8 1/4 or 8.8 550 hp w/ 833

Do I need to go bigger or will it hold


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Oldiron440

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I believe that the 4 speed dictates a strong rear axle assembly. The 8.8 Ford has gotten many foxbodys into the eights in the quarter. Look for a Explorer axle with locking diff, that's what Ford calls a limited slip with the gear you need 3.23,3.55,3.73 or 4.10, 91 to 95 drum brakes 96 up disk. Look on
used part .com easy peasy. I got mine for $150.

On mine I cut all the brackets off and sandblasted the housing I then pulled the back cover off and axles and washed the assembly in a buddy's jet wash. I had Quick performance in Ames Ia narrow and weld on 9" ends along with providing axles. I rebuilt the LD differential with a carbon fiber clutch kit from Ford.
It all went well, a strong rear axle assembly that only cost me a grand to put together.
 

Davesmopar

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If you are going 8.8 and having to narrow it, axles, all new parts and all the fab work you will be doing, why not just 9" it and be way stronger plus you have the convenience of the drop out center????
Most common rear diff and cost aren't too bad compared....

Me, I went 8.75 to keep it true to Mopar
 

Duke5A

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550HP with a manual trans? How heavy is the car? Weight is going to play a big factor in this.

Fox body cars are go carts with v8's in them.

It sounds like you're neck deep in Dana 60 territory. Chrysler used D60's in all their 833 big block cars. I don't think an 8.8 is up to the task, and an 8.25" is just going to rapidly disassemble itself on the starting line.
 

Duke5A

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I didn't explicitly need to go D60 myself with an automatic, but never wanted to touch it again. This unit came out of an early 80's F250 and was a full floater. Had the tubes cut down and changed over to a semi-float using Ford ends to run an Explorer disc brake kit. Got all the parts through Doctor Diff.

20190117_170952.jpg
 

Oldiron440

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My Ford has leafs
Saying just put a 9" in it doesn't make much sense, I've seen plenty of prepped 9" spit the pinion out the front of the car folded up driveshaft still attached.
 
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550HP with a manual trans? How heavy is the car? Weight is going to play a big factor in this.

Fox body cars are go carts with v8's in them.

It sounds like you're neck deep in Dana 60 territory. Chrysler used D60's in all their 833 big block cars. I don't think an 8.8 is up to the task, and an 8.25" is just going to rapidly disassemble itself on the starting line.

550HP with a manual trans? How heavy is the car? Weight is going to play a big factor in this.

Fox body cars are go carts with v8's in them.

It sounds like you're neck deep in Dana 60 territory. Chrysler used D60's in all their 833 big block cars. I don't think an 8.8 is up to the task, and an 8.25" is just going to rapidly disassemble itself on the starting line.
Google says 3,400
 

LSM360

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If you are going 8.8 and having to narrow it, axles, all new parts and all the fab work you will be doing, why not just 9" it and be way stronger plus you have the convenience of the drop out center????
Most common rear diff and cost aren't too bad compared....

Me, I went 8.75 to keep it true to Mopar
I like your keep it Mopar thinking
 

XfbodyX

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Ive a brand new FMJ spec S60 4:56 spooled id trade for a F 8 1/4 if it had new 3.55s and a sure grip.
 

Duke5A

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Ive a brand new FMJ spec S60 4:56 spooled id trade for a F 8 1/4 if it had new 3.55s and a sure grip.

I think @Camtron has an 8.25" with new parts. If he is looking to go big block, this would be perfect. Just swap out the 4.56 with 3.54.
 

Camtron

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I do have a AHB rear end sitting in the garage with new 11” drums, new 3.21 gears, new bearings and new suregrip. That’s a fact. Not quite the 3.55 he’s looking for.
 
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