Heavy duty Tie rods and sleeves for our cars

[mchartier105]

So, the time came to change my steering pieces, and upon some research, I found out that our cars share the same length (Ours are .25" shorter) tie rod sleeves from a '73 Charger.

Just wanted to let everyone know that the heavy duty version they make fit like a glove The parts I used were QA1 52324 sleeves and the stock 11/16 tie rod ends for our cars.

QA1 Heavy-Duty Tie Rod Sleeves 52324

 

[BudW]

¼” difference is not worth arguing about – just as long as you have room for the Jam Nuts and a little room to spare.
BTW, you can get thinner Jam Nuts, if needed.

Looking nice!

Is that blue paint on your drag link/center link?
BudW

 

[mchartier105]

¼” difference is not worth arguing about – just as long as you have room for the Jam Nuts and a little room to spare.
BTW, you can get thinner Jam Nuts, if needed.
Looking nice!

Is that blue paint on your drag link/center link?
BudW

I've been using this setup for a few days now and its been working great! Steering is more firm feeling and I noticed the car shakes a lot less when I'm going at high speeds.
And yes it is! I had some laying around and I thought it would look good haha

 

[MiradaMegacab]

Is that a castle nut on the pitman to center link?
I'm viewing on a phone with a cracked screen......it almost looks like a locknut with minimal thread engagement.

 

[mchartier105]

Is that a castle nut on the pitman to center link?
I'm viewing on a phone with a cracked screen......it almost looks like a locknut with minimal thread engagement.

Yep its a locknut, the threads are just pushing past the nylon end

 

[MiradaMegacab]

I've never seen a pitman arm without a castle nut and cotter pin.......
I would drill and safety wire that...

 

[mchartier105]

I've never seen a pitman arm without a castle nut and cotter pin.......
I would drill and safety wire that...

No, I used the nylock nut and threadlocker by choice, I fucking hate castle nuts lol

 

[BudW]

View attachment 19659 View attachment 19660

Looking nice!

I could be mistaken, but it appears your center link might be on backwards (Left to Right).
BudW

 

[mchartier105]

Looking nice!

I could be mistaken, but it appears your center link might be on backwards (Left to Right).
BudW

To be honest I didn't know there was a difference lol both ends are the same and it fit in fine, no rubbing on the oil pan or anything like that.

 

[jasperjacko]

I would like to see some real testing that shows if those tie rod sleeves really do anything.

 

[mchartier105]

I would like to see some real testing that shows if those tie rod sleeves really do anything.

I've seen stuff showing the solid design does actually "bend" less under heavy use than the slit designed sleeve, I'm not sure the 9/16 vs 11/16 makes a huge difference though, but they sure look cool

 

[BudW]

The 11/16” vs. 9/16” versions – there is not much if any difference in the two items, which can be usefully measured.
The sleeves are a different story and there are a few different magazine articles about the sleeves flexing when driving.

With good sleeves – I’m not even sure a person needs the 11/16” tie rods. If the cost is about the same, though, you might as well use them.

If you think about it, the tie rod is solid. The factory sleeve is flat steel, rolled to make (roughly) 7/8th a circle - that is not even wielded together.
If the tube was wielded, then it would be a lot stronger than it currently is. For a normal person, it is fine. For someone like me who pushes the limit, it is not fine.


On a different note: I just got new tie rods for my ’97 Dodge ¾ ton 2*4 diesel pickup. I didn’t measure them but if I was to guess, they are about 1” in diameter and could easily be used for deadly weapons (hand held or tossed). I think you could drop a tie rod at a 4 foot drop and it might go right though a watermelon (not tested). One tie rod weights in as much as all 4 tie rod ends and sleeves for an FMJ.

BudW

 

[kkritsilas]

If the FMJs needed to control the weight thar your 3/4 ton truck does, the tie rods would be closer in diameter.

 

[BudW]

My pickup only weighs in at 8,800 pounds, with me in it (and not much else).

I want to weight them to find out, but I suspect the LCA's weigh about 100 pounds each.

A set of used control arms were purchased to overhaul and to get painted all nice and such, so I can swap 'em out soon (at 250k miles, it’s all wore out).

I don’t like vehicles down for an extended time – or have neighbors complain about a vehicle up on wheel stands for any length of time.
BudW

 

[mchartier105]

My pickup only weighs in at 8,800 pounds, with me in it (and not much else).

I want to weight them to find out, but I suspect the LCA's weigh about 100 pounds each.

A set of used control arms were purchased to overhaul and to get painted all nice and such, so I can swap 'em out soon (at 250k miles, it’s all wore out).

I don’t like vehicles down for an extended time – or have neighbors complain about a vehicle up on wheel stands for any length of time.
BudW

I'm doing the same with my Volare control arms, I pulled a set from a Roadrunner parts car and I'm going to media blast, paint them, and install my new offset upper control arm shafts. I haven't decided on whether to use Poly or Rubber bushings yet though, I own a set of both...

 

[BudW]

I like polyurethane bushings, and even installed them (all 4 control arms) on my ’69 Road Runner.
They beat me to death on the streets. Every pebble I drove over hurt my kidneys. I sold the car not much longer than that (divorce sale) so didn’t get any further than that (note I was in late 20’s at the time. Now in early 50’s).

Personally, I think you need a little rubber between you and the road - which is why I recommend rubber for UCA and LCA's.
Sway bars are different and I have experimented with rubber vs. polyurethane with them (a lot) and there is absolutely no reason at all to not go all polyurethane bushings with them (sway bars). No road feel (jarring) is felt. The slightest move on steering wheel (assuming you have a reasonably tight steering gear) will be transmitted to an immediate direction change.

Different note: I can feel the rubber K-frame mounts “give” before the steering starts to move/turn, during a hard turn on my 5th Ave. During hard turns it feels like a slot car, BUT the slot is a foot wide (instead of 1/16" wide). Once the pin touches the slot (ie: from bushing “give”) then it turns fine (considering the tire protest).
Solid mounts (pucks) would fix that concern.
BudW

 

[mchartier105]

I like polyurethane bushings, and even installed them (all 4 control arms) on my ’69 Road Runner.
They beat me to death on the streets. Every pebble I drove over hurt my kidneys. I sold the car not much longer than that (divorce sale) so didn’t get any further than that (note I was in late 20’s at the time. Now in early 50’s).

Personally, I think you need a little rubber between you and the road - which is why I recommend rubber for UCA and LCA's.
Sway bars are different and I have experimented with rubber vs. polyurethane with them (a lot) and there is absolutely no reason at all to not go all polyurethane bushings with them (sway bars). No road feel (jarring) is felt. The slightest move on steering wheel (assuming you have a reasonably tight steering gear) will be transmitted to an immediate direction change.

Different note: I can feel the rubber K-frame mounts “give” before the steering starts to move/turn, during a hard turn on my 5th Ave. During hard turns it feels like a slot car, BUT the slot is a foot wide (instead of 1/16" wide). Once the pin touches the slot (ie: from bushing “give”) then it turns fine (considering the tire protest).
Solid mounts (pucks) would fix that concern.
BudW

Yea, I have poly on the sway bar, shocks, K-frame mounts, bump stops, and transmission mount and love it. That's why I was thinking about the poly control arm bushings.

The poly K-frame mounts handle significantly better than the rubber doughnuts and I didn't notice any harshness increase going to them.

 

[BudW]

I’m not going to deter you on your control arm bushing quest - but I do have a recommendation.

I would like to see if you can obtain a spare set of UCA and LCA’s and replace bushings in them. Maybe even clean them up and give a fresh coat of paint and ball joints.
Keep your original arms alone for now, give it a try and report back.

That way the “down time” on car will be minimal and if you like it, great.
If not, then you can rebuild your original arms, paint them (or not) and swap them out. Again, less down time.

Also, I recommend welding these onto your LCA’s. If you are going all out poly, you might as well make LCA’s stronger, as well.

BudW

 

[mchartier105]

I’m not going to deter you on your control arm bushing quest - but I do have a recommendation.

I would like to see if you can obtain a spare set of UCA and LCA’s and replace bushings in them. Maybe even clean them up and give a fresh coat of paint and ball joints.
Keep your original arms alone for now, give it a try and report back.

That way the “down time” on car will be minimal and if you like it, great.
If not, then you can rebuild your original arms, paint them (or not) and swap them out. Again, less down time.

Also, I recommend welding these onto your LCA’s. If you are going all out poly, you might as well make LCA’s stronger, as well.
View attachment 19672
BudW

I do have a spare set I'm doing exactly that with, I'm thinking I may just stick with rubber as I've only heard bad things about poly and control arms.

And are those Firm Feel reinforcement plates?

 

[BudW]

And are those Firm Feel reinforcement plates?

No,
I couldn’t find a picture on FFI’s website – but suspect it is same as below.

The part number is AR053 and is made by AR Engineering Products – but not sold through them. Mancini sells it and I have seen them from other venders.
http://www.manciniracing.com/fbolocoarmbo.html

A person might be able to make one your self – but for $30 (US), it might not be worth it.
BudW

Edit: I am a great supporter of poly – but you gotta allow a little give somewhere – and my kidneys are not it.