M bodys etc are so hard to change oil filter

Aspen500

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Ford used that pan style in Mustang's, Crown Vic's, etc with a 302 or 351 (5.0/5.8). The pan has the small front sump to clear the oil pump, but then they needed the "hump" in the center to clear the crossmember. I always thought they could have eliminated that dual drain plug thing with a little better engineering in the chassis department.

When at the Audi dealer, I changed oil on the R8's (only one certified to work on them,,,,,lucky me.) Three drain plugs in the pan and another plug in the oil tank for the dry sump system. Filter was easy, it's a canister style right on top of the engine. They paid 2.4 hrs for an oil change. First you remove about a milllion triple square bolts that hold the underbody panels, air scoops, air channels, etc off the bottom of the car. Once all that's out of the way, remove the 3 triple square drain plugs, one which requires a goofy looking special triple square socket to access it. Then,,,,,,,,unbolt the brackets that hold the p.s. reservoir hoses so you can move them aside to access the oil tank drain. Then reverse procedure with all the panels, scoops, blah, blah, blah. Nest, fill oil tank with 10 liters of oil, start engine and run for 2 minutes, shut it off and wait 2 minutes. Check level before adding 1 more liter of oil. Run engine, shut off, wait 10 minutes and recheck level, add oil if needed.
Gotta love that "fine German engineering". lol. Oh yeah, almost forgot. Hook up scanner and reset oil change interval and also "tell" the car it has new oil.
I suppose one up side to being the only one allowed to work on R8's, I also got to road test them as well so, it wasn't ALL bad. :cool:

I won't go into what it takes to do the simple job of replacing the battery (pays 1.8 hrs) in one of those things, or replacing the cabin air filters (pays 2.0 hrs) I love NOT being on flat rape where I'm at now and,,,,,,,,,,,,,,rarely having to work on an Audi. Paid hourly you get twice the work done and get it done with no stress or feeling rushed, vs flat rape. Weird how that works, he says while straying way off topic. :oops:
 
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M_Body_Coupe

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Hmm, I always thought the M-body oil filter location was pretty straight forward. If there is a complaint (sort of) that I have is that switching to the 90-deg oil filter adapter (due to header use) didn't really improve the situation. In fact it felt like things actually got worse as opposed to better. I suspect that was most likely due to me incorrectly "clocking" the adapter as I attempted to best match the access to what the chassis allowed me to do.

I am re-thinking using it on my W2 stroker motor, but with TTI 1-7/8" primary pipes I may not have a choice...haven't gotten that far yet.

Anyways, so what challenge are you running into?

oil_filter_adapter.jpg
 

LSM360

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I've relocated the filter on my AHB to just under the radiator support and I swapped to steel braided lines so from filter it then runs to the engine oil cooler. Everything is completely leak/seep free and filter is completely vertical and is tucked right behind front bumper. Stays cooler and easily accessed. And really I never had a problem with them either until headers installed because then it wants to dump on headers.
 
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