Flooding on the 5th

[Master M]

Well the 5th won't leave the garage on its own power. It started fine yesterday and I got out of the car for a second, and it idled slow enough and died. I tried a restart and it was completely flooded. I let it sit for a whole day. I came back today and it still acts and smells flooded when I try to start it. I was able to keep it running for a couple minutes but it ran real bad and very rich ( lots of smoke ) the whole couple minutes. This car has 32,000 orig miles. Everything tune up has been performed, carb rebuilt by a professional before I got it. ( scary ) although the outside of the carb looks new.
This has been happening on a smaller scale since I have owned it, but eventually it would start and run very smooth. So I have no experience with the electronic mixture solenoid. Could that be the problem or should I look for a stuck or gas soaked carb float or sticking needle ? ( 6280 carb ) Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I would examine the choke system first.

 

[BudW]

You might want to add your car type on your signature page OR describe your car for each thread.

Based off of his description, I think the problem is fuel level related, than choke related.
That said, I suspect the plastic float absorbed fuel (and sunk) or trash is keeping the needle/seat from sealing off the fuel.

The computer controlled carburetor aspect will not cause this problem.


What you need is a second person to help OR purchase a remote starter button.
Hold choke blade open and crank engine over while looking down carburetor throat. You are not trying to start car, but if it does – don’t worry.
What you are looking for is fuel leaking from (anywhere) inside of carburetor throat – except for the accelerator pump jets (only when you push throttle back).
I suspect you will see fuel dripping from the booster venturi’s or along (inside) side of carburetor. If so, the fuel level is too high due to bad float or needle/seat problem.

The needle and seat can be accessed by removing main fuel line (use two different end wrenches!!!), then unscrew the seat from front of carburetor.
You can’t take it apart (or shouldn’t be able to) the needle/seat assembly.
You can test the needle/seat using some water and your fingers. Light pressure only when pushing on the pin.

Once needle assembly is out, you take a small screwdriver and insert into the hole of the recently removed needle assembly. You should be able to push towards the rear of car (not far) and with a little bit of effort, push the float tang rearwards (downwards) and it should push screwdriver right back out.
If you can, then float should be good.
If you can’t (lightly) push it back, then float it has sunk.

Ethanol will kill a float in no time. Gasoline will as well, but it takes decades to do so.
BudW

 

[Master M]

You might want to add your car type on your signature page OR describe your car for each thread.

Based off of his description, I think the problem is fuel level related, than choke related.
That said, I suspect the plastic float absorbed fuel (and sunk) or trash is keeping the needle/seat from sealing off the fuel.

The computer controlled carburetor aspect will not cause this problem.


What you need is a second person to help OR purchase a remote starter button.
Hold choke blade open and crank engine over while looking down carburetor throat. You are not trying to start car, but if it does – don’t worry.
What you are looking for is fuel leaking from (anywhere) inside of carburetor throat – except for the accelerator pump jets (only when you push throttle back).
I suspect you will see fuel dripping from the booster venturi’s or along (inside) side of carburetor. If so, the fuel level is too high due to bad float or needle/seat problem.

The needle and seat can be accessed by removing main fuel line (use two different end wrenches!!!), then unscrew the seat from front of carburetor.
You can’t take it apart (or shouldn’t be able to) the needle/seat assembly.
You can test the needle/seat using some water and your fingers. Light pressure only when pushing on the pin.

Once needle assembly is out, you take a small screwdriver and insert into the hole of the recently removed needle assembly. You should be able to push towards the rear of car (not far) and with a little bit of effort, push the float tang rearwards (downwards) and it should push screwdriver right back out.
If you can, then float should be good.
If you can’t (lightly) push it back, then float it has sunk.

Ethanol will kill a float in no time. Gasoline will as well, but it takes decades to do so.
BudW

Thanks for the reply. You were right on with the needle and seat. I removed the needle and seat and had to look closely at it. There was a clear kind of gunk the needle was seating against. I sprayed it out with carb clean and then compressed air. I put it back in and it works excellent. All the fuel lines have been flushed and replaced, new fuel pump, fuel filter and carb rebuild. Any idea where a clear gunky compound came from. Possibly the new fuel pump ?

 

[BudW]

I doubt it came from fuel pump.

The fuel pump has a rubber diaphragm, a metal spring and check valves (incoming and outgoing) – and nothing else.

The fuel, rubber fuel hoses and/or fuel filter is the most likely source of the contamination (emphasis on the fuel).

If you use Ethanol for fuel, then I would recommend replacing the fuel filter more often - for that stuff does a (bad) number on rubber and other components.

If fuel pump is making pressure, passes capacity test and is not leaking (internal or external) - then there is NO reason to change the fuel pump, unless you have extra money to burn.

If you do have extra money to burn, let me know. We can become good friends.



Another possibility is (most noticeable with cheap fuels) is after a LOT of fuel has evaporated (time and time again), there can be a layer of crust (sediment? Not sure of official term) that cakes onto the bottom of fuel bowl - much like what barnacles do to a boat. This is normal and seldom effects anything short term.
BudW

 

[AJ/FormS]

I call it oxidation
Clear gunk is not something I have ever seen in a fuel system, so Ima thinking it came in through the cap at fill up. Hopefully it is a one-time thing.
I have seen a clear filmy substance form by long-term solvent action on certain silicon sealers, not RTVs.I have also seen it inside cheap plastic see-through fuel filters where they use it inside to glue-seal the pleated paper element to the case.