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After reading some of this I’m beginning to think I’ll just keep the thing. Paid $75 for it.
Removing the impact bar from the door will, of course, remove all side impact protection but, it will also make the door really flimsy. If they're never opened, like on a dedicated race car, it'd be fine. Open it up though, and it'll probably sag and twist big time. Coupe's tend to get a twist in them, even when unmodified, simply due to the length and weight, and the fact there's no window frame to stiffen the door. Ever see F-bodies where the lower rear corner of the door sticks out and no amount of adjusting will get it to fit? Mine were like that. Cutting welds, a big diagonal ratchet strap to un-twist it, then reweld. So far, so good!
Asp, not trying to contradict you by any means, but if you cut the bar about 3-4 inches in on each side and remove the middle, you get the weight gain and as well if you have rust free solid doors ive noticed no loss in rigidity.
The door skins themselves are surprisingly thick and dense compared to say a front fender.
Thats been my experience.
But yea, if you get t boned, your the t bone So on a street car driven alot or with family, ect id leave them in.
No problem, contradict! I had the "twist" problem on my car and also remember the parts car I had was the same way and, not being rust free probably had a hand in it also.
All I know is, those doors weigh a ton Definitely not a one person job to hang them on the car, unless your a thick necked oaf named Gunter.
Dammit, now I got to go try to twist some doors for flew vs no flex. Another thing to not though is I put these skins on the doors and I welded some on the inside the factory didnt.
Maybe the drag/circle track guys might have some input as well.
Now, explain this, the fiberglass doors are made very much like an oem door with 1/4 inch pads in addition to the normal thickness for the door hinges I recall a hair thicker in the striker mount area but they seem to have no issues?
Maybe overall weight vs gravity????
Gravity is a heck of a thing! When I got my doors back into shape, you could see the inner shell and outer skin move independently of each other. Like you, I have them tacked and along with the repairs to the bottoms and rear corners (inner and outer sheet metal), they're probably a lot stiffer than original now.
Guess I used a come-a-long, not a ratchet strap but that's picking nits. As they were, the front lined up fine, the rear top was good. The farther down you went on the rear edge, the farther it stuck out. Below the lower body line, it was a good 1/2" out fro the 1/4 panel. Drivers door was the worst one, for obvious reasons.