body parts help and other questions

[77kickinaspen]

i have received the money from the insurance claim and am happy with the settlement amount I'm getting a door from wildcat 99% rust free holes underneath are in great shape and the only thing ima have a problem is with the window, they said its gonna come with everything window and regulator are not in the door ......how hard is it gonna be whats gonna be my strategy on this project and then aligning the door ?

got the door for 445 shipped to me or at least the nearest trucking terminal..... not sure where that is either

i got the remote mirror with the door so i will have correct mirror for the car and the door is in great shape.

ill get some pics of the damage but at least ima come out of this on top a bit with Ur guys help ill maybe even learn some stuff bout doing this stuff myself i don't wanna go to a body shop an tell em to do the regulator and window stuff but aligning the door who knows if that will over frustrate me.

 

[77kickinaspen]

having the door shipped today im exited ill work on that thing get it all primerd and shoot the sealer and hanger on. pics will be today

 

[R/T Mirada]

Hanging doors

I can only relate my experience from hanging 2 doors on a 73 camaro. If the new door shows up with the hinges still on it and they appear to be in their factory installed position keep them on and remove the old door with hinges. If not remove the old door leaving the hinges attached to the car (if the old door lined up well to begin with) install the door sans internals to keep weight down. Recruit atleast 1 stong friend to assist, use a wide pry bar I used a 2 1/2 ft long section of leaf spring to pry between door and rocker while loosening and tightening bolts moving door up and down and in and out to get the fit as good as I could before tightening everything down. It can take 2 or three tries to get everything right or a dozen or more. It can be a real PITA, my drivers door took many adjustments but my passenger door almost just fell in place.
After you get the door adjusted the best you can using the initial adjustment point on the hinges and it still ain't right, then go on to adjust the other side of the hinge that you haven't messed with yet.

As for the internals it isn't really that difficult take a few pics and notes and take your time. You allways have an example to follow on your other door if you get lost.

If you find yourself getting too frustrated walk away and come back later.

"Good afternoon 77kickinaspen. Your mission should you decide to accept it. Hanging and adjusting your own door for the first time, on your own with out the services of any so called professionals while holding back the forces of darkness that threaten automotive freedoms everywhere, is yours if you so choose. As always, should you or any of your door hanging associates are caught or killed, the Secretary of FMJ and myself will disavow any advice given and or knowledge of your actions .This message will self-destruct in "ten" seconds. Good luck, 77kickinaspen

 

[alfatar]

If you don't have any big friends you can use a little friend and balance the door on a floor jack. Back in the day i use to take the lock pin off the quarter to make it easier. It will be real easy to put back as the paint will be scored.You have to get the door square to the body first and then worry about the in and out. Check the hinges first either use th best 2 or put new bushing and pins in one set. I hate having to do thinks twice if i can help it. After you get the lines right on the door yu can mess with the glass.The first time the glass is in shut the door slowly and be sure the glass doesn't hit anything or you will make a new glass. Guess how i know.
Good luck
Mike

 

[77kickinaspen]

thanks for the help im making the order its hard when there hrs are short and they take a lil longer to find the right and best one im having them get me a 63 valiant tailgate aswell mine is totaly shot.

im going to ask an maybe make sure the door comes woith hinges my plan is to since it has trim on the door and my car did not put backin plates behind each holes and a skim coat of filler and to scuff the door and prime it and do the same to the hunge mounting area im onoly doing this once so sealer primer will stay behind there my valiant had a skim of caulking stuff around the hinge once it was mounted to the bondy i will be doing this to the aspen to help the fact that its gonna be primerd under there.

 

[alfatar]

I hope you are going to weld the backing plate to the door and seam seal it on the inside afterwood. If you don't know how to weld you can get a adhiesive from 3m or fuzor which will bond metal to metal. If you don't want to do that skip the backing,sink the holes a little and use a coat of plastic with fiberglass strands mixed into it {like marglass} and a coat of regular plastic over it. You should also check on what type of primer you are useing to see if it is waterproof or not. Some primers need paint over them as most primer will not stop a part from rusting or plastic from absorbing water and peeling on your new paint job.

 

[77kickinaspen]

its rustoleum primer sealer my trunk hasnt developed any rust spots and its been cold and wet for a few weeks

 

[alfatar]

Some paints cannot be put over rustoleum.I hate to see stuff done twice. What type of paint are you going to use for top coat?Google is your friend.

 

[77kickinaspen]

single stage nason from the dupont store.

 

[77kickinaspen]

is there any spray can primers or sealers that work with auto paint if not i geuss ima have to do the 50dollar paint idea on jallopy journal he rolls on rustoleum enamel and buffs it out sounds good to me he has a up to three year update on how it looksafter three years looks great.ill be limited on colors but at least i wont have to worry about paint lifting this kinda makes me angry i was really hoping to go at my own pase with the primer is there any way to make it work ? i planned on sanding it before painting but not off but a scuff like 400 then paint the single stage.

 

[alfatar]

You probally should talk to our paint salesman t be sure. Most primers with a hardner are waterproof. They do make a primer that can be used with a roller but I don't know much about it. Also the paints with a hardner can make you real sick if you are not carefull.Also jsut because of a limited selection of colors from rustoleum you can put as an example red and blue to make purple.Add white it will make it lighter and black will make it darker.Add a little at the time in a big bucket. Mix extra so you will have it in case something bad happens.

 

[77kickinaspen]

how would u go about spraying rustoleum paint how much would u thinner it down50/50theres tons of videos of rustoleum paint jobe but most r roll on im not gonna do this if im gonna use rustoleum paint ima at least shoot it, so nason wont go over the primer sealer.....i saw lots of posts searching last night most people had problems with shooting over oil based red rusty metal primer am i still not in the clear?

my plan is do put some gloss black with the darkest blue they have and see how that turns cus i wanted dodge ram dark patriot blue so as close as possible

 

[alfatar]

http://www.rustoleum.com/cbgresourcecenter.asp?sn=sur

Rustoleum has a primer which can be used under their paint. It looks like i is clear but i am guessing you could tint it if you want.A primer is used over bare metal and a sealer is used to make a even base to put color over.Also on there web site it showes thinning it with acrtone.I am not sure how much to thin it as i have never used it. Get a good mask so you don't get sick.I would use your old door experament on it for the color and also try to roll it. After you color sand and buff it it may surprise you.Rember prep is more important the the type and method of paint. Try also putting blue into black instead of black into blue.T int a little at the time. HAVE FUN. Since im not good on the computer the link may not work.
Good luck
Mike

 

[77kickinaspen]

yes thank you u have had much more exp then me painting even if u haven't used this product u r helping me , my body guy said cus i was jus scuffing the old paint job to scuff with like 100grit and do a filler primer or a sealer over the old stuff and then paint it.

i was searching the site it seems like they have come along way in innovation then they used to it doesn't say that there paint is UV resistant but it doesn't say it aint......i am Polly going this way and experiment its not like it can looks worse and after staying up last night till 1am looking and reading pages online i ran into a post of a guy that rolled on his corvair paint and did updates 3month 6,9,1 year 2,3 and the paint still looked great he put 10coats and no clear and he used white but damn not bad for his 50bucks but i would go for there better line then he did and mix like u said . i wanna spray rather then roll but have two dodge dart doors sitting outside i could try both, it said to thin with 100% spirits write now I'm going through a issue on interior on my valiant i used a paint and they don't make it anymore i cant track down a match to the plasti kote classic lacquer bright red 346

alfatar what do u think about me painting the car with the sealer and using the rustoleum boat paint it says fiberglass steel and wood and its for use under the water part of ur boat the blue is what im looking for

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=6

or this it is uv resistant and for use in extreme weather with metal

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=4

 

[MiradaMegacab]

Scuff with 100?

 

[77kickinaspen]

100 grit sandpaper , srry spell check dont like my numbers next to words

 

[alfatar]

100 is too agressive to use unless you have pits.You will have to get rid of the sand scratches you put in. I am thinking you should use around 360 grit or so.Make sure you get a good wax and tar cleaner before you do any sanding. Wash it first with soap and water the cleaner. The cleaner will also hlp you check for waves in the panel.
Notice that the paint you picked the primer is recommended for wood and fibeglass not metal. Maybe e mail them and ask what their recommendations to use.On h.a.m.b. there are a bunch of threds on doing this. Most are grouchy old men but you can learn alot if you search it out.Not to be a pia but there is a difference between primer and sealer each will do a different thing. I don't want you to ask for the wrong stuff because it will waste your money and time.
As far as matching your color red most paint suppliers have a camera to used to get a color match as a lot of the new cars have more then 1 formular to match the paint. You will need a clean polished place they can get at to use it.. They should be able to mix up some paint in a spray can for you so you don't need a spray gun. Just a fyi mason is a cheap dupont line.

Mike

 

[77kickinaspen]

well prolly kto gonna shoot the (mason) i thought it was nason single stage?.......hard to get a full wording on the phone.
i thought that too i used 320 and the sealer has been looking great ive painted some parts on the valiant with some of the sealer then the aint didnt have any scratches came out really good.

my plan was to sand down the sealer before i paint the outside with 400grit????? and then shoot the car if i use rustoleum id wanna shoot it with my spray gun rollering requires like 10coats ima use metal paint forget the boat paint.
ive shot my spare tire for the aspen with red oxide oil primer and rust stop oil based black came out fantastic it was really smooth then shot it with some gloss and was super happy its prolly not as durable as car paint but it stands up great.