Lifting the 318 in an M-body

Bluejeansthe5th

Active Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2021
Messages
36
Reaction score
15
Location
Newport News, Va.
I guess the oil pan is going to have to come back off my 87. The front gasket looks like it is not in place and there is a oil leak there. Hard to see with the cooler lines in place. I read an earlier discussion on oil pan removal. Since the Y-pipe and all was just removed and put back up that should not be too much hassle. I guess the left side engine mount, (on the K-member) just loosen and remove the nut, as the mount is open at the top. Is the right mount the same? It is much harder to see if the mount is open. Waiting for an engine lift/cradle to come in to Harbor Freight, so I can get started. What do folks know about getting the engine up 2 inches.
 

kmccabe56

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
122
Reaction score
27
You're on the right track. Lifting it up 2" is about all you need. I recall the FSM indicating that a small piece of 2x4 under the mount is sufficient to provide clearance.
 

Aspen500

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2015
Messages
7,030
Reaction score
2,759
Location
Rib Mountain, WI
Both mounts are the same. Loosen the nuts most of the way (or take them right off) and slide the bolts forward a little bit and they'll lift out of the slots. Nice the bolts also have ribs on them to keep them from spinning when removing the huts (unlike some other makes................)

You should also unbolt the fan should. No need to take it out, just unbolt it from the radiator and let it hang on the fan.

LOL, story from the mid '80's. I was a fresh tech working at a Ford dealer and had to remove the oil pan from a Crown Vic 302. I asked the seasoned veteran tech next to me if there were any tricks. He said to raise the engine until the valve covers hit the firewall and then,,,,,,,,,,,,go a couple inches farther. Darned if he wasn't right! Turns out the firewall would bend but come right back to shape (think oil can effect) once the engine was set back down.
 

Bluejeansthe5th

Active Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2021
Messages
36
Reaction score
15
Location
Newport News, Va.
Both mounts are the same. Loosen the nuts most of the way (or take them right off) and slide the bolts forward a little bit and they'll lift out of the slots. Nice the bolts also have ribs on them to keep them from spinning when removing the huts (unlike some other makes................)

You should also unbolt the fan should. No need to take it out, just unbolt it from the radiator and let it hang on the fan.

LOL, story from the mid '80's. I was a fresh tech working at a Ford dealer and had to remove the oil pan from a Crown Vic 302. I asked the seasoned veteran tech next to me if there were any tricks. He said to raise the engine until the valve covers hit the firewall and then,,,,,,,,,,,,go a couple inches farther. Darned if he wasn't right! Turns out the firewall would bend but come right back to shape (think oil can effect) once the engine was set back down.
Don't get me started on Fords and oil can metal... I have never been a professional auto tech (which means to me I get paid to do the work...) I have a Brother that was one, and my BF of 53 years was also one. I have heard stories... At least neither was ever around when a car fell off the lift, which I would think is about the worst thing to happen other than a fire.
 

Aspen500

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2015
Messages
7,030
Reaction score
2,759
Location
Rib Mountain, WI
Nine times out of ten, we were taking the oil pan off a Ford to replace the pan itself, not the gasket. Reason, the original rusted through and leaked oil. Didn't seem to matter if it was 4, 6 or 8 cylinder. If it had a stamped steel pan, it could rust out. The (now defunct) Ford dealer I worked at for 18 years kept pans in stock for the 300/4.9L and 5.0L F-150's. I remember doing 4 of them in one week in the mid '90's. Worst one ever was an F-250 7.3 L diesel. Step one to replace those pans is, remove engine from vehicle, sigh...................They also had a problem with valve covers rotting out, especially the 2.8, 2.9 and 4.0 (pushrod) V-6's. Best part about those, only 3 or 4 years after they quite making those engines, the valve covers were discontinued and made from unobtainium.

Anyways, MUCH easier to get the pan out of a Mopar, even to this day.
 

Duke5A

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2018
Messages
1,640
Reaction score
857
Location
Michigan
Nine times out of ten, we were taking the oil pan off a Ford to replace the pan itself, not the gasket. Reason, the original rusted through and leaked oil. Didn't seem to matter if it was 4, 6 or 8 cylinder. If it had a stamped steel pan, it could rust out. The (now defunct) Ford dealer I worked at for 18 years kept pans in stock for the 300/4.9L and 5.0L F-150's. I remember doing 4 of them in one week in the mid '90's. Worst one ever was an F-250 7.3 L diesel. Step one to replace those pans is, remove engine from vehicle, sigh...................They also had a problem with valve covers rotting out, especially the 2.8, 2.9 and 4.0 (pushrod) V-6's. Best part about those, only 3 or 4 years after they quite making those engines, the valve covers were discontinued and made from unobtainium.

Anyways, MUCH easier to get the pan out of a Mopar, even to this day.
LoL, my 92 F150 did the same thing. Had to replace a starter too and snapped one of the bolts. You know how many rusty ass Mopars I've worked on and never had that happen?? Don't get me started on the pig metal linkages in the steering column for the starter switch.
 

AJ/FormS

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
1,291
Reaction score
305
Location
On the Circle of the earth, Southern Man,Canada
To change the front gasket; IMO, is easier to just take off the timing cover.

But before you do anything;
are you aware know that even a properly installed front rail seal looks like it is installed wrong? I mean the seal is built to straddle the oilpan rail, and the straddles are rather large. I've never had one leak.
But the corners can and do leak where the straddle transitions to the rail.

Having said that, before I would go to all the trouble of changing that seal, I would pressurize the engine with NOT more than 4psi, and hit it with the soapy water spritzer, to find out exactly where the oil-trail is coming from; you may be surprised.
 

ChryslerCruiser

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2019
Messages
154
Reaction score
18
Location
Morrisville VT
He said to raise the engine until the valve covers hit the firewall and then,,,,,,,,,,,,go a couple inches farther. Darned if he wasn't right! Turns out the firewall would bend but come right back to shape (think oil can effect) once the engine was set back down.

It has been 15 or 20 years since I have had a metal oil can in my hands... had to think a moment or two and then remembered the unique sound of the metal popping back into place when the oil rushing out would pull the can bottom in. I don't even have the metal spout anymore...
 
Back
Top