Knock when releasing the clutch in neutral

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Voeltagear

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Any ideas what would cause a knock when releasing the clutch at a stop in neutral? More noticeable when I quickly take my foot off. Also happens when letting off the gas abruptly. The clutch does jutter when engaging 1st from a stop which greatly improved with a new transmission mount. (Motor mounts to be replaced next) The knock sounds and feels rotational. I'm hoping it's not loose transmission to bell housing bolts. I'll check them asap.
 
It does sound like it's time to get under there and start grabbing on the trans and everything else and trying to pull and push on things. Won't take long to find the loose item
 
I’ve had a throwout bearing make noise before also check the fluid level in the transmission.
 
I rocked the car front to back last evening. The knocking seems to be coming from the differential. Makes sense, it whines quite a bit and makes some rotational noise when turning right. I will have to dig into it. Anyone have an 8 1/4 suregrip for sale?
 
You shouldn't condemn a loud third member. Do the preload and adjust it up. If it's time for bearings do them too. They get sloppy over time. It's not hard to do, and it will save you putting in a rear end that could potentially be worse than what you have in there now.
My '97 Durango that I gave to my grand daughter sounded like it had dying wolves in the back and she drove it for years like that. I finally got around to doing the bearings and adjustments about two years ago.
 
Ele115 said:
You shouldn't condemn a loud third member. Do the preload and adjust it up. If it's time for bearings do them too. They get sloppy over time. It's not hard to do, and it will save you putting in a rear end that could potentially be worse than what you have in there now.
My '97 Durango that I gave to my grand daughter sounded like it had dying wolves in the back and she drove it for years like that. I finally got around to doing the bearings and adjustments about two years ago.
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Looking for a suregrip. Not a differential. I just discovered the jeep 8.25 carriers may be compatible. That opens up a whole lot more availability.
 
Voeltagear said:
I just discovered the jeep 8.25 carriers may be compatible. That opens up a whole lot more availability.
Click to expand...
Yes ... and no.
All Chrysler/Jeep 8-1/4" carriers will fit, from '68 to present - BUT the '68-95 axle shafts have 27-splines and '97 and newer axle shafts have 29-splines.
To use a '97 and newer carrier, you will need to get custom axle shafts made (doable - but potentially expensive).
It would a easy bolt-in if you can find a '68-95 limited slip carrier (Jeep/Dodge/Mopar).
BudW
 
I have a rebuilt AHB rear end in the garage.
Dana spicer sure grip, 3.21 gears, new brakes and bearings. All new; Have the drive shaft from the AHB car too.
Could be yours for $1,300 and a trip to the Northside of Chicago.
If I don’t die first, I’m going to be doing a BB swap so, I’d rather start getting a Dana 60 or 8.75 together. Keep me from doing two rear end swaps on the car.
 
Camtron said:
I have a rebuilt AHB rear end in the garage.
Dana spicer sure grip, 3.21 gears, new brakes and bearings. All new; Have the drive shaft from the AHB car too.
Could be yours for $1,300 and a trip to the Northside of Chicago.
If I don’t die first, I’m going to be doing a BB swap so, I’d rather start getting a Dana 60 or 8.75 together. Keep me from doing two rear end swaps on the car.
Click to expand...
What does ahb stand for?
 
BudW said:
Yes ... and no.
All Chrysler/Jeep 8-1/4" carriers will fit, from '68 to present - BUT the '68-95 axle shafts have 27-splines and '97 and newer axle shafts have 29-splines.
To use a '97 and newer carrier, you will need to get custom axle shafts made (doable - but potentially expensive).
It would a easy bolt-in if you can find a '68-95 limited slip carrier (Jeep/Dodge/Mopar).
BudW
Click to expand...
I saw it was 27 spline. Thanks for the info.
 
Voeltagear said:
What does ahb stand for?
Click to expand...
It’s the factory code used to identify M-body police vehicles. So it also has 11” drums instead of the civilian 10” drum package.
All drop in factory police and fleet options for these cars.
 
Oldiron440 said:
For less money you can build a 8.8 Ford witch is sooo much stronger…
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What's the process to do this? Isn't the ford hub smaller? Would you use bushings in the wheel then? I assume one or both axles need to be shortened? Is there a thread here I can use for reference?
 
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