5 wire ignition vs. 4 wire

[slant6billy]

Ok. Double post resistor block (2 wires either side) verse that single post (one wire on either side). I came across a 70 Challenger last night that had the big resistor block and 5 wire mopar ignition box. I thought (I'm not sure of why), but the early 70s still used the single resistor block? this was a 383 bigblock car. roadrunninmark's 71 cuda is a small block and utilizes the single resistor block. I thought all F cars had the double until a 78 4 door had both resistor blocks I came across? Now, My dad's lean bearn 5th had neither, just the ground strap and a yearly return to the parts store for a new lean burn.

So what is better? 4 wire? 5 wire? Lean burn (ha ha)?

All the speed parts seem to be for the 4 wire (chrome box, orange box , black box, super gold at summit and Jegs).

Can the 4 wire box be used on a 5 wire car?

From what I have read, some folks (purist and punk) would match the super gold even up against the offers from accel and msd? Mopar electronic ignition was a step above the rest back in the day.

 

[badvert65]

I don't think there is a performance difference between the 4 and 5 wire STOCK boxes. In fact, the 4 wire box superseded the 5 wire one after a while. The performance boxes are different internally and can't really be compared to the stock boxes. I have installed the 4 wire stock box in place of the 5 wire box many times and left the factory 5 wire harness alone.
This system began as an option in 72 and became standard in 73 so the one the 70 Challenger was a retrofit at some time.
-Matt

 

[BHA43]

badvert is correct! The 4 pin has it's resistor built in so one side of the double isn't used, it can be replaced with a single ballast to resist voltage to the coil in the "run" position. The side that resisted the modual voltage in the 5 pin system was what usually caused the no starts in the day. Every one carried a spare!

 

[slant6billy]

Thanks guys. So anyone know why there is something about flipping the distributor wires with the other side of the box? Hence terminal 4 & 5 become 2 & 3? Here is what the plan is. I had a gold box from my collection of mopar goodies. As saving face with my budy and the damage I did to his F bodied wagon, I plan to install the gold box which is a 4 pin box onto his 5 wire harness. Sounds like it will work. Cyberslap me in the forehead it don't work or if someone has hit this headache already.

 

[NoCar340]

I always wire for the 5-pin setup. The 4-pin works fine with it since it grounds through the case; the 5th wire does nothing. That way, in a real pinch, you can use whatever you happen across at a junkyard, farmer's field, whatever. If you try to limp home with the 5th wire run directly to ground in the case of a smoked high side on the ballast, you'll burn up the box in a hurry.

The gold box is a race-only unit. It will burn up in normal driving, and very quickly. I tried to get a car home with one I had in the trunk years ago and the brand-new box failed after about half an hour. Thankfully, I was only about 4 blocks from home. Go with the chrome unit.

Electronic was actually standard in '72 on Chrysler models, and all Dodge & Plymouth high-performance engines. As stated, it became standard across the board in '73.

 

[Erics5th]

Go HEI. Better system and more reliable than the crap you get for Mopar stuff nowadays.

 

[NoCar340]

HEI is neither better nor more reliable than the factory Chrysler system. It's not a brand-preference thing, it's just been my experience. It's a nice, easy conversion, but not one I would do. My current Mopar engine project will use Ford ignition (EDIS-8), so it's not like I'm against using other manufacturer's stuff.

However, to anyone who's already running the HEI conversion, here's a little bit of advice: upgrade to a Pertronix or MSD module for your system. They're both a direct replacement that, unlike OE/stock-replacement HEI modules, are designed to run on 12V. Either one is a massive improvement over the stocker. You'll feel the seat-of-the-pants effect two ways: much better driveability and full throttle performance, plus sitting higher in the seat due a fatter wallet--better fuel economy. Been there, done that, wrote the book, had a signing party... but I still wouldn't swap out the factory Mopar system to get it.

 

[slant6billy]

Saw a Duster with the Pertronix set up. The dizzy was very clean like a trophy. I did not get a look to where it wired in, but it was a clean set up. I was not sure where it hooked in, but it looked like plug n play. We are back to the orange box set up, new throttle cable and now new Edelbrock Performer carb. This is where I go to a new thread.

 

[Erics5th]

I use a Mallory unit. I also use a relay so it gets a steady 12V. 40K miles with no failure. One of the main reasons they last better in a non-stock application (non GM) is you take the modal away from what kills it: Heat and vibration. Mine is mounted on the fender on a aluminum heat sink base, not under a distributer cap, in the rear (unless its a Buick) of the engine. Runs nice and cool. I have a friend who also used a Ford set up you mentioned. Just not into the junk Orange box's or even the other after market Chrysler EU's. Had one fail on me (Wells unit) at 65 in my old Satellite. Luckily I had a 30 year old unit in my trunk I got from a bone yard. Still on there when I sold the car! I have no problem with Mopars ignition...just the quality of the parts one can get today.

 

[slant6billy]

thanks. I had another failure (me) - so it is all on hold. I threw out my lower back. bulging disks and all. got it cuttn firewood for a budy.