First Leaf Spring Replacement, am I prepared?

krytellan

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Hi all,

Been gone a while but I'm back now. In a few weeks I am going to undertake the leaf spring replacement for my '80 Volare wagon. I already have the springs (5-leaf, all good there) as well as all of the hangers involved (thanks Deconstructor Jim!). I will be re-using the stock plate that hangs from the axle. I will also be replacing the rear shocks, though I don't think that adds any relevance here.

My question comes down to preparedness. I will be purchasing 2 sets of these bushings and two sets of these bushings to do the job. The new springs have the round front hole rather than the oval one and comes packed with the busing and metal sleeve for the bolt. Am I properly prepared for the whole job, ability notwithstanding? I know I may need to get new U-clamps after they come off and will repaint the plate. Any particular recommendation for the black paint I use for the hardware?

Thanks all. I'll have a limited window once I start and am trying to identify anything I may have missed now.
 

jasperjacko

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Does anyone know where to get factory style u-bolts that are more flat where they wrap around the axle?
 

krytellan

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So then it looks like I have all of the parts covered? Can anyone recommend a particular good paint or are there any opinions on that?
 

krytellan

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True that. I was actually just thinking that I should look into getting some of that rust neutralizer that I read about on this forum a while back to take care of the rear portion of the frame while I'm in there. The underneath is actually in great shape due to what I assume was some form of undercoating done at time of purchase, but the rear of the car behind the differential is not as great as the rest of the car.
 

krytellan

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I was hoping someone could let me know how the bushings should fit into the above mentioned replacement springs. The front eyelets are round and apparently come pre-packed with bushings but the rear does not. I bought a set of rear bushings from Moog and they fit loosely into the rear eyelets with a small amount of wiggle room when in. I was wondering how these bushings should fit as I have heard from other posters that the eyelets can sometimes run too big. Should I have to pound the bushings in with a mallet or should I be able to easily slide them in and out. It does stop at the outer lip of the bushing, so it doesn't get lost in the hole, I was just wondering how snug the 2-piece bushings should be in the eyelet.
 

krytellan

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If that's not the case is it necessary for me to go down to John R Spring (which happens to be 15 minutes from me) with my springs and figure out a resolution with them? Whether it be bigger bushings, smaller eyelets, or whatever? Or is there an acceptable range of looseness?
 

NoCar340

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The shackle bolts (all four) should be torqued to spec with the car sitting on its wheels supporting all its weight. The bushings will compress against each other and fill the wiggle room. I cannot stress how critical it is that the car be on its weight and the bolts be tightened to the correct torque. Doing it with the car in the air or just clamping them "tight enough" will preload the suspension at full jounce and/or dramatically shorten the bushing life.

I would forego any "magic paints" such as POR-15, Chassis Saver, or any of the other equivalents. They do not live up to the hype nor are they impervious to anything. I had my own bad experience with 'em, but worse yet I'm watching a six-year-old home restoration that was extremely labor-intensive quite literally fall apart because of the stuff rather than just in its presence. The poor guy now has some very-serious rust with which to contend because the POR-15 held moisture to the steel despite painstaking preparation work.
 
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