laquer paint

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kwobbler

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so im just wondering one of the items on my list is repaint. the old paint is laq. anyone know do i need to strip it or can u just scuff it to repaint with modern paints & clear
 
Are you doing a complete or a spot repair?
 
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For spot repair you can probably get by with going over the lacquer paint. But for a complete I would highly recommend stripping the lacquer off including all underlying paint. The lacquer paint over a factory baked enamel paint was common thirty years ago. Sometimes these paint jobs wood last the life of the car, usually fifteen to twenty years or so. Today's paints are urethane based, some of the base colors can and will react to the lacquer when sprayed over top. And when done you will have baked enamel, lacquer and then urethane enamel top cotes, not a durable paint job.
I think at this point a complete strip to bare metal is needed then build up with appropriate primers and paint. This will give the most durability and the only way paint manufacturers guaranty there paints.
The user has to be certified in there products as well.
 
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Oldiron440 said:
For spot repair you can probably get by with going over the lacquer paint. But for a complete I would highly recommend stripping the lacquer off including all underlying paint. The lacquer paint over a factory baked enamel paint was common thirty years ago. Sometimes these paint jobs wood last the life of the car, usually fifteen to twenty years or so. Today's paints are urethane based, some of the base colors can and will react to the lacquer when sprayed over top. And when done you will have baked enamel, lacquer and then urethane enamel top cotes, not a durable paint job.
I think at this point a complete strip to bare metal is needed then build up with appropriate primers and paint. This will give the most durability and the only way paint manufacturers guaranty there paint thats what i was wondering that makes sense to me with my limited paint knowledge the laq still is in good cond. been in garage the 25yrs so no sun damage. just you know how durable laq. is so theres a few scratches from bikes & such.lol.
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For strip to bare metal job, if you have a shop do the job, be sure they use self etching primer on any and all bare metal and then the regular primer/surfacers, sealers, etc. Any GOOD body shop will use self etching but some not so good ones tend to skip that step. In other words, research the body shop first. The paint might look excellent for a while but then surface rust will start all over the place if steps are skipped. Usually that's on cars that are driven in winter where road salt is used, but can happen anywhere if it's wet and humid. One little chip and the rust starts spreading under the paint and keeps on going.
 
If an epoxy primer is used a self etching primer should not be used first. I actually prefer epoxy over self etching. I have found a industrial ppg epoxy that is scannable and works very well under body work and is $150 for two spayabel gallons.
 
Oldiron440 said:
If an epoxy primer is used a self etching primer should not be used first. I actually prefer epoxy over self etching. I have found a industrial ppg epoxy that is scannable and works very well under body work and is $150 for two spayabel gallons.
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What PPG Epoxy is that?
 
PPG Shopline epoxy primer. I think PPG may be naming their product line. If you say shopline then your supplier knows what you need. Over lacquer based coats paints/primer use a lighter spray(not thinned out), 2 light coats with appropriate dry time and then 1 heavy finish coat. Old paints may seem good and intact soften quickly when a solvent base product is applied. Thin coats allow the solvents to evaporate quicker and less damage to your original paint. New paint systems require that you read all the directions. Recoat windows are the biggest problem for these systems.
 
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