Need help selecting parts

[wvdodgemirada]

Well if you've seen my other thread, then you know my trans yoke and driveshaft are well junk. I will be needing new of both, car makes about 500 hp and 520tq. When I break things I want to upgrade them so I don't break them again. My question in all of this is what should I get my driveshaft and yoke made out of? Ill also be upgrading u joints.

 

[MiradaMegacab]

Rick at www.andatrans.com can help u with trans parts. Denny's drive shaft or supershafts is the plAce to go to for yokes, u joints, drive shafts. Did u check out of round specs on ur shaft? Lol, drive shaft run out with a dial indicator? Regardless, I'd ditch that drive shaft and start over

 

[MiradaMegacab]

Shit, www.aandatrans.com

 

[Aspen500]

I can highly recommend Denny Driveshafts. Call him up and he will go over what you've got and figure out what you need as far as yokes and shaft size, etc. Nice guy and knows his stuff!

 

[BudW]

If your driveshaft touched the ground after failure occurred, I agree, need to get it checked out, if not replaced.
If it was contained in driveshaft loop - I would still check it for straightness.

Even a small ding can get one out of balance.

 

[BudW]

You have a small block (only car /6 and small blocks came with 904’s).

The 904 is plenty strong enough to take care of most people’s performance needs – and might excel in a couple of areas (weight, lower 1st gear ratio and sense 904 tailhousing is shorter – some believe shorter is stronger than 727.

Some think the other way, sense 727 output shaft (and input shaft) are larger it ca transfer more power. I do not see many output shafts (or input shafts as far as that goes) that fail on these transmissions – so I don’t think that carries much weight. The 1st gear ratio is higher on 727 (not good for performance) and is heavier.

I feel in most cases, keeping your 904 may be best for you – but you will need to check your current output shaft for straightness, check driveshaft and see if a person can find a good performance aftermarket yoke. Also, find a torque converter matched to your needs.

BudW

 

[Justwondering]

BudW
Most of the time I have no clue what you are talking about ... but the way you explain it I feel like I can almost figure it out. Not really the details, but the end result/performance.

Thanks for being on this forum ...

 

[wvdodgemirada]

Update, trans is out of the car. will check it over a little over the weekend, but the output shaft has a fair amount of movement/play in it. and to my knowledge its not supposed to move like at all lol. It is a small block car, will more than likely stick with a 904. The driveshaft was a good shaft before, balanced etc, but was on the ground for a good bit, heavy gouge ring in it. Thank you for recommendations thus far, thinking of going with Dynotech and getting an Aluminum shaft made. Will call them next week and if all goes well will order that and u joints and yokes from them. Probably call Dennys Driveshaft also so I have some options.

 

[BudW]

I forgot to mention, I’ve been inside not quite but close to a thousand 904's and 727's, before. Can almost rebuild one with eyes closed (but not going to try).

Without the output shaft ball bearing in place, it will feel loose - and that is normal. There is only one bushing holding the shaft in place (and the big ball bearing) and the bushing wasn’t meant to be real tight.
I would say normal play should be about 1/4" up/down play on output shaft tip, with tail housing removed (approximate guess). Any more than that, and you might want to look at going deeper inside transmissions.

 

[wvdodgemirada]

would like to thank MiradaMegacab and Aspen500 for there recommendation for dennys driveshaft. I ordered the slip yoke and pinion yoke from them, both Chromoly 1350's. Will be ordering the driveshaft tomorrow morning from dynotech because they ship within 72 hrs.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Have you got steel caged planetaries, cuz the aluminum ones may be the next thing to go. I tore an aluminum one up with less power.