Doing Leaf Springs: What do I need to buy?

89.Fifth

89.Fifth

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So this summer I plan to get new tires and then do leaf springs. Besides the leaf springs themselves, what do I need to get to do this?

I think I can probably reuse the spring U-Plates but anyway I want to put together a complete list of parts to swap springs. Thanks guys.
 
When I replaced the Leaf springs in my '84 5th, I used these guys.

Leaf Springs, Coil Springs and Suspension | ESPO Springs n Things

I emailed them for a quote, and ended up calling one of the sales reps. She was extremely helpful, and they knew what was needed for my car. I believe I replaced the rear shackles, all the hardware, and all the rubber bits. The folks at springs n things had everything I needed.

I also highly recommend upgrading to a 5-leaf spring. They give the car a firmer feel, and you can load more junk into it without a lot of sag.
 
rcmaniac791 said:
When I replaced the Leaf springs in my '84 5th, I used these guys.

Leaf Springs, Coil Springs and Suspension | ESPO Springs n Things

I emailed them for a quote, and ended up calling one of the sales reps. She was extremely helpful, and they knew what was needed for my car. I believe I replaced the rear shackles, all the hardware, and all the rubber bits. The folks at springs n things had everything I needed.

I also highly recommend upgrading to a 5-leaf spring. They give the car a firmer feel, and you can load more junk into it without a lot of sag.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I ordered 5-leafs from Espo once and while the service was good and the springs looked nice, my car sat crooked a month later. It might have been because I ordered a custom arch and one spring didn't hold the arch. I'm not sure. This time I'm going to try Stengel Bros in Pennsylvania, mostly because they do leaf springs for a lot of stuff and I can drive over there if I have problems.

I should call them too.
 
5-leaf springs are great - but might not be worth the additional money for most of our forum members.
Most cases, re-arching the springs is all you need.

I would recommend replacing the rear shackle bushings (fairly cheap to purchase and you have to remove them anyway). You will need a total of 8 bushing halves (about $6-7 (US) per side, at RockAuto.com).

Personally – I would not reuse the U-bolts, and it might be faster to cut them off than the extra work to remove existing U-bolt nuts.

If reusing the Iso-clamp system, then you need 4x of 4-3/8” long, 7/16”-20 thread and 3” circle (inner diameter) U-bolts.
If going to older style shock plates, then the U-bolts will need to be 7” long, ½”-20 thread and 3” circle (diameter) U-bolts, also 4x.
On either, the length doesn’t have to be exact – but needs to be somewhat close.

The front leaf spring bushings are a pain to press in/out, but rarely go bad. Look for any deep cracks or rubber separation. Minor cracks are OK.

If planning on re-arching existing springs yourself, you will also need a new center bolt (per side), new clips/clamps (helps keep leaves in place, and possibly new leaf liners (pads that go between leafs to keep the metal on metal squeak you hear when going over bumps). These parts can be bought at most auto part stores or online.

Lastly, if retaining the Iso-clamp system, I would recommend tossing the rubber pads and go with polyurethane – or even better, just get rid of the Iso-clamp system and replace with older shock plates. The ride will be so much better and that alone will raise rear of car about 1/2".
BudW
 
Check the rear mount,now!
They are known to rot right off the frame. Then the spring pops up under the frame (actually, the car falls down), and then the car sits crooked.
The bolts are also known to seize in the frame-nuts.So if you start lubing them now, and working them loose, it will make unbolting them later,a breeze.
Same with the U-bolts; run a thread chaser up and down them,to clean them up. This will make removing the nuts a lot easier.
The front perches rarely make trouble.
Later, when reinstalling these, I anti-seize everything. Then if you need to remove them 5 or even 10 years later, it's easy to do. That stuff is amazing!
Altho NOT recommended,I anti-seize the lugnuts too. If you do this, you will have to check the torque on your wheelnuts a couple of days later.Sometimes they work loose. It just makes removing the nuts so much easier and the studs last forever. Well 48 plus years anyway, on my 68.
 
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