Definitely the way to go.
Lean-Burn Conversion
- Thread starter redhorse819
- Start date
Definitely the way to go.
LSM360
Well-Known Member
The "fun" part will be finding the linkage you need to go from 2 to 4bbl
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Can always use an aftermarket throttle cable bracket and cable kick down, if it comes to that.
Edelbrock sells and adapter for the throttle cable and the kickdown can be done by modifying the factory lever. When I did it myself I cut it in half, threaded both ends and used a turn-buckle with jam nuts. Made it longer with the bonus of being able to adjust the kickdown from under the hood.
If it doesn't reach, you can make a tiny extension from steel and drill two holes into it. Pretty easy. The kickdown will need to be done right. Do what Duke said, make it adjustable or if there is a gap in the slot put a small bolt and nut in there.
No reason to delete the Lean Burn on a 2bbl car. The computer has a much better timing curve than any aftermarket distributor. Find out the problem - is it the carb, a sensor, a vacuum leak, incorrect carb or timing adjustment, bad timing chain or dampner? Figure it out. You can easily spend $1000 on a delete set-up and never fix the problem.
Test the computer - does timing advance properly when warm? Does the idle solenoid bump up the idle properly? If not, replace the computer. Reman computers are actually cheaper than a delete kit.
On factory 4bbl cars, if it can be proven that the computer is no good, which is rare (they're located up under the dash on squads), they could use a little help in the timing curve. I would order a new/reman distributor for a '88 Dodge 360 pickup, plus the harness and ICU from Napa or Standard. For a carb, find a good late (1980-84) thermoquad for a 318 pickup. You could also use a 17085408 or 17085411 Quadrajet. Stay away from edelbrock and holley junk.
Test the computer - does timing advance properly when warm? Does the idle solenoid bump up the idle properly? If not, replace the computer. Reman computers are actually cheaper than a delete kit.
On factory 4bbl cars, if it can be proven that the computer is no good, which is rare (they're located up under the dash on squads), they could use a little help in the timing curve. I would order a new/reman distributor for a '88 Dodge 360 pickup, plus the harness and ICU from Napa or Standard. For a carb, find a good late (1980-84) thermoquad for a 318 pickup. You could also use a 17085408 or 17085411 Quadrajet. Stay away from edelbrock and holley junk.
My main issue with the 80 Aspen FHP car was it would run too lean. There is a TINY bit of adjustment on the TQ, but not enough. The spark plugs would turn really white. The other issue was the timing advance during first run didn't work, and that's the computer. I have tons of parts and just went with an aluminum intake, 1976 distributor, Holley 600 and a box which I hid. It still looks like it has lean burn but I can tune to my liking in minutes with the holley. I have a couple really good Non Lean burn TQ's I could use, they sound so good but I like how fast you can make changes to the holleys. I would ideally use a spread bore Holley, but they are mechanical secondary 750's so I wouldn't like them
Lean is always better. That's the whole idea behind the lean burn system. I would always tune mine just to the very edge of a lean miss. That keeps fuel and oil consumption to a minimum, and prolongs the life of the engine. Winter time, I'd have to fatten it up a little bit, but if everything else was in good shape, maybe an eighth or quarter turn out on the mixture screws, at the most. Lean mixtures generally won't leave any deposits on a plug. Sometimes you might see a little discoloration.
If you couldn't adjust it to a happy medium, no matter what engine or carb, that's a good indication of a vacuum leak. I have also had stripped-out mixture screws in a few carbs, too. Then you pretty much have to replace the throttle plate.
