NEW BRAKE LINES

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CM360

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Any source for factory like brake lines in steel or SS (front to back)?
 
Inline Tubing has them for F-body. Haven't looked lately to see if they've added other models yet however. Might be worth a look, just in case.
 
CM360 said:
Any source for factory like brake lines in steel or SS (front to back)?
Click to expand...
If Inline Tube does not have them in stock, you can send yours in and they will reproduce them.
 
I removed all of the rusty brake lines (and fuel lines) off of the completely rusted through '84 Gran Fury I once had (for parts) – so I could use them for template for making a new stainless set for my projects.

That said – the front brake lines are different on my '77 - brake lines are routed on radiator core support on it, and not on firewall. Fuel lines should be the same.

I wouldn't doubt the fuel lines have a minor rust through hole in them somewhere on my '86 (suspect - but not confirmed).
Making the new fuel lines 3/8” (instead of the existing 5/16) is also on my mind – which might still do (not sure yet).

Eastwood nice flare tool finally arrived (regular flare line tools suck big time) and eager to start using it. Now I need some good benders.
Also, I don't like to straighten lines (that come in a coil) – for it's a pain to do. Eastwood has a tool for that – but I can't justify the cost of 'em.
BudW
 
I got a full set front to back for a '78 Volare from Inline Tube, so the patterns do exist. By the way, it was only $15-20 more for Stainless Steel!
 
Those are the ones I used also, fit like a glove. The fuel/vapor line kit was the same way. The steel brake line were like $85 and for that price, it doesn't pay to screw around building your own. Seems the fuel lines were about the same price. Don't remember exactly anymore.
They don't list them for J or M body however. Not 100% sure but I'd guess CM360 has a J-body (?)
 
For the brake (and fuel) lines I've made over the years – the job is time consuming.
I have spent 4 hours to make one piece of tube about 4 foot long, before – but that also includes using a cheap flare tool (which I will not EVER use again).


Cheap flare tool.jpg

A CHEAP flare tool. Note how wing-nuts get in your way making the tubes on both sides unusable. When you do get a straight shot, then twisting motion damages the flare.


proflare.jpg

A nice flare tool. No twisting motion used. Takes much less time and end results are perfect every time.


AP145-4.jpg

FYI, I still need to get a line bead tool. The bead used on fuel (OK, on any) lines help prevent leaks and hoses coming off (I know from experience).
parkerbead.jpg
 
As with a lot of things, the tools make the job. Sometimes a "cheap" tool will be just fine while other times (like tubing flaring, bending, etc) the tool makes the job.
I've got the "cheap" flare tool, although it is a Snap-On and works half ways decent. At work, the shop has one similar to the Eastwood unit to do both double and bubble flares in SAE or metric tubing. As you said, perfect flare every time. Good thing too, being in the so called "salt belt" we go through brake line like it's going out of style.

You do know when you will make the most perfect flare you've ever made in your life don't you? It's the one that you forgot to put the tubing nut on the line first. Not that I know that from personal experience, whistle, whistle, whistle.
 
I’ve had done the same thing, many a time.
A check list (before installing flare tool) helps as well as colored electrical tape (to keep nuts from falling off or in your way).

Nothing like getting the last flare done with its nut in place, but then discovering the first nut had fallen off unknowingly.
 
Also,,,,,,,,,,,make sure the nut is at the end of the line BEFORE putting the bends in. DOH! lol
If you've ever made brake lines and say you haven't done either of those things at least once, you are either very lucky or flat out lying.:D
 
Brake lines are like lumber.
Too easy to cut one too short – so measure twice, cut once, and make a check list of those nuts before finishing the final flare.
Well that last one doesn’t apply to lumber – but I think you know what I mean.
 
Aspen500 said:
Those are the ones I used also, fit like a glove. The fuel/vapor line kit was the same way. The steel brake line were like $85 and for that price, it doesn't pay to screw around building your own. Seems the fuel lines were about the same price. Don't remember exactly anymore.
They don't list them for J or M body however. Not 100% sure but I'd guess CM360 has a J-body (?)
Click to expand...

I'd imagine J and M are the same as the F's for the same model years.
Definitely buy new if you dont have the tools and some experience using them.
I have some decent flare tools but still bought new lines for my Demon.
Considring the time and material costs it wasnt really a savings to make them.
I'd rather use that time for something else to save money on the build.
 
I just checked Inline Tube and noticed for Volare they show FRONT brake line set. Unless it's a typo, doesn't sound like the rear lines come with the kit(?) which doesn't really make sense.
It's the same price as when I bought mine a few years ago and it was a full kit, master to wheels. To buy the tubing alone would cost about as much as the lines prebent, seriously.

For Aspen they only show brake lines, no fuel lines but for Volare they do. As we all know they're the same.
They do show '76-'86 Diplomat brake and fuel lines with different p/n's than f-body. List only fuel lines for Fury, no brake lines. Hmmmmmmmm............................My guess is the listings aren't entirely right.
The premade lines are nice. All the correct tube nuts, the armor spring is installed, etc and are more or less a "bolt on".
 
Aspen500 said:
I just checked Inline Tube and noticed for Volare they show FRONT brake line set. Unless it's a typo, doesn't sound like the rear lines come with the kit(?) which doesn't really make sense.
It's the same price as when I bought mine a few years ago and it was a full kit, master to wheels. To buy the tubing alone would cost about as much as the lines prebent, seriously.

For Aspen they only show brake lines, no fuel lines but for Volare they do. As we all know they're the same.
They do show '76-'86 Diplomat brake and fuel lines with different p/n's than f-body. List only fuel lines for Fury, no brake lines. Hmmmmmmmm............................My guess is the listings aren't entirely right.
The premade lines are nice. All the correct tube nuts, the armor spring is installed, etc and are more or less a "bolt on".
Click to expand...

It's best to phone them. They'll dig through their archives to come up with what you need.
 
I can't comment on J-bodies (not exactly sure).
The '76-77 F body front brake lines run odd compared to everything else Chrysler made.
The '78 on F and M body are the same - except for 2dr rear lines are shorter than the 4dr/wagon ones are (fuel and brake)
 
As much as I like the idea of a harder line, such as steel, I've been using copper-nickel lines recently. They flare and bend SO easily, and never rust. So long as you do them right, they'll never rust away. Just treat your steel fittings with some good lube yearly and never worry about it.
 
Under a panic stop, the brake line pressures can get real high (not sure of exact PSI’s, but the top of head is thinking maybe 20,000 PSI, but could be wrong).

Most materials will balloon under that much pressure – which can lead to “a bad day”.

Steel and stainless steel is the only two materials I know of approved to be used for brake lines.
I’m thinking stainless just barely meets the requirements.
 
We've been using the nickle/copper brake tubing exclusively at work for a couple years now with no problems. It meets all SAE, ISO, and DOT standards so, no worries. It never rusts, just turns green after a couple years (patina, lol). Also bends and flares much easier which makes running lines in confined spaces possible without as much disassembly which makes the job go faster and ends up offsetting the extra cost of the line. There, how's that for a sales pitch? :p
It costs quite a bit more but we won't have to do the job over in 5 years when steel line would be rotted out again and how much is a life worth?
 
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