's, bought a completely restored 67 383 cuda. The PO was an engineer and building road race cars was his hobby. He had put 10,000 highway mile on this car. I drove it back to Missouri, NO hiccups! A great car at a great price. He had ran out of storage space and it had to go! TH condition of car you want!

 

[BudW]

I have a plan:
A decade ago, I bought a badly rusted out ’84 Oklahoma Indian reservation Gran Fury AHB. I had removed all of the salvageable police parts off of it except for a few missing or damaged beyond use odds/ends.
I’m not making or building an AHB, per se, but getting my Volare & 5th Ave ready for big block transplants for daily street use.

Going to use the ’84 police K-frame to rebuild its suspension and modify for Schumacher big block mounts. Get everything cleaned, painted and looking nice, then drop the old K-frame and roll out from under my '86 5th Ave, with the 318 and 904 transmission still attached. Then roll the new K-frame with big block and transmission right back under the car.
That said, I’m not even going to try it until I have everything ready first.

One that is done, then take my ’86 K-frame, and do same thing to it, so I can roll next big block assembly underneath the Volare wagon.

I have one engine oil cooler setup, with the exception of the hard to find fuel pump bolt. I’d like to find a bolt so I can see about making some – but not for the above mentioned projects. I want coolers, but need to work something else out – like maybe drill hole into block – not sure yet. I need to get my mock-ups up first before coming to a plan. I firmly believe keeping the timing chain well-oiled, keeps it happy.
Also going with remote engine oil filter and transmission oil filters.

Only one car needs a transmission cooler. I have most of the parts for it but missing the over the core support lines. I need an example so I can make new ones (out of stainless). My originals got cut when someone removed the radiator from core support, using a torch. It would have been faster to unbolt the fan, radiator bolts and cut the hoses – but no, they had to damage everything in the process.

The wagon will get converted to a 5 or 6-speed manual (from automatic), when the time comes.

I have the leaf springs, sway bar and 8¼” differential out of ’84. My plan is to use an 8¾” for both cars – once located, that is, but until them, the 8¼” is going in.

Once everything is done, the front suspension will stock (rubber control arm bushings) except for larger sway bar (FFI, most likely) with poly sway bar bushings, good shocks and solid K-frame mounts.

Rear suspension will also use sway bars, the older style Shock plates and good shocks.

Brakes will be B-body Cordoba 11¾” brake rotors (front) and 11” brake drums (rear).

Wheels will be police 15” wheels (width a tad bit wider). Retain the wire locking hubcaps (5th Ave) and dog dish caps (Volare), using wider tires (not decided on which tires, yet).

My current brake and fuel lines are getting a bit rusty – so while drivetrain is out of car, I was considering redoing those lines with stainless for fuel/vapor lines and normal steel for brakes. There is no worse feeling when performing a panic stop and discovering the hard way, your brake lines have rusted through (and burst).

Lots of parts gathering and more $$ to spend, on my projects and I’m not going to go in the hole ($ wise) to do it.
Your project will not be anywhere like what mine are (I suspect).
BudW

 

[Master M]

Find as an original car as you can. I was told the 1988 model year had a galvanized underbody that held up to winter salt better than other years. I think the stock ignition system, and all other systems that came with the car new make it a very safe car to drive for everyday use.