318-4bbl conversion Throttle and Kickdown help

rodrju

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Hello:

Working on converting a 1985 Diplomat 318 2bbl to 4bbl using an Edlebrock performer intake and 1406 carb.

Just didn’t think though all the details with the kickdown and throttle cable….

This would seem to be a common conversion for this car and engine.

Was wondering if anyone has a specific solution to making this intake/carb work?

Trying to make this car a reliable driver—just looking for the best solution.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance
 

Camtron

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Lokar throttle and kick down cables and the corresponding billet mount/return spring bracket for your carb.
Looks real clean under the hood, works great, install instructions are easy to follow, kick down adjustment is easy to set to make sure your trans is shifting correctly.
 

Mikes5thAve

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The throttle cable works if you either use the proper 4bbl throttle bracket or modify the 2bbl one.
Lokar kick down cable might be the easiest way to go for that part.
 

Camtron

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Thanks for the responses.

If I was to stay with the original throttle cable would something like this mount be what I am looking for?

Mancini Racing - Throttle Cable Bracket

If I use the Lokar setup for both the throttle and kickdown, I will also need to change the pedal

Using something like this?

https://www.lokar.com/assets/instructions/INS0002-ThrottleCable.pdf

Thanks for your help!
No, you don’t need to change the pedal to use a throttle cable from Lokar. Factory pedal works just fine.
The bracket you linked will work just fine, that’s their base bracket/return spring.
They also offer this billet mount cable mount for EdelBrock carbs- part #TCB-40DQ

IMG_7390.jpeg
 
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rodrju

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Lokar kickdown, throttle cable and Edelbrock carb bracket ordered. Quite expensive…but most things are these days.

Will update when I get it all installed.

In the meantime I can work on the Lean Burn delete….still need to find the right wires to tap into for the stock Chrysler Electronic Ignition conversion…I may be reaching out for more help with that.

Thank you to all that have offered a hand.
 

AHBguru

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Don't forget to use the correct coil, and figure out whether it needs to be mounted vertically or horizontally.

Check the condition of your timing chain/sprockets and dampner. If the timing set or dampner are bad, you'll never get it to run right. If you get it all sorted out, but the timing still bounces around, you need a new reluctor (eliminates spark scatter).
 

ChryslerCruiser

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If you get it all sorted out, but the timing still bounces around, you need a new reluctor (eliminates spark scatter).

Can you tell me more about how to determine if the reluctor is bad-causing timing to wander 2-3 degrees at 3000 RPM? I replaced my timing chain on the slant 6 and expected the timing to be steady as a result and am still seeing the timing move around..
 

AHBguru

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Can you tell me more about how to determine if the reluctor is bad-causing timing to wander 2-3 degrees at 3000 RPM? I replaced my timing chain on the slant 6 and expected the timing to be steady as a result and am still seeing the timing move around..

Wander is probably your dampner slipping on itself.

If the timing "bounces" sharply all over the place, that's more consistent with spark scatter, which is generally a bad distributor cap, rotor, or reluctor. Check the cap for evidence of arcing, the rotor for excessive wear (make sure its the correct rotor, too). If those are all good, then the odds are either a poor pickup coil or bad reluctor. Generally, it's best to simply replace the entire distributor with a new (not reman) assembly.
 
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