furiousman

Police Cars

  1. furiousman

    furiousman Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2014
    Location:
    nc
    :icon_question:

    after replacing the alt,coil,ignition switch elec, brain,choke thermosatat and choke pul off my gran fury 87 model 318-p it still will not stay runing after warming up , it still wants to shut dont want to keep running after it warms up,, i've been without a car now for two or more months i need a car bad can any one tell what i havent dont yet to fix prob.
     
  2. Mr.Lopar

    Mr.Lopar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    594
    Likes Received:
    45
    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2011
    Location:
    sticks of WI
    Pluged cats?
     
    furiousman likes this.
  3. slant6billy

    slant6billy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,871
    Likes Received:
    571
    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2011
    lean burn computer? Can you adjust up the RPMs and or the idle. Sounds like your choke opens and the fuel is not adequate. I'm just taking a guess. Any vacuum leaks? Put a Vac tester on the port on the brake booster. Something is dropping off after your engine comes up to temp. How old is your carb? Bad rebuild did that to me in 94/95, but only from a dead stop or stopping on an uphill.
     
    furiousman likes this.
  4. Mr.Lopar

    Mr.Lopar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    594
    Likes Received:
    45
    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2011
    Location:
    sticks of WI
    Pretty sure if it was the lean burn computer it wouldnt run at all, at least thats what happened to my mothers old 5th ave
     
    furiousman likes this.
  5. My imp

    My imp Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,102
    Likes Received:
    28
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2012
    Location:
    Brunswick, Ohio
    Is this in the drive? Or while driving? Anyway something got into the tank? Could be stuff wrapping around sock, that settles back into the tank once it stalls. I.e. leaves, sediment, etc.. When I worked for Fla. DOT, the inmates used to drop rags in the fuel tanks. The trucks ran perfect, until the rag wrapped around the pickup & starved the engine. When it stalls, look down the horn & pump the throttle cable once or twice to see if you have gas. Pull a plug wire, & see if you have spark. I've seen ignition modules, pick up coils, etc.. Work fine until they get warm. You already replaced the coil, so that's not it.
     
    furiousman likes this.
  6. NoCar340

    NoCar340 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,240
    Likes Received:
    176
    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2013
    Location:
    Upper MI
    It sounds like a classic vacuum leak to me. It'll run while warming up because of the extra fuel from the choke. Check any hose that goes to the carb or manifold that doesn't carry coolant for cracks or rot. Look for any broken vacuum fittings. Start with the big ones, namely PCV and power brake. Replace anything questionable. Break out a can of carb cleaner or flammable brake clean, attach the tube and start hunting with precisely-placed squirts. Squirt it at the carb base gasket, intake manifold to cylinder head junction, and of course When the engine picks up speed, you've found your leak.
     
    furiousman likes this.
  7. MiradaMegacab

    MiradaMegacab Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,605
    Likes Received:
    409
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    Location:
    Long Island NY
    If it runs when the choke is on but dies after warming up, I'd check for plugged up idle circuits.
     
    furiousman likes this.
  8. jasperjacko

    jasperjacko Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,491
    Likes Received:
    191
    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2011
    Same here.
     
    furiousman likes this.
  9. Captain Caravelle

    Captain Caravelle Moderator--Mopar Maniac

    Messages:
    10,789
    Likes Received:
    1121
    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2012
    Location:
    Hogtown, Ontario
    Idle too low?
    Choke not opening?
     
    furiousman likes this.
  10. furiousman

    furiousman Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2014
    Location:
    nc
    i put new pick up in it as as well as new distrib houseing new coil replaced brian were the module sits and new alt carb shop said carb is working.choke pull of as well as a chock tem thurmastate.???????????
     
  11. NoCar340

    NoCar340 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,240
    Likes Received:
    176
    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2013
    Location:
    Upper MI
    It's a vacuum leak.
     
    furiousman likes this.
  12. furiousman

    furiousman Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2014
    Location:
    nc
    when bumping motoer it seems to have a ssssssssss sound but can't find it
     
  13. furiousman

    furiousman Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2014
    Location:
    nc
    well today my son and wife check the compression and this what we found / cyl's 1,3,5,7 are 154 to 155/ cyl's 2,4,6,8 are as follows cyl 2=180/cyl 4=150/ cyl 6=140/ cyl 8=170 are numbers within range or not please help

     
  14. alfatar

    alfatar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    89
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2012
    I think they are suppose to be 10% of each other but that is not the problem . Agree with a vacuum leak. Start it up and put your hand over the carb to seal it up. The car should stall right away. Spray either around the intake and carb and you should be able to find it.
     
    furiousman likes this.
  15. ramenth

    ramenth Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    906
    Likes Received:
    96
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    Location:
    Beaver Dams, NY
    Just a question... how many times and in how many threads are you gonna post this? Keep it all in the same thread and people will be able to help you a lot better.

    As has been suggested spray it down with a little WD, PBlaster... whatever (I prefer carb cleaner) and don't forget to hit your vacuum hoses, too. Check with a vacuum chart and make sure the hoses are hooked up in the right spot.
     
    furiousman likes this.
  16. alfatar

    alfatar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    89
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2012
    Also recheck the low speed idle and timing. Instead of throwing parts at it start at the basics. I am still thinking a vacuum leak and probably a cracked hose someplace. Don't forget to check the heater hoses and brake booster.
     
  17. My imp

    My imp Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,102
    Likes Received:
    28
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2012
    Location:
    Brunswick, Ohio
    I tend to suggest the lunatic fringe problems, assuming that all the basics have been tried. Another easy one is to physically "twist" the carb. Fasteners tend to loosen with age, gaskets & hoses tend to deteriorate with age. Did you possibly break or reconnect a vacuum hose while changing all the parts? I was always the guy in the shop who got the ones that no one else could figure out, so my final findings tended to be "out there". Twice I got GM vehicles that "everything has been checked or changed", but the battery kept going dead. Both were seat belt related. One had a bad inertia switch, one had the seat,belt wire pinched under the seat track. As long as no one sat in the drivers seat, it charged fine. As soon as you sat down, no charge!
     
  18. furiousman

    furiousman Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2014
    Location:
    nc
    well all the problems started on our way to tennessee last summer. all was well driving fine then she sputtered i (his son) thought maybe it isnt used to high altitudes it just adjusting to the area so we kept on. then it started dying every few miles. got up to tennessee and she started sucking fuel up like it was nothing. well on the way home it spit and sputtered and was really blowing some black smoke out the exhaust and it wouldnt idel. so we took to a shop and rebuilt it or so we thought turns out they gave us a canadian rebuild kit :/. anyway it took 9 hours just to get back when it should have took 3. needless to say shes been down since august and im at wits end cause i am building my first car and get confused between mopar and oldsmobile
     
  19. NoCar340

    NoCar340 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,240
    Likes Received:
    176
    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2013
    Location:
    Upper MI
    There have been a number of suggestions for quicker, easier diagnostic procedures that will find the issue than testing the compression. Seriously, you could have tried all of the suggestions offered in less time than it took to run a compression test. No way could a compression issue cause the problem you describe, hence the reason nobody suggested it.

    I realize you're not that experienced with this stuff, but you've been given some great ideas here, none of which cost more than a few bucks to check. You keep asking but you haven't apparently tried anything yet. The car ain't gonna fix itself while you're discussing the problem.

    The black smoke is new; it should've been mentioned in the first post. It sounds like overfueling (running way too rich). That leads me to believe that "we took to a shop and rebuilt it,"--I assume means the carburetor--didn't work out so well. It sounds like the carb is leaking fuel directly into the intake. With the car ice cold, back the idle screw out far enough that it's no longer touching the throttle lever at all. Pump the carb once to set the choke, and run the engine up to temperature. Just when it sounds like it's ready to stall, throttle it swiftly with your hand and make sure it drops off high idle. Let the car stall, then look down the carburetor throat. If you see fuel on the butterflies, it's time to rebuild the carburetor (again?).

    Do NOT go into a parts store and tell them you need a carb kit for an '87 anything. Give them the carburetor brand and the number off the carb and no other information. The carb number (called the "list number") should be stamped into the carb, or look for a metal tag under one of the screws. "I need a rebuild kit for a [carb brand], number [carb number]" should be all you tell them. Simply put, unless you bought this car new, you have no idea if the carb was changed at some point. They're not "all the same", as carburetors changed from year to year, and often between the same engine in different models. If they can't find a rebuild kit by carburetor make and list number, find a different parts store! Don't fall back on "Well, it's an '87 Plymouth Gran Fury..." since it seems that didn't work the first time.

    I worked in parts for nearly 30 years. I refused to look up carburetor parts by vehicle application. I told them to get me a carb number every time, because carburetor kits are not returnable if opened--and the customer has to open it to find out he got the wrong item. Some carb kits can cost over $100, and nobody wants to eat that mistake.
     
  20. MiradaMegacab

    MiradaMegacab Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,605
    Likes Received:
    409
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    Location:
    Long Island NY
    Float level too high or needle and seat stuck open causing flooding?