new member, new f body wagon in the works

famous bob

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Thinking strongly on buying a 78 volare waon, slant 6 is laying down, headliner gone. he has sent me some pics of the rust out underneath the car. It appears like the subframe or something is rusted out below the floor pan, the floor looks to be in decent shape. Can anyone tell me from that desription what is rusted? Cant do pics yet. The interior is tan leather and is in good shape, body appears to be super straight and sets nice, will need paint sooner or later, bumpers-grill - lights all good, and will drive up on the trailer. Will need front end work. Will be doing all of it myself, as I have my 505" 68 fastback about done, and getting bored at times.--------thanks, Bob
 

famous bob

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Thinking strongly on buying a 78 volare waon, slant 6 is laying down, headliner gone. he has sent me some pics of the rust out underneath the car. It appears like the subframe or something is rusted out below the floor pan, the floor looks to be in decent shape. Can anyone tell me from that desription what is rusted? Cant do pics yet. The interior is tan leather and is in good shape, body appears to be super straight and sets nice, will need paint sooner or later, bumpers-grill - lights all good, and will drive up on the trailer. Will need front end work. Will be doing all of it myself, as I have my 505" 68 fastback about done, and getting bored at times.--------thanks, Bob
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well, there is sure a lot of help here !
 

F body Deconstructor Jim

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not exactly the busiest board Bob, patience!
only thing below the floor pan is the subframe.
front frames do tend to rot, drivers side much more so than passenger.
right in the area where it meets the floor pan forward up the rise to the K frame mount.
hard to get specific without more info.
 

famous bob

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not exactly the busiest board Bob, patience!
only thing below the floor pan is the subframe.
front frames do tend to rot, drivers side much more so than passenger.
right in the area where it meets the floor pan forward up the rise to the K frame mount.
hard to get specific without more info.
--------------- he mailed me pics, seems to be below the floor pans on both sides. I asked him if the carpet was showing in the pics, he said it was the the floor pans, and they look to be in good shape, and that's what I was looking at. the car is about 2-3 hrs from me, and I haven`t looked at it yet.
hey thanks, was wondering about this forum! LOL. how hard is it to repair that rust ? Can parts be bought, or made at home ? I don't have a rotissery, would be laying on my back to fix it. I did put floor pans in my 68 fastback. thanks, again, Bob
 

got job

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Parts can be bought from Jim the guy that answered your previous posts. Others on here have parts also. Lots of info here but not as busy as FABO, a body forum. If you are on Facebook, look at and join Mopar M,J,F, & R Fans. Lots of activity there.
Ricky
 

BudW

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Where about is the car located at?

I live in Oklahoma City. My brother lives in Verdigris. My folks live in NW Arkansas. Either one of us can be of help on trying to determine what it will take to fix (and no, neither of us will try to get it, behind you).

I got lucky and my ’77 wagon, 318 2-bbl, is almost rust free (except for fender tops and tailgate inner support (minor area). It’s now got 41k miles on it and fun to drive. Even my 10 year old twins like it.

These forums do get busy at times. Myself, I was elsewhere during the past 3-day weekend.
BudW
 

famous bob

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Where about is the car located at?

I live in Oklahoma City. My brother lives in Verdigris. My folks live in NW Arkansas. Either one of us can be of help on trying to determine what it will take to fix (and no, neither of us will try to get it, behind you).

I got lucky and my ’77 wagon, 318 2-bbl, is almost rust free (except for fender tops and tailgate inner support (minor area). It’s now got 41k miles on it and fun to drive. Even my 10 year old twins like it.

These forums do get busy at times. Myself, I was elsewhere during the past 3-day weekend.
BudW
I don`t know the exact address, it`s in okc, on craigslist. I have kinda left the guy hanging on buying it. He was very slow to respond to start with, so I guess we`re even. It sounds to me like the front frame rails are rotted out-????? If u want to look at it, u can find it under for sale- station wagons-by owner-on craigslist. I won`t get upset if ur interested in it, I`m just too lazy to drag a trailer up there sight unseen . Let me know what u think, if u go look at it.- Is ur brother a mopar nut ? Verdigree is only about 15?, miles from me. thanks, bob
 

BudW

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I did a Google search using posters name (Wesley Tinnin) and “believe” that he lives about 5 miles from me (or thereabouts).

I would be happy to look at car for you and give my opinion about it – or even look at car with you if wanted (and can bring my wagon along for comparison sake).

Its up to what you want to do.
BudW
 

BudW

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I went and looked at this gem this morning. According to CL map, the car was roughly 4-5 miles from my home. Actually, car is closer to 24 miles each way.

The owner was in his mid-twenties and lives in a nice part of town (a nice house on at least 2 Acres), and this car looked a bit out of place, there.

I think my smart phone has been dropped too many times – for half of the pictures I took, didn’t come out.

When I arrived, vehicle did not have enough in battery to start the car. I have it a jump with my wagon - but it didn’t take much for car to kick off. He had a voltmeter and shortly after startup, the battery voltage was 14.4 volts. It has a new appearing alternator and a battery with “E6” sticker on it (battery made May 2016). Both battery cable ends were cut off with these style ends added. I’m 95.92% certain that dissembling and cleaning the ends and will, will fix the no start condition.

Engine started fairly easily – but I would replace starter with a mini starter to increase engine crank over speed (if car was mine).

I did not look for or to find the leak – but engine sounds exactly as if the exhaust manifold is cracked (I’ve replaced way too many /6 manifolds to know what they sound like).

The owner said engine has been going through spark plugs, pretty fast. He also said he suspects vehicle has over 100k miles on it (which I agree on). I suspect changing valve guide seals may fix the spark plug fouling condition – or if not, it will make a big dent in that problem.

Someone took off the RV2 A/C compressor and replaced with a Sanyo style aftermarket compressor – which is a bit odd. Owner said A/C works but is not cold. The car does have the factory A/C firewall bubble - which one doesn't find with Sanyo style A/C compressors, often.
Also the ordinal A/C hoses were cut and spliced, as well.

He also said the previous owner had a minor fender bender that broke the grill and other minor front end damage. Note: someone welded up a grill out of metal – that sure looks "better than nothing". There is some minor damage behind the front bumper – so I “think” the A/C condenser might be punctured, maybe. I think the A/C wouldn’t take much to get operational – if a person had access to R-12.

Body wise – there is rust-through on hatch roof area (see picture notes), rust pinholes on rear wheel lips and rust-through on L/F floor pan. My other under car pictures did not take – or was lost. The frame rails do have some rust, but I consider it to be minor.
No fender rust seen - even in the usual areas!

Interior wise – The dash and front seat area looks to be in great shape – if you like black, that is. The seats – not so much. The seats are intact but are in not that good of condition.
I didn’t look at rear seat area.
The spare tire was on top of the tray. The owner removed the tailgate trim to add speakers but decided against that and instead added speakers, recently, into the two side compartment doors. The tailgate trim was ready to reinstall – but he lost the screws for it.
The D-Pillar trim is missing as well as the headliner.
Current owner said he was planning on purchasing carpet and gluing the carpet onto the roof!

The spare tire well is a different color than rest of car was, and I had thought maybe they forgot to paint the area – possibly. It looks like brown primer (see picture). The owner said car was painted before he bought the car – to its current color of green. The paint it sun-burnt off in several places. If someone went through the trouble to repaint the car – they did a great job doing so, for underhood area is painted the same color - but maybe not so great on how paint is sticking on.
The fender tag shows "MU3" which is Carmel Tan (bright tan).

This vehicle does need a paint job and at same time, get the minor rust spots fixed before rust takes over the car (ie: needs paint and rust fixed, sooner rather than later).

This vehicle has the 5 thin chrome roof top luggage rack strips – but no luggage rack framework! No screw holes for the framework even exist! It looks as if it was a luggage rack delete – but someone screwed up on assembly line – or maybe I should just shorten that down to “someone screwed up on the assembly line”.

20170619_092905a.jpg

L/F frame rail, view "A"

20170619_092912a.jpg

L/F frame rail, view "B"

20170619_092912b.jpg

Rusted-through floor board, just above L/F frame rail (a blowup of above picture)

20170619_092912c.jpg

A blow-up of L/F frame rail rust (also from 2nd picture from top).

Note: R/F frame rail picture did not come out - but condition is the same (floor pan is better, there).

20170619_093034a.jpg

Taillamp lens is intact, but poor condition. Rear bumper plastic is broken.

20170619_093104a.jpg

I "think" the R/R wheel is the original spare wheel. The other 4 wheels match.

20170619_093104b.jpg

A blow-up of rust on R/R wheel well.

20170619_093135a.jpg

8¼” differential, with 5-leaf rear springs. The fuel tank has a small bend in it at edge of picture, from backing over something. it is not leaking.
 
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BudW

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20170619_094204a.jpg
20170619_093256a.jpg

Trunk trim panel is laying on top of tire. Car tag was just renewed March 2017. The trunk side compartment speaker can be seen with silver outline.

20170619_093256b.jpg

Upper hatch panel rust-through. Tailgate opens/closes as normal.

20170619_093346a.jpg

Note different color for spare tire area. No rust-though seen. One of the original sunvisers (which is being held by, owners hand) has a broken stand - so one will need to find one replacement sunviser.
The spare tire lid insulation is what is hanging down, in this photo.

20170619_093429a.jpg

I didn't intend on getting the sunlight like so (sorry). Lack of headliner.

20170619_093720a.jpg

Missing cowl screen. A poor shot of metal grill. You can see the factory hoses spliced. New alternator seen. Washer fluid tank is holding.

20170619_094056a.jpg

Black interior. 40/20/40 seats. Funky brake/gas petals & 8 ball shifter.

20170619_094204a.jpg

Muffler has seen better days. I'm not sure if it works - for can't hear it over the cracked exhaust manifold.

20170619_094232a.jpg

E26 – 225 2v (Super 6)
D31 – A904
C6U5 - Trim Code
331 - Built March 31, 1978
MU3 – Exterior paint is Carmel Tan (Bright Tan)
A68 – Custom Interior Package
C15 – Sound Insulation
C21 – Center arm rest
C56 – Bucket seats, non-reclining.
G11 – Tint Glass, all windows
G52 – Left mirror, Remote control, Conventional
G73 – Right mirror, Remote control, Conventional
H51 – A/C
J83 - ? (about the speedometer)
The M31, M33, M36, M43, M44 and M91 codes have to do with exterior trim and bumper trim (or lack thereof).
N98 – 49 State, with Cat Converter, wo/Lean Burn (has standard ignition).
HL45D8B2883436
Volare, Low trim level, 2 (row) seat wagon, 225 Super 6, 1978, built in Hamtramck MI

BudW
 

BudW

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After re-reading the CL listing, He said car has leather seats.
I didn’t “touch” the seats but would say there is a high likelihood, the seats are vinyl, not leather.

Also, you can see the 5 center luggage rack strips, and also see the lack of the luggage rack outer rails in his photos.

The listing says $1,000. He mentioned $500 while we were talking about the car – but I didn’t discuss money, at all.
I would bet, if a person was to waive cash, of less than that, in front of him, I bet he might whip out the title right away to sign over (my guess, but not 100% sure).


I’m not looking for another car (and might have to sleep with the dogs in the doghouse for a spell, if I did), but shoot, for even $300, I’d take the car. It might be a good one for my twins – in a few years.

It might take a person a couple of hundred to get it running well (valve seals, battery cable repairs, A/C condenser (I think), etc.), but overall, the chassis is decent.

Let me know - if you decide to pass on the car.
BudW
 

famous bob

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Just read ur last message. Unbelievable assessment, thank u, very thorough! Got me thinking about it again. I'm 70 and get bored at times, but laying on concrete to weld up a lot of rust ain't in the game any more. Thinking on it. Thanks again, Bob
 

famous bob

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Just read ur last message. Unbelievable assessment, thank u, very thorough! Got me thinking about it again. I'm 70 and get bored at times, but laying on concrete to weld up a lot of rust ain't in the game any more. Thinking on it. Thanks again, Bob
think I`m gonna pass , if ur interested in it , go for it! I thank u again for the great assessment !! Let me know if u buy it, and ur progress on it ---still kinda talking about a early valiant wagon that appears to be in a little better shape,, but no reply yet. Bob
 

BudW

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I spoke to my wife about it and for (what I would guess $300 or $400 in cash might buy), I said this might be great to get for my twins (but they are still 5 years away from driving . . .)

Shoot, there is that much in parts that is sellable or usable (non-cracked dash, 8¼” differential, and so forth).

My wife then gave me the sideways look, and put her hands on her hip saying, and you still have to do ___, and do ___, fix the ___, and fix the ___ (and went on and on).

I'll keep an eye on it and will let you know if my fleet grows.
BudW
 
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