NEW M PROJECT

CM360

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Bought a very clean '81 Diplomat 2dr , /6. Will be replacing the /6 with 318 . I have the 67-69 B body 8 3/4. What's the solution for using a 5 pack leaf spring, ISO delete of course, adding a rear sway bar and what issues will there be with rear shocks(mounting and /or part# needed? THX
 

Duke5A

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Call Firm Feel. They can sell you a setup that converts to a B body shock plate and have another plate that goes between the axle and spring with the bar end link mount. Don't get the one with weld on tabs. They have a piece from another kit that requires no welding. You can use B body shocks with this setup.

I'll post photos of my setup when I get home.
 

PursuitSpecial

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Bought a very clean '81 Diplomat 2dr , /6. Will be replacing the /6 with 318 . I have the 67-69 B body 8 3/4. What's the solution for using a 5 pack leaf spring, ISO delete of course, adding a rear sway bar and what issues will there be with rear shocks(mounting and /or part# needed? THX
Man that's blasphemy, you should keep the slant 6 in it. They make such nice drivers. Even with the 318 I think the easiest solution here is just to find an FMJ 8.25, unless you're looking for a mega hot rod, in that case in order to put a B body rear end in there you're going to have to cut the saddle mounts out and relocate them and reset the pinion angle and stuff, it's a lot of trouble you really need to find someone who knows what they're doing for info.
 

M_Body_Coupe

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...Will be replacing the /6 with 318...
You know: there is NO replacement for displacement!!! (Turbo stuff aside)

Seriously, if you are going to go into the trouble of tossing a V8 in there (which means that you need to move to a V8 trans as well), why not go for max ROI here?

The stroker kits these days aren't all that much more, heck maybe even cheaper than getting your own stuff machined and spending the time on making sure it all fits together, no?

Just a thought...

OH, and the ISO stuff...umm, maybe I'm the only one here to feel differently, but POLY is going to fix whatever OEM mushiness you have in there, swap the front spring eye to a ROUND poly bushing as well (that would require replacing the main leaf of course), or simply get the poly oval bushings.

Anyways, the ISO poly biscuts fit just fine, they are solid man, and to boot that approach just has you re-use any existing top plates that have the sway bar end-link mounting tabs on there already.

For what it's worth: this winter will have me swap out the 3/4" rear bar for a 1", and that's with all POLY stuff at the back...car already handles very nicely, but being the sexy shape of a brick shit-house anything else you can do to control the body roll will certainly help!!!
 

CM360

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I've run the gamut since the early 70-'s from street cars, D/SA,A/MP, B/A, F/C and lots of project cars. Looking to build a daily driver and get rid of anything post 1990. I thought that I could just use new M body leaf springs with the 8 3/4 and B body shock plates. Just trying to confirm the right direction and what I will need for a rear sway bar with this proposed combo. BTW, I did a /6, P&P heads, Clifford cam, water jacketed 4 bbl intake, Dutra headers, 4speed trans in a '64 Valiant. It was cool but my street cars were faster.
 

Justwondering

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You know: there is NO replacement for displacement!!! (Turbo stuff aside)

Seriously, if you are going to go into the trouble of tossing a V8 in there (which means that you need to move to a V8 trans as well), why not go for max ROI here?

The stroker kits these days aren't all that much more, heck maybe even cheaper than getting your own stuff machined and spending the time on making sure it all fits together, no?

Just a thought...

OH, and the ISO stuff...umm, maybe I'm the only one here to feel differently, but POLY is going to fix whatever OEM mushiness you have in there, swap the front spring eye to a ROUND poly bushing as well (that would require replacing the main leaf of course), or simply get the poly oval bushings.

Anyways, the ISO poly biscuts fit just fine, they are solid man, and to boot that approach just has you re-use any existing top plates that have the sway bar end-link mounting tabs on there already.

For what it's worth: this winter will have me swap out the 3/4" rear bar for a 1", and that's with all POLY stuff at the back...car already handles very nicely, but being the sexy shape of a brick shit-house anything else you can do to control the body roll will certainly help!!!
sexy shape of a brick shit-house .... lordy, that made me smile tonight.
JW
 

kkritsilas

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As a personal opinion, if he his going to change the engines over any way, just go all the way with a Magnum 360. Serpentine belt drive, no need to worry about zinc content in the oil (it already has roller lifters), Higher compression, better heads, and change the intake to a carb or third party fuel injection. Also it makes around 260 HP right out of the box. A Magnum 318/5.2 (245 HP) would also be good, less torque as well, and you don't have to worry about transmission/engine balancing. That's just me thinking out loud, though.
 
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