Alignment specs

[77Volarewagon4spd]

Ok, so heres the situation, after doing a ride height adjustment myself because it sat noticably higher on the driver side the wheel was cocked to the side. So I take it to a shop to do an alignment. I pick the car up and the owner is telling me I'm lucky they have a set rate for the job because it took his tech almost 4 hours to do the job, "but its near perfect now". 2 days later I take the fam on a trip to Maine (730 miles up), the entire ride I'm wrestling with the car to keep it going in a strait line and I was dissapointed to be averaging 22.1 mpg. The next day I go to get groceries, as I'm coming out of the store I notice the wheels pointing in at the bottom(caster way out of spec) and the front tires are completely bald! I am PISSED! So I go to a local yard and get some used but almost brand new tires(still had the little whiskers on the tread) put on the front and go get a 1/2" drive ratchet and a big "gator grip" socket and lower the front end to where I thought it looked "right". The passenger torsion bar adjuster was in as far as it could possibly go, I had to use my leg to push the wrench to get it to turn out to lower the car. The ride back was much better, car went strait, tires didnt wear and mileage averaged 26.4 mpg. I take it back to the shop and he tells me I had the car loaded incorrectly. WTF!! They put it on the rack and find it needed just a little toe adjustment. So I'm looking at the spec sheet and see the after on somthing (can't remember the if its castor camber or toe) is out of spec. mechanic tells me these are the specs for a Neon, machine doesn't go back that far, but these are the correct specs for my car.
I finally got the owner to admit the torsion bars were cranked way up throwing of the entire alignment and he is willing to pay half to replace my tires with what I had on (the rears still have about 1/2 tread).

So what I need to know is, what is the correct ride height for my 77 Volare wagon and where do you take the measurement, as well as the correct alignment specs?

 

[Remow2112]

Ride height.

You measure at the lower control arm bushing. I believe it is 10.5 inches.

 

[ramenth]

Ride height:

 

[ramenth]

Acceptable Range Service Reset Camber (all models)
Maximum left to right camber differential is not to exceed 1º
within specifications - 1/4º to + 1-1/4º + 1/2º ± 1/2º Caster (all models)
Maximum left to right camber differential is not to exceed 1-1/4º
within specifications + 1/4º to + 3-3/4º + 2/2º ± 1º Toe - Total Toe in Inches 0. to 5/16" IN 1/8" IN ± 1/16" Toe - Total Toe in Degrees 0. to 62º IN .25º ± .10º Front Car Height 12" to 13" 12-1/2" ± 1/4"

 

[bremereric]

Acceptable Range Service Reset Camber (all models)
Maximum left to right camber differential is not to exceed 1º
within specifications - 1/4º to + 1-1/4º + 1/2º ± 1/2º Caster (all models)
Maximum left to right camber differential is not to exceed 1-1/4º
within specifications + 1/4º to + 3-3/4º + 2/2º ± 1º Toe - Total Toe in Inches 0. to 5/16" IN 1/8" IN ± 1/16" Toe - Total Toe in Degrees 0. to 62º IN .25º ± .10º Front Car Height 12" to 13" 12-1/2" ± 1/4"

Thanks for posting that Robert

 

[77Volarewagon4spd]

Excellent thank you!

 

[ramenth]

Just remember that these specs are meant to reduce tire wear, not to improve handling. The factory was looking to split the difference a bit; providing a decent handling car while making sure they didn't have to warranty tires at every turn.

Personally, I like to throw a bit of extra camber into everything I have. Not much, maybe a degree, so that I can balance the improvements with a car that is still within spec enough so that my wife can drive it.

On a side note, though, because of suspension components wear I almost always rotate my tires every oil change. For me that's every 3000. (And it's something I do for free for all my customers.) It helps balance out any wear, helps me keep on eye on said wear at each corner, and tires are pricey. I want as many miles out of as I can get. I'm also old school enough that I cross to the drive axle on all my rotations as long as they aren't directional tires.

If you know how to "read" your tires it can give you a clue as to what can be wrong and what to look for and help narrow down suspension components going bad.

 

[77Volarewagon4spd]

ramenth, you seem to know what you are talking about. What would you say caused wear like this?

 

[ramenth]

That thing looks just flat worn right out to me!

From the wear bars I'd say it mostly over inflation, but with some feather edging on the inside. Take a look at the wear bars on the first, second, and third tread depth, coming from the inside out. Those are worn a little more than the other two with the middle being a little more worn. Back off your next set to about 2-5# in inflation as to what the side wall says. (35# tire I run at 30-32#. 44# tire I'll run at 40-42#, 50# I run at 45#. UNLESS I'm making a long distance highway speed trip, like say, over a 100 miles, then it's full cold inflation.)

The feathering is telling me the toe is way out. Time for an experienced alignment shop go to work. Not a box store, not even a mom and pop shop who has an alignment machine (unless that's all they do is suspension work) but an experienced alignment shop.

The proper alignment shop will:

1.) Do a thorough inspection of the suspension of the car and check for loose or bad components. Including the rear.

2.) Adjust your ride height to spec and drive the car a few miles to jounce it and make sure it's stable and rides at that height.

3.) They'll take the measurement again, before putting the heads on.

4.) They'll give you a print sheet on before and after specs, showing where and how the adjustments were made for toe, camber, and caster.

5.) They won't be afraid to touch the upper control arms for camber and caster.

6.) They'll do a four wheel alignment. Yes, I know, there's no adjustments anywhere out back, but by targeting the heads all together it tracks the front in with the rear.

7.) They'll make sure all the tires are at equal pressures before beginning any adjustments.

They will not:

1.) Adjust your ride height and then start the alignment.

2.) Adjust your torsion bars up and down for camber and caster. That's the sleazy way of doing it.


And, most importantly, they'll allow you to watch, even if it's just outside the overhead door and ask questions of the technician while he's working.