trevorgroves92
Member
The vacuum hose is connected to the circled port on the carb, my issue is finding where it goes
Need help with vacuum lines
- Thread starter trevorgroves92
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Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
The computer has the best mix of performance and fuel mileage if everything is working properly and that's a big if. 40 years in with people messing with things, using wrong replacement parts and things degrading in general that's not an optimal situation.
My first step us to always try to get it running with what's there if it's all still in tact. But when you start getting into replacing the computer or the carb and you still don't know what else is wrong that adds up fast especially when you could be dealing with a worn out engine, have cats that are clogged or any other problem on top of everything else. At some point you have ti decide how comitted you are or have to get it running the quickest most economical way possible.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
Like I said you need to check the vacuum diagram and look for something that's not connected. Without anyone physically seeing the car its all a guess.
Did you check under the air cleaner? There's a connection there which is the one AHBguru mentioned.
Every gasoline car and truck built today used Electronic Spark Advance and Electronic Fuel Control. Chrysler ditched points ignition well over 50 years ago, and before GM and Ford did.
As Mike so eloquently put it, if you don't know what you're dealing with, it makes it very difficult to maintain and/or repair. Quite often, the best solution is to tear it all apart, and start over from scratch.
The key to these things, without a doubt, is good vacuum lines, with good connections, at the right locations. Second to that is carb condition, and ignition condition. If your vacuum lines are good, it makes troubleshooting much easier.
The idea that the fuel and ignition systems on these things made them slow is simply false. It didn't. The tall gears and the worst exhaust system ever produced are what affects the performance. They were large intermediates at the time, designed for cruising at the (then) 55 mph speed limit, and decent MPG.
And this is where younger enthusiasts get mixed up: these things were never "muscle cars". And you can't make them into a "muscle" car without spending lots of money.
Fix it up nice, drive it for what it is, and enjoy it for what it is. These cars excel that way, in a manner today's cars can't.
As Mike so eloquently put it, if you don't know what you're dealing with, it makes it very difficult to maintain and/or repair. Quite often, the best solution is to tear it all apart, and start over from scratch.
The key to these things, without a doubt, is good vacuum lines, with good connections, at the right locations. Second to that is carb condition, and ignition condition. If your vacuum lines are good, it makes troubleshooting much easier.
The idea that the fuel and ignition systems on these things made them slow is simply false. It didn't. The tall gears and the worst exhaust system ever produced are what affects the performance. They were large intermediates at the time, designed for cruising at the (then) 55 mph speed limit, and decent MPG.
And this is where younger enthusiasts get mixed up: these things were never "muscle cars". And you can't make them into a "muscle" car without spending lots of money.
Fix it up nice, drive it for what it is, and enjoy it for what it is. These cars excel that way, in a manner today's cars can't.
trevorgroves92
Member
Ok. You have the correct carb. At the end of that hose would've been a vacuum delay valve, then it would run up to the bottom of the intake, to the air temp sensor. Another hose would run from the sensor to the flapper valve on the snorkel. You could just plug it with a golf tee, and it should be just fine, or reconnect it to factory spec, if the flapper and flexible pipe to the stove off the left manifold are both good. If you plug it, it generally won't make a huge difference in how it runs, except in really cold weather.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
Did you look under the air cleaner?
trevorgroves92
Member
So, I did notice that there is a nipple on that air temp sensor with no hose on it but when I hook this hose up to that it idles and runs worse, also runs worse if I just plug the hose with a screw. I'm wondering if it needs hooked up and then some fidgeting with the idle speed may correct the issue but like I said carburetors are like space age technology to me I'm a mechanic but only been in the industry for the last 10 years lol
trevorgroves92
Member
I did and there is a nipple that this hose would reach but plugging it in makes it run worse. Just plugging the hose with a screw makes it run extremely rich to the point where it putters out and stalls
Ok. Quick cheap fix:
Plug that hose (or cap the port), not with a screw but a golf tee or something like that.
Next, you're going to get a small set of plastic vacuum tees from O'Reilly or someplace, and tee the air cleaner line into the line that serves the choke vacuum kick. You'll probably need a decent length of new hose to run from the carb to the tee, then from there to the air cleaner and choke pull-off. That would put you back to square one at factory spec. I think that should cure it.
One other thought -
I used to modify the EGR circuit to eliminate half the apparatus used in that system. It still functions as intended, just simplified.
You'll need your trusty box o' tees, new vacuum hose, and the vacuum diagrams for the car. You're going to tee the EGR vacuum hose into the "output" (not the carb side) of the vacuum hose from the CCVS, which is located at the front left of the intake. In other words, you want the hose that has vacuum after the switch, when it opens at the specified temperature. Tee into that, run it directly to the EGR, and you can eliminate the EGR signal hose to the amplifier, plus the amplifier itself. Cleans things up a bit, and works exactly the same way.
I used to modify the EGR circuit to eliminate half the apparatus used in that system. It still functions as intended, just simplified.
You'll need your trusty box o' tees, new vacuum hose, and the vacuum diagrams for the car. You're going to tee the EGR vacuum hose into the "output" (not the carb side) of the vacuum hose from the CCVS, which is located at the front left of the intake. In other words, you want the hose that has vacuum after the switch, when it opens at the specified temperature. Tee into that, run it directly to the EGR, and you can eliminate the EGR signal hose to the amplifier, plus the amplifier itself. Cleans things up a bit, and works exactly the same way.
