Need some engine rebuild advice

[shadango]

So for anyone following the saga, my son and I are are removing for the purpose of rebuilding our 1980 Volare's slant 6 after "something" recently came apart causing non metallic metal to flow through the oil pump, ultimately siezing it.

Now, I have been told "time for a HEMI!"......"time for a stroker small block!" and the like.....however, as much as I would love to do that, there are several factors right now ---- budget, time and practicality.

The car is my almost 17 year old son's first car.....so 300+ HP right now might not be the best thing to have at his newbie (though so far very responsible) fingertips. So thats the first issue.

Next is that this car will be year round to his work, school, etc. SO it has to be reliable, fuel efficient enough for him to be able to drive it and cold-weather friendly. I also want to feel safe with him driving it on the highways, where the new speedlimit on some is 70 mph. AND the kicker....we need to get it back together before the snow flies and the weather turns to crap here...sometime in late october or november usually.

The car came to us with all emissions stuff in place--- how well its functioning, no idea....but it is all there. Air pump, cat, all sorts of vacuum switches and doodads and a mile of emissions hoses. I would love to clean up under the hood because IMHO its a rats nest of goop that probably doesnt do a helluva lot for actual emissions. That said, we have to pass a VISUAL emissions inspection yearly.....so I assume that means all the emissions gear needs to be in place.

Still, since we are going through everything and having the engine redone , it seems like a great time to try and find a few extra ponies and fun for the boy.

So the question is -- what can be done in the machine shop and during the engine rebuild to eek out a few more smiles per gallon AND miles per gallon while keeping the emissions goop all in place (as much as I hate thinking about reinstalling all of that!)?

Reading a multitude of posts here and on the slant6 forum, seems like milling the head to get a cr of "8 dynamic" is one favorite......I assume porting /polishing the head would be advantageous......what about the stock intake and exhaust manifolds? It only supports the stock one barrel which I know doesnt scream or even whisper performance......

So is there a route we can take in some "souping up" to keep the law, my son and my checkbook all happy at the same time?

Or are we better off to just go stock rebuild and put her back the way it was until at some point we can find a way around the emissions mess?

Thanks all!

 

[7T8 Custom]

Here is a /6 performance option for you. Super Six

 

[shadango]

This is great!

It sounds like even the new 1986 super six setup would work on our 1980?

Anyone have a super 6 setup for sale????? Lol

 

[BudW]

I’m not a /6 expert but do know a few things.

The Super Six (2 bbl) setup is a start.

Bumping the compression up a smidge also helps (be sure it is enough to run the pump gas in your area).

Finding a camshaft would be my next tip – if a person can find one.
Again, a notch above stock or two is all you need. Get much more than that, and car’s drivability starts to suffer.

Porting and polishing the cylinder head, intake (which is hard) and exhaust (which is also hard) is next step.
As far as intake and exhaust manifolds, I would port them to match the gaskets and general cleanup. Those exhaust manifolds have a tendency to crack, especially if ground down a lot.
Sometimes just cleaning up the rough casting is all you need.

If any grinding/sanding is done to any of the ports, be sure to clean those components well to get all source of abrasive and contamination out – or it will eat bearings up in no time.

Check size of exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold and on. If a person was to replace with bigger exhaust there will be a noticeable drown inside car - that might negate the performance aspect. On same line of thought, you don’t want the 2 bbl to exhale through a straw.

I can' t think of anything else.

 

[BudW]

This is great!
It sounds like even the new 1986 super six setup would work on our 1980?
Anyone have a super 6 setup for sale????? Lol

The /6 2-bbl setup was available for a number of year vehicles – so even if you find a setup made in the ‘60’s, that will be fine – except for possibly an emission fitting or two may be missing from the carburetor that you might need.

Be sure to get all of the transmission kickdown linkage and air cleaner.

 

[Mcfly68]

Sweet Slant Six

 

[Master M]

I'll dampen the performance party and suggest to keep it stock. The slant 6 is an incredibly reliable engine in stock form. It will also be tame when your not there for those teenager hormones.

 

[kkritsilas]

Two ways to go about this:

1. Find a 2 or 4 barrel intake and headers for the /6. With the raised compression, they will help. The Super 6 version of the /6 used a 2 barrel from the factory. I don't know if this will impact your visual emissions test or if it is allowed. Sources are Clifford, and there is an intake manifold and exhaust headers on the forbbodiesonly.com web site as of last night. They are in the For Sale section under Mechanical parts. Prices look reasonable.

2. Move to a stock V8, either a 318 or a 360. Going to need motor mounts (See Schumacher) and a V8 automatic. Visual inspection will pass if you get all of the emissions equipment with the engine.

 

[brotherGood]

Gears. Find something simple to address the engine issue, but save some back for gears..thatll be the biggest improvement as far as seat of the pants performance goes.

 

[BudW]

Gears. Find something simple to address the engine issue, but save some back for gears..thatll be the biggest improvement as far as seat of the pants performance goes.

I would agree 100% - if vehicle use will be in town. If vehicle will be used to college and or distance travel is planned - then one may want to re-think gear ratio.

The question is what gear ratio is currently in car, if a 2.2, 2.4 or a 2.7:1, then a 3.2 or 3.5:1’s will wake the car up but gas mileage suffers on highway.
City, I don’t think will matter that much.

If car has a 2.9:1 then I wouldn’t do anything, myself. Car might already have a 3.2 in it, already (according to the ’80 Ply Volare sales brochure in F-bodies tab) – but I doubt it.

Also, I doubt the differential has a tag on one of the differential cover bolts, that will say – Chrysler’s use of the tags more or less stopped a few years earlier.

Going back to stock is not a bad idea, but engine will run more effectively with slightly higher than stock components. No matter what you, you will have to work hard to get into trouble with a /6.
Even a stock 318 2-bbl, one will have to be working on it to get into trouble,

If the kiddo wants something more, and after he gets a few hours of driving under his belt, then the sky is the limit.

 

[shadango]

This us all great advice folks. Thanks!

I figured that the super 6 setup would be stock enough to give him a little bump in power, stay stock enough for the law, and yet make me feel like we gained something in all this....lol

It may be tough to find the super 6 stuff quickly so I think the goal will be we reassemble with the current stuff assuming it is ok and then when we find the super 6 kit we install it....in the meantime have the compression bumped slightly and a very mild cam....

We pulled the engine yesterday and I have to say it was fun in the end!!

Gonna start tea ring down the motorn today or tomorrow.

 

[BudW]

I’ve seen a few Super Six setups for sale recently – but nothing in my area.

I can understand your concern on power improvements – but these cars are not powerhouses to begin with.

My ’77 Volare 318 2-bbl, with 3.2 gears, no A/C (or any other options) in stock form does ¼ mile in 17.6 seconds (gear ratio is what helps the time out a lot). My ’86 318 2-bbl, with 2.2 gears does 21.1 seconds in same distance.
Both cars have almost 100 additional cubic inch displacement (93 inch to be exact) – so I don’t think you have much to worry about.

 

[4speedjim]

It wouldnt be more that $100 to pick up a good used /6. Less if you go to a pick a part and pull it yourself. You and your son can change some gaskets and clean it up some. Blow a can of paint on the motor swap them out over a weekend. I think the 2 bbl super 6 is rated at 95hp, the single, 90. Keep an eye open for a cheap deal on a 2 bbl & intake or complete super 6 to drop in. Save the $100s or $1000s on new parts, machining, down time and disappointment. The cost to make any power (return on investment) over 100hp will exceed the value of the car, make the exhaust drone and still perform like a /6. IMO its just not worth the chase. Keep that $$ for school, wheels and tires, interior repairs or maybe a modified la or Hemi & trans for a graduation present. They sell headers for about $600 which many buy to replace cracked ex mani. Same for a cam if you can find one. They sell 2 & 4 bbl intakes too. But in all honesty your just pushing rope up hill. Depending on where you go for inspection in your state, a visual makes for easy removal of things like the air pumps & miles of vacuum hose. A prick may call you out on it, but I bet the next shop down the road wont. Specially an independent shop.