'83 Mirada street/strip project - my official return to FMJ!
- Thread starter 72Dodge
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72Dodge
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Oh that, yeah, the power steering pressure hose connection from the steering gear runs smack into the mount. Brilliant.
Mr.Lopar
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I say leave the scoop and spoilers
it adds character and looks mean
if you do it in black plasti dip, I think it would look mean
it adds character and looks mean
if you do it in black plasti dip, I think it would look mean
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Yeah, done deal, they get a stay of execution. Not sure I'll leave that same spoiler, but the scoop and air dam on front can stay. I just need to re-work the scoop so it actually fits to the hood, and is bolted down in front also so it doesn't go flying. It's not obvious in the pics, but someone just bolted it to the hood without fitting it properly, and it looks like crap.
Black -- yes. These Miradas look totally bad in all black.
Black -- yes. These Miradas look totally bad in all black.
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72Dodge
Well-Known Member
finally, a little warmth!
It's finally warm enough to be out in the garage for a more extended period of time. Going to give the engine a quick respray tomorrow (should be over 60° in the garage) since it's been sitting around for awhile waiting for a car. It's good to be working in the garage again after this long, cruel winter.
It's finally warm enough to be out in the garage for a more extended period of time. Going to give the engine a quick respray tomorrow (should be over 60° in the garage) since it's been sitting around for awhile waiting for a car. It's good to be working in the garage again after this long, cruel winter.
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Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
And a refreshing beverage to go with it!!
72Dodge
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"Go" delayed somewhat, but that didn't stop the "whoa"... I know it's not a sexy picture, but I'm making progress... "Go" forthcoming...
jasperjacko
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Taking off is optional, stopping is mandatory!
72Dodge
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I found in the Mopar Performance Chassis book, it says to just remove the rubber isolators from the rear leaf setup and clamp it back together! I'm sure this isn't ideal, but ha anyone ever done this? Wouldn't it drop the rear a half inch (?) or so? I might try this until I'm ready to swap in the 8.75 (I don't have any time frame for that, lots more to do before that).
MiradaMegacab
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It would raise the rear of the car.
72Dodge
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Ah.. I'll have to go look at it tonight to see. (Not with the car now, going by memory). A little higher in back wouldn't be a bad thing. Free possible improvement until I commit to the new rear setup later.
jasperjacko
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What about the big locating hole in the brackets? Would they tend to move around without the bushings?
72Dodge
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Yeah, I don't know. The statement in the MP Chassis book (9th Ed) is pretty clear and simple. It doesn't go into any detail other than saying to not remove any other parts, just the rubber isolators, then clamp it back together. Whether they are oversimplifying the operation or not, I can't say.
One thing to remember about the Chassis Manual is that it's not really geared much toward street driving. I have a bunch of leaf-spring pilot adapters and leaf-spring center pins (bolts) in my basement designed specifically for this job. Get me the diameter of the pilot hole in the axle and, if you can, an approximate desired length for shorter center pins, and it's off to the post office I go once again.
Good Lord, 72Dodge... you'll save a fortune in shipping if you just move here. :icon_biggrin:
Good Lord, 72Dodge... you'll save a fortune in shipping if you just move here. :icon_biggrin:
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
This car won't be geared much toward street driving either 
It's an Aspen 8.25", that's all I can tell you right now. When I get to it, I'll certainly keep this in mind. Plenty more to go for now. Almost done with the brakes and steering, then have to get the engine/trans into their homes, work out fuel and electrical systems... THEN I'll move on to any suspension tweaks. I just happened to read this "tip" in the Chassis manual last night and thought it was interesting. I was actually looking for more fuel system info when I ran across it!
Thank you though as always! And, especially after this past winter, I think NORTH would be the wrong direction to move!
It's an Aspen 8.25", that's all I can tell you right now. When I get to it, I'll certainly keep this in mind. Plenty more to go for now. Almost done with the brakes and steering, then have to get the engine/trans into their homes, work out fuel and electrical systems... THEN I'll move on to any suspension tweaks. I just happened to read this "tip" in the Chassis manual last night and thought it was interesting. I was actually looking for more fuel system info when I ran across it!
Thank you though as always! And, especially after this past winter, I think NORTH would be the wrong direction to move!
Fair enough regarding the weather!
I think I'd worry more about making sure the axle is solidly in place before I applied a bunch of power to it. Perhaps someone here has an axle lying out of a car that they could measure the pilot hole, and we can get you set up sooner than later. Oh, yeah... you'll probably need shorter U-bolts, which I can usually get made at a local spring shop for about half of what they cost at a parts store. Five-leaf HD "cop" FMJ springs used to be pretty inexpensive there, too, without the goofy, sloppy oval spring eye up front. The bushing was round and already installed.
I think I'd worry more about making sure the axle is solidly in place before I applied a bunch of power to it. Perhaps someone here has an axle lying out of a car that they could measure the pilot hole, and we can get you set up sooner than later. Oh, yeah... you'll probably need shorter U-bolts, which I can usually get made at a local spring shop for about half of what they cost at a parts store. Five-leaf HD "cop" FMJ springs used to be pretty inexpensive there, too, without the goofy, sloppy oval spring eye up front. The bushing was round and already installed.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Hmmm... I forgot about the oval spring eye... I read about that too recently.
Yeah, I'm up for anything that doesn't become obsolete when I swap in the 8.75" eventually (unless it's a cheap fix I mean).
As soon as I make a little more progress, I'll post up more pics. Most of the things I've done so far aren't especially photo-worthy. Just a lot of sorting out half-a**** work that had been done previously.
Yeah, I'm up for anything that doesn't become obsolete when I swap in the 8.75" eventually (unless it's a cheap fix I mean).
As soon as I make a little more progress, I'll post up more pics. Most of the things I've done so far aren't especially photo-worthy. Just a lot of sorting out half-a**** work that had been done previously.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Having a little trouble removing the A-Body pitman arm on my manual steering box. I'm sure I'll get it eventually, just taking a break for awhile. But it got me thinking... what different effect would there be with the A-body pitman manual arm vs. the FMJ-body manual one? When I put one right over the other, they "go to" the same spot. Just the shape is a little different. Then it REALLy got me thinking when I saw that the two manual FMJ-body pitman arms that I have (different manufacturers) are each shaped a little different.
Would the different shapes change the steering characteristics at all, cause binding, or....? Anyone know?
Would the different shapes change the steering characteristics at all, cause binding, or....? Anyone know?
