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C body 8 3/4 in the doba?

Transmissions and Rear Ends

  1. Jnfbodyguy83

    Jnfbodyguy83 Well-Known Member

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    I happen to find an 8 3/4 on craigslist the other night. Its out of a 65 fury III, and thought to myself this would be great to drop in. Then it dawned on me its a c body car. Is it possible to drop a 8 3/4 C body rear in our cars or would i be looking to have it shortened to work?
     
  2. 4speedjim

    4speedjim Well-Known Member

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    You'd need to shorten it. How complete is it? They're spendy if not complete. Instead of shortening it, possibly use a modern wheel that has the offset way out near the body line. Is that Positive offset? Like your 300. Lots of axle width info online. Try Googling it. IIRC its about 4" wider than what you want. Make sure that its 5 on 4.5 axles. It should be. What you want is a '66-'67 Satellite 8 3/4. You have 59.5" wms to wms (wheel mount surface). 8.25's are a good alternative also, if your not building a 600 hp sticky tire car. Disc or drum brake, handles good hp, light, cheap, used in Jeeps. Ford Exploder 8.8 axles are also an easy cheap hd swap. Exploders have 31 spline axles and Posi's are plentiful. Complete w/calipers and Posi are $200, everywhere. 3.20-3.73s are common, 3.08-4.10 where used.
     
  3. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    Like 4speed said, too wide. It's about 5" or so wider than a stock f-body. I've got a '71 b-body 8.75 in mine and it's borderline too long, being about 3" wider than stock. I have 15x8 wheels in the rear with a custom backspacing so they're basically a 15x7 with the extra inch towards the inside. The tires would JUST clear the fender lip, if the suspension could ever go that low. Only thing i had to do was move the spring perches to line up with the springs. All my measurements are approximate only.
     
  4. Jnfbodyguy83

    Jnfbodyguy83 Well-Known Member

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    It's full rearend drum to drum. The doba does have 8 1/4 in it now, I was also considering doing the sure grip conversion on that since I'm not trying to make a high horsepower tire shredder. The guy wants 800 for it. It's probably one of the cheapest suregrips I've seen so far.
     
  5. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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  6. Jnfbodyguy83

    Jnfbodyguy83 Well-Known Member

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  7. 4speedjim

    4speedjim Well-Known Member

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    Since you dont need an 800HP axle, that doesn't fit, Id invest in your 8 1/4. IMO $800 is way high for any 8 3/4 over 60". With the money to buy it, have it shortened, upgraded and brackets installed, you could have a new 60" disc brake Strange D60 built.
     
  8. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    ’65-68 C-Body 8¾” differential specs are:
    56.750” housing flange to housing flange
    46.00” perch center to perch center
    61.75” drum to drum

    FMJ differential specs are:
    54.340” housing flange to housing flange
    44.46” perch center to perch center
    58.5” drum to drum

    The width difference between the two differentials are 3.25” (total) / 1.625” (per side).
    If a person was to purchase wheels with more than normal offset, the width of the C-body differential might not matter.
    I would pay a bit more to get the housing cut down with new ends welded on. Then find a pair of axles for appropriate year B-body width (or get a new/stronger pair of axles made) - but that is just me.

    The perches, on the other hand, will need to be cut off and re-welded on- but that is not a biggie.
    BudW.
     
    4speedjim likes this.
  9. Jnfbodyguy83

    Jnfbodyguy83 Well-Known Member

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    That's not a bad idea. thanks for the info.