My repop BBD Carburetor

Engines, Exhaust and Fuel Systems

  1. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    The carburetor on my '86 Fifth Ave is currently giving me fits.

    Now I should back up a bit, about 10 years ago (or so), the original Holley 6280 feedback carburetor was giving a lot of fits, mainly because of the cheap gasoline used (previous owner) and sitting for long periods of time. I'm sure if I opened up, it would look quite nasty inside. Personally, I really dislike working on Holley's (any Holly) so started to look for a replacement.

    Looking on eBay for a possible replacement, I found a new Carter BBD for sale. Personally, I feel the '77 non-lean burn Carter BBD's is one of the better versions – but there is a lot close runner ups.
    This was years before I purchased my '77 wagon - which ironically also has a Carter BBD-8094s on it.

    I bought it and when it arrived, I noticed it came from China. Yes, a Chinese Carter repop. I guess sense Carter has been out of business sense '84, that they can do that (me shrugs). If I recall correctly, it cost me about $160 (US) for the carb and another $15 for a new choke. The Carter BBD uses a different length choke rod than the Holley 6280/2280 does.
    The carburetor worked better than the Holley did – but not at 100%. There is absolutely no markings on it indicating who made it (part or in whole) but it looks very close to the original.

    The last few weeks, this carburetor is starting to act up. It starts and idles fine, but won't run worth a flip over 1500 RPM's (a problem with the main circuit – most likely with the air bleeds). Being 10ish years old, its time for an good cleaning and adjustment.
    I also realized I had failed to check all of the carburetor adjustments before I had installed it – which is most likely why it has never ran at 100%.

    Was looking online for a cheap carb kit (I'm cheap, what can I say), and found they are still selling the Chinese new Carter repops – but now the current price is about $80 (US) plus tax and freight. A new carb kit will cost about $30ish and I have another issue to contend with. My wife REALLY REALLY dislikes the smell of carb cleaner – so I've always tried to avoid the stuff unless I know she is on a business trip for a few days. I went ahead and bought another carb.

    The new carb came in this week and I decided to get it adjusted to '77 318 automatic 49-state specifications (BBD-8094s).

    The first thing I did was remove the carburetor top to adjust the float level. I should have taken pictures- but didn't. The float was set WAY low. Maybe the fuel bowl would hold about 1/3rd the fuel of what it should hold. I also noticed the brass float was covered with green corrosion - more than I would have expected.

    Virtually every adjustment was no where close to where it should have been. It took me a good 2 hours to get it to specs – but part of that was getting correct size measuring tools. It takes time to do a good job. A rushed carburetor adjustment job will always give a person grief.

    Another thing I noticed was linkage to baseplate interference when at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). As it was, the carburetor could stick in a WOT position - which is not cool!
    20200201_221952c.jpg
    I had to get a file out and file the baseplate down a smidge – but all works fine now.

    I also had to file down a casting ridge on the top, because of minor choke plate interference. Anything that keeps any moving parts from working smoothly needs to be addressed.
    20200201_222613c.jpg

    I ran out of daylight to get her installed – but I feel confident it will work fine. I bet a good cleaning and adjustment will make the old one work much better – but I'll pin that project for another day.

    The new (Left) and old (Right) Chinese copies:
    20200201_221641c.jpg
    The older one has about 40k miles on it (maybe).

    I'll give an update after install and driven it for a while.
    BudW
     
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  2. droptop

    droptop Well-Known Member

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    Bud, I was actually looking at this very carb last evening as a replacement for the 4608 Carter on my wife’s 69 Barracuda. My concern was about the choke linkage and hookup. It looks like everything else will fall into place. Can you post a good picture of the choke side of the carb after you get it hooked up?
     
  3. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    I guess for $80, you can't expect it to be perfect out of the box. Only thing that would worry me is if the internal passages and orifices the correct size.
     
  4. volare 77

    volare 77 Well-Known Member

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    Maybe the price was dropped because of issues?? It does makes me wonder what else could be wrong with it. Also I wonder if the seller put in the time for them to sell a good quality product I wonder how much it would change the price.Hopefully it will work fine now. Good luck.
     
  5. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    An update.
    The carb installed – other than repairing some hoses and other odds n ends, without issues - all went well except for it wouldn't start.
    I took the top plate and poured a bit of gas in it and it would start/run for a but then stop again. After doing this twice and still out of gas (no accelerator pump action), I decided to crack the fuel line at carb.

    Plenty of fuel pressure – so no issue there. I then finished removing the fuel line to access the needle and seat – to check it, next.
    I then discovered a problem. The seat would turn about 1/8th a turn then stop. It would go back to tight – but not forward. This was to the point something was about to give (ie: striped threads or brass seat to snap in two). I've broken my share of brass fittings so I know when to stop.

    Went to garage and got a short piece of solid copper wire and stripped some insulation off. I inserted wire into the seat hole and the needle popped free without too much effort. All is good again – but if I ever need to remove the seat . . . I'm screwed.

    It started and ran great. It also took very little adjustment to get it to idle fine.

    I took it back out for a test drive and was disappointed (again) – this time not on the carburetor.

    The car still has a lack of mid-range or full throttle power, and car wants to die after driving a spell. It appears I misdiagnosed the problem. The finger is now pointed to (from?) my partially stopped up catalytic converters to now being mostly (or fully) stopped up converter(s)– for car is driving just as if there was a potato stuck in the tailpipe.

    The good news is I purchased a used Y-pipe (cat-less) from an '80 F wagon to replace the three cats with – so it appears I will need to tackle that job sooner than I had expected. I can now (also) replace that “leaking like a sieve” power steering gear at the same time – which I couldn't access with the left side upper cat in the way
    BudW
     
  6. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    One thing I did notice is this carburetor has more vacuum ports on it than my '77 BBD has. This is not a problem – but a person will need to purchase some vacuum port caps to cap-off the unused ports. All but one port is used on the '86 – but I would need 3 caps if it was used on my '77.

    Droptop – they make a high-top and a low-top version of the BBD. Well, they also make an older version that doesn't use a PCV valve ('64ish and older). The PCV valve has more benefits than not, so I don't even consider the older ones (pre-'64ish) as a viable option. To keep car correct, you want the low-top version. The high-top has a bit better control with the power valve setup but the primary purpose of the high-top is for vapor control (so still my preference for FMJ's). If your car doesn't use a 2-way charcoal canister (to collect vapors from fuel tank and from carburetor) – then I would use the low-top version. So much easier to overhaul. The low-tops are also cheaper.

    I guess I should backup a bit. There are actually two sizes of the BBD. The more common one used for /6 and 318's and a less common but bigger version used used for the 2 bbl versions of 360/383/400's. The bigger version will not bolt onto a 318 intake without a very hard to find adapter and the bigger version is not as user friendly as the smaller one is.
    The /6 version of the BBD is different from the 318 version and the two can interchange as assembly's – but really is best to leave /6 version for /6's and 318 version for 318's.

    The low-top and high-top chokes will be the same height. That said, about the same time the high-tops came out, they also sent to electrically heated chokes which shouldn't be interchanged with one that's not electrically (or vise versa).

    I'll try to take some pictures in the morning when I have more light out.

    I don't think there is much differences with jet sizes or orifices for the 318 BBD's (if any differences) except for the older ones that has no PVC provision. From a hot restart, mine feels to run OK until the exhaust back-pressure builds up. More to report on this on a later date – but this is something I did consider.

    Aye

    There was about a 10-year span between purchases. My guess is production costs went down and competition has gone up?

    I would definitely take the time to check ALL SETTINGS and make sure all parts operate smoothly before installing – but I think they make a decent replacement for someone who is missing or has a non-usable core.
    BudW
     
  7. Woodruff Carbs

    Woodruff Carbs Vendor FFJBO Vendor

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    I quit taking them as cores even. The Chinese motor craft 2bbls are a nightmare also.