Need help removing headliner please...

F Body General Discussion

  1. halfafish

    halfafish Member

    Messages:
    8
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2019
    Location:
    SW WASHINGTON
    I'm dismantling a 78 Volare, and a member here wants the headliner. Once I get the sun visors, dome light, and seat belt shoulder mount harnesses off, how is the headliner removed? It is a solid piece of form-fit hardboard, and I don't see any screws, clips or ?? I don't want to damage it for the new owner.
     
  2. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,468
    Likes Received:
    1299
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2015
    Location:
    Rib Mountain (Wausau) WI
    Remove all the trim around the sides, like the windshield header, a-pillar trim, roof rail trim, etc. Then pop the dome light lens off and there will be 2 screws. Remove them and the headliner should drop out. It helps to have an assistant since once the screws are out, it'll fall down on your head. There are no clips, the dome light and trim hold it in.
    To get it out of the car, the front seats (at least the seat backrests) have to be removed, then carefully turn it however is needed to fit out the door opening. It's a tight fit but can be done without damage.
     
    Justwondering likes this.
  3. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    3,937
    Likes Received:
    1032
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2012
    Location:
    Oklahoma City
    What he said.
    4-door cars are a more difficult than 2-door cars are. Wagons (with 1-piece liners) are way easier – but they really need 2 helpers.
    Either case, there is an emphasis placed on getting a helper, first. Also, avoid handling it by weak spots/areas (like by the seat belt holes, rear view mirror hole, etc.).
    BudW

    Edit: Another thing to keep up with is screws.
    Most of those screws are different – so I recommend you find a method to keep those fasteners organized for when you go back together. I had like 60 screws total of about 10-12 different types total when I removed the headliner from my Fifth Ave (4-door).
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2019 at 2:40 PM
  4. halfafish

    halfafish Member

    Messages:
    8
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2019
    Location:
    SW WASHINGTON
    Many thanks guys, this came out just as described!
     
  5. Rattle Trap

    Rattle Trap Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    81
    Likes Received:
    25
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2013
    Location:
    The Outer Limits
    I have a process. It's involved, but all is necessary. First remove pass side front seat and duct tape the driver seat release lever in the loose position. You won't be twisting that thing out without one gone and the steering column is in the way of going out the driver side. Then remove dash top and pad to access the A-pillar trims. Remove both door steels and windshield top bow and finish removing A-pillar trims. Replace windshield top bow with a single screw loosely on one side hole. Not an end hole. Remove visors. Now go to the rear. Remove rear seat entirely. The rear window interior C-pillar plastic side trims are valuable so be careful. Remove top bow and unscrew bottom bow. The bottom bow is going to be gooped in window adhesive and not easily removed. It will break the bottoms off your plastic side trims if not careful. There are between one and three screws in each side trim. Remove all but one left loose each. Now get whatever form of pry bar and hooked knife (I have modified carpet knives especially to have less shank and more hook). Place a roll of 2" masking tap on the package tray with your other tools and remove the last screw from the side trim you'll be working to get first and hold it loosely in one hand while working between tools with the other. Use your bars and screwdrivers to pry from the top and bottom for better access. Once you get the steel out a bit on that side start twisting on it while moving the side trim forward and back with it and cut the goop loose from top and bottom working your way to the center. You may get the side trim loose this way. Or you may need to use the tape to hold it to the rear glass and the rest of the plastic for now while you work on the other side. Repeat on that side but being careful off your other loose side. Just enough to get some ability to pull that first side's tabs loose from the steel that's hooked around each bottom edge of the plastic. Once you finally get that steel piece loosened enough to get one free, you're home free with the other. So next order of business. Remove the steel clips that are keeping your lower seat belts from retracting beyond the plastic interior quarters. Don't loose those! Damnit I hate losing those! Unscrew the lower and center screws and pull them forward and get em outa there. So at this point you're only holding the headliner with the loose front bow, the top front seat belt covers and the dome light. Replace each upper door frame steel loosely with a screw in the 2nd to back of each and remove the front outer seat belts entirely, or at least get the tops out of there and drop the rest on the floor. if this is a very late 78, 79 or 80, it will require that you remove the open door locking button mechanisms from the door jambs and feed them up the B-pillars to come out with the retractors. Almost done. The whole rear section is just dangling behind the dome light. Make sure you've only got a couple threads in the front bow now, and the pass side where you've removed the seat. You want those loose because you're going to pull the cardboard right out of their support in a moment. Sit on the hump and finally remove the dome light. Better have the drill driver on the hump right next to you when you do that. Because now you're holding the whole thing up with one hand and reaching for it. Shoot that screw out of the pass door steel you're going out from, drop the drill, and grab the headliner with both hands. Slide it back til it clears the front bow. Move yourself toward your exit and droop it down toward that side so it pops free of the driver side steel. It's all in your hands at this point. Crouch down and let it lay on the driver seat while sliding it forward. Then move it forward until you've got the whole stupid thing jammed. Now it's a good thing you duct taped the driver seat release because it's job is done. Pop it up on the steering wheel and you've got the extra room you need to swing this deal right out the door. It's approximately 56"x56" so you'll need the front section down at dash height to fit thru the 61" door opening now. Slide yourself over that rocker feet first and take it out with you. All done! Have a Beer!