NEW BRAKE LINES

Whoa 5 years to rust-out! You live in a caustic environment,lol. Up here it may be cold in winter, but our steel lines last for several decades. Unless they get water puddling inside of them of course,lol. The steel lines on my 68 are 68issue. All the hoses were replaced in 98.At which time the calipers and wheel cylinders were also rebuilt, and that's also when the DOT5 went in. So I think I'll still stick to steel.
But thx for the update.
 
Yes, 5 years. Granted that's for uncoated steel line, such as used on the 2000-2007 Chevy Silverado and others. We keep GM brake line kits in stock for those (complete vehicle kits are only $80-$90 right from GM). The replacement GM line ARE coated steel so maybe they learned their lesson, lol.
Not that long ago I replaced the rear brake lines on a 2010 Buick LaCrosse. It's the massive amounts of road salt used in the winter months that does them in.
Already have seen vehicles as new as 2012 with rust pinholes over the rear wheel openings. My "bosses" 2011 F150 has the cab corners rusted out already. Only state where you replace exhaust manifolds because they ROTTED OUT, or even cylinder heads with holes rusted in them and either leaking exhaust or coolant. Ever see a brake caliper leak fluid through a rust hole in the caliper housing? I have and it's not pretty. They rot from the outside in, not the inside out btw. Yes, it does really suck......................................Fortunately Carquest is right next door so when we need yet another cylinder of acetylene or oxygen for the smoke wrench it doesn't take long. We go through a lot of it, especially when you end up having to heat half the fasteners to get something apart. All a part of the job when you live in a rust belt state.
 
BudW said:
Under a panic stop, the brake line pressures can get real high (not sure of exact PSI’s, but the top of head is thinking maybe 20,000 PSI, but could be wrong).

Most materials will balloon under that much pressure – which can lead to “a bad day”.

Steel and stainless steel is the only two materials I know of approved to be used for brake lines.
I’m thinking stainless just barely meets the requirements.
Click to expand...
If the lines were copper alone, yes they would blow out left and right, forward and back, every which way. This is why they're hardened with nickel. Copper is the anti rust part, nickel is the strength. Twice the money, but worth it. Stainless is a pain to flare but it looks nice!
 
BudW, you added one too many zero's. Brake pressure is generally about 1,200 psi max, give or take a little. Might be a bit more when you have an "oh sh*t" moment when the deer steps out in front of you at 60 mph, lol. 20,000 psi would blow out any kind of brake line, not to mention the hoses:eek:
 
Might have been thinking “diesel” then.

I know copper and aluminum won’t cut it for brake usage (but easy to work with though).
Don’t recall ever hearing about or using Copper/Nickel blend though.
Actually, I’ve not worked with stainless tubing before either (making fittings, etc.) - but bought a bunch to make new lines for my car with.

Nickel appears to be one of those wonder metals.
BudW
 
The copper nickle tubing is 90% copper and 10% nickle. I believe Volvo uses it as original equipment. Actually it's the only type the Carquest next door to work carries anymore. It's quite a bit more expensive than the old steel line but worth it IMO. Nice stuff to work with. That said, if you are doing a restoration it would obviously look different then original with the light copper finish. Not like copper pipes in your house, more like a goldish/copperish color, if that makes any sense.
Stainless always has a problem sealing at the flare connections. It's like it's too hard and doesn't conform? Usually OK if everything is new so the new stainless flares are connected to component with new seats. I've very little experience with it but didn't care for it personally.
 
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