mopops
Well-Known Member
what need s to be changed ,an what not? what front seats will fit that car
imperial fuel injection to carb
- Thread starter mopops
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ChryslerCruiser
Well-Known Member
Off the top of my head:
The distributor,
Install a mechanical fuel pump,
Intake manifold and carb,
Not sure if the OE electronic fuel pump is in the back outside the tank, or where it is.. but that would need to be addressed.
The distributor,
Install a mechanical fuel pump,
Intake manifold and carb,
Not sure if the OE electronic fuel pump is in the back outside the tank, or where it is.. but that would need to be addressed.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Like CC said, you will need to install a complete electronic ignition, either Mopar or aftermarket, manifold and carb, and remove the block off plate to install a mech pump. Also, the instrument cluster won't work then and I don't remember how that is dealt with. You could keep the in tank fuel pump and put a regulator on. The pump is regulated to 36 psi for the EFI. It would require a different circuit and relay though. IIRC, the Mopar conversion kit was something like $2,500 dealer cost and 8 hours to install so, it is a big job. I imagine part of the cost and labor is for the instrument cluster modifications. I only remember because my buddy was a tech at a Chrysler dealer back then, and he told me the conversions were a PITA, not meaning to discourage you! 
ChryslerCruiser
Well-Known Member
It would require a different circuit and relay though. IIRC, the Mopar conversion kit was something like $2,500 dealer cost and 8 hours to install so, it is a big job. I imagine part of the cost and labor is for the instrument cluster modifications.
My imperial was converted by the previous owner. I doubt he used the conversion kit, or the dealer, although I do not have any evidence to back up that statement.. The car has a weiand dual plane, and a 600cfm Holley. The speedo works, as do the gauges, except the odometer. There are a handful or two of butt connectors under the steering column... (would a dealer do that?) Also guessing the conversion was done in the late 1990's but then he stopped driving the car, probably because something was not right.
Also I would just get a used Mopar electronic distributor, and put an HEI module on it. I've got the Mopar performance distributor, and I am guessing the ignition curve is not really optimized for the 2.2 rear gears... But I have not driven the car on the road, so that is just a guess.
Oh yeah then there is the issue of dealing with the transmission lockdown lever when going from the EFI to a 4bbl.
mopops
Well-Known Member
tks the kick down needs linkage to work all the rest but the gauges are basic mechanical changes tks gjglover
mopops
Well-Known Member
fuel reg will work tks
pita yup a lot of those guys weren't the smartest ,not every dealer did the change over,looks like most of the gauges will work tks gjgloverLike CC said, you will need to install a complete electronic ignition, either Mopar or aftermarket, manifold and carb, and remove the block off plate to install a mech pump. Also, the instrument cluster won't work then and I don't remember how that is dealt with. You could keep the in tank fuel pump and put a regulator on. The pump is regulated to 36 psi for the EFI. It would require a different circuit and relay though. IIRC, the Mopar conversion kit was something like $2,500 dealer cost and 8 hours to install so, it is a big job. I imagine part of the cost and labor is for the instrument cluster modifications. I only remember because my buddy was a tech at a Chrysler dealer back then, and he told me the conversions were a PITA, not meaning to discourage you!
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
I don't remember exactly what the issue was with the cluster, that was over 30 years ago............ I'm thinking it was only ones with the, thankfully short lived early '80's fad, digital cluster that had to be modified.
it wasn't a pita because it was a hard job, just a lot of job and dealerships pay flat-rape. Then as now, the labor time the manufacture's pay is usually about half what the job actually takes, even for an experienced tech and so, they lose money on most any warranty repair. Takes 4 hours to do, labor time is 2 hours means, they work 2 hours for free (example).
Back on topic, analog gauges wouldn't be a problem. I suppose easiest ignition would be a "one wire" hei type distributor with an internal module. Unsure of the quality of the Mopar conversion kits anymore. Sounds like the distributors are sketchy (a.k.a made in China) from what I've read and heard.
it wasn't a pita because it was a hard job, just a lot of job and dealerships pay flat-rape. Then as now, the labor time the manufacture's pay is usually about half what the job actually takes, even for an experienced tech and so, they lose money on most any warranty repair. Takes 4 hours to do, labor time is 2 hours means, they work 2 hours for free (example).
Back on topic, analog gauges wouldn't be a problem. I suppose easiest ignition would be a "one wire" hei type distributor with an internal module. Unsure of the quality of the Mopar conversion kits anymore. Sounds like the distributors are sketchy (a.k.a made in China) from what I've read and heard.
ChryslerCruiser
Well-Known Member
I just assembled an HEI from a junkyard mopar distributor, a $25 HEI module, and an hours time. In the ideal world I will get an HEI specific coil, but that can wait for now.
ChryslerCruiser
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I bet it was a pain in the neck to do.. My gauges work, but all that high tech stuff like fuel economy, and other computer functions that the digital cluster is suppose to report on do not play along. I dislike digital gauges!
mopops
Well-Known Member
how do you do the HEI?
mopops
Well-Known Member
how do you do the HEI?
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
You van do it by attaching an HEI module to the distributor, although a mounting plate/het sink needs to be fabbed. The wiring is fairly simple, needing a keyed power (hot in crank and run) circuit and wiring to the coil. The stock pick up coil plugs into 2 of the module terminals. Kind of tough to describe using text. The module doesn't have to be on the distributor but it does need a good aluminum heat sink to mount it on or it'll overheat and fail fairly quickly.
I have a Davis Unified Ignition HEI (they call it tri-power for BB Mopar) and it works excellent. The small block version is like a GM style with the large cap which wouldn't clear the valve cover on a BB. Added bonus is, when you order one it is curved for your combo (such as 2.2 rear gears). Just an idea anyways. It does cost a bit though.
DODGE 5.2L/318 Mopar small block LA Davis Unified Ignition Distributors Ignition Components Ignitions & Electrical Parts & Accessories | Summit Racing
Stock looking Pertronix "HEI" DODGE PerTronix D144600 PerTronix Flame-Thrower Stock Look Cast Distributors | Summit Racing
There are many ways of doing it, those are only a couple suggestions/ideas.
Must have been the computer display part of the cluster I remembered that won't work. As I said, it was 30+ years ago. You know, the older you get, the more you know, the more you forget.
This the ignition on my Aspen for reference.
I have a Davis Unified Ignition HEI (they call it tri-power for BB Mopar) and it works excellent. The small block version is like a GM style with the large cap which wouldn't clear the valve cover on a BB. Added bonus is, when you order one it is curved for your combo (such as 2.2 rear gears). Just an idea anyways. It does cost a bit though.
DODGE 5.2L/318 Mopar small block LA Davis Unified Ignition Distributors Ignition Components Ignitions & Electrical Parts & Accessories | Summit Racing
Stock looking Pertronix "HEI" DODGE PerTronix D144600 PerTronix Flame-Thrower Stock Look Cast Distributors | Summit Racing
There are many ways of doing it, those are only a couple suggestions/ideas.
Must have been the computer display part of the cluster I remembered that won't work. As I said, it was 30+ years ago. You know, the older you get, the more you know, the more you forget.
This the ignition on my Aspen for reference.
I always liked this setup. Uses a standard GM HEI module. This is what I would be using if I didn't want a rev limiter and computer timing control.
Mopar HEI Conversion
Mopar HEI Conversion
mopops
Well-Known Member
tks looks like the way to go gjg
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
That's a cool plate to hold the HEI. I've always stuck with the mopar setup.
For the dash I forget too what the issue was why it was different between fuel injection and carb. A friend of mine had an imperial years ago. I forget if it was still fuel injected or already converted but he ended up changing the dash out with a J body one because the digital one would randomly go out as you were driving or went over bumps and stuff.
For the dash I forget too what the issue was why it was different between fuel injection and carb. A friend of mine had an imperial years ago. I forget if it was still fuel injected or already converted but he ended up changing the dash out with a J body one because the digital one would randomly go out as you were driving or went over bumps and stuff.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
That looks like a good way to go. Never saw one of those before.
Most cars of the era with digital dashes had all sorts of problems. Missing segments, randomly going dark, half working, half not, implausible readings, etc. I was a Ford dealer tech back then and they were nothing but trouble and. if out of warranty, very expensive to replace. Glad it was just a fad, along with talking cars. "a door is ajar" "the lights are on".
mopops
Well-Known Member
coil needs to be changed? what needs to be there? its going on my 82 mirada
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
As long as it's a coil rated for 12 volts and doesn't require an external resistor, it will be fine, whether it's a stock coil or something like an MSD Blaster or similar. The "hi-perf" coil would be ideal however. A coil made for a resistor won't last long at a constant 12 volts. They're usually made to run on 7 volts or so, except during crank.
mopops
Well-Known Member
other sites list part #s for coil n control, looks like my stock coil will work tks
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
It MIGHT be printed on the coil "external resistor required" or "Resistor not required" or something similar to one of those.
