Oil pressure gauge and warning light

Deano

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I'm wanting to run an aftermarket gauge and factory warning light for oil pressure. I have a standard pipe tee fitting and I was wondering if I use teflon tape on the threads if it will seal properly and not leak. The adapter between intake and tee fitting is 1/2" - 3/4" long. I would much rather hear from someone that has this setup before I potentially waste my time.

cast-pipe-fittings-tee.jpg
31uhYCmzScL._SX466_.jpg
 

Mikes5thAve

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You might want to use the factory style T. It's a single hexagonal piece with the two threaded holes so you can get a socket or normal wrench on it. Also aftermarket ones around like attached pic. Easier then using pipe wrench or vice grip back there.

images (10).jpeg
 

Aspen500

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You might want to use the factory style T. It's a single hexagonal piece with the two threaded holes so you can get a socket or normal wrench on it. Also aftermarket ones around like attached pic. Easier then using pipe wrench or vice grip back there.
I second that suggestion. It'd look a lot cleaner also.
 

Deano

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Would look a helluva lot better, 5th. Might end up going with that.
 

BudW

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The factory T's work pretty well - but do not put a lot of side pressure on one (or leave one in engine when removing the engine (from contacting the firewall)) for they do crack when subjected to "side" forces.

Teflon tape works well - but avoid getting any tape inside the port/pipe.
Cars with the oil cooler (police), the oil pressure sender and oil pressure switch are on the passenger side fender well. There, Chrysler uses brass fittings in the shape of an "H":
M Oil Cooler 1.jpg

BudW
 
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69-

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BudW, as always, you are such a great and spot-on source of Information.... My Camper recently experienced relatively heavy oil loss and my factory tee is exposed to side force by the engine cover. I'll definitely take a closelook at that. :)

Other than that - Y -tees are commonly available with 1/8 NPT inner/outer threads for such situations.
 

BudW

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I do see a factory oil adapter from time to time on eBay - but the one pictured, in post # 3 should work just fine.

If your "T" is cracked, take care on removing it. If it breaks off - it is a "not so fun" job to extract the broken part. It is doable, but not fun.

The factory "T" is a sturdy part and the only time I see any problems is when it is left in the engine when engine is removed (for it hits the firewall) or during engine transport.

If you are working on a broken "T", you have to be mindful of not getting metal shavings inside of the engine - which is something most "easy outs" are known to do.
These two designs I find produce the fewest amount of metal shavings (if any) - but both methods need to be hammered into the broken off part:
Extractor A.png

Extractor B.jpg

Then the harder part is to remove the extracted broken piece from you "easy out". . .
BudW
 

M_Body_Coupe

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I used a combination of a brass T to do a factory gauge install and provide a feed for my mechanical oil pressure gauge. Easy to piece together, applied teflon tape and like BudW stated, watch that you do not get any of the tape into the fitting/port.

EDIT
====
I added a couple of pics of my install. I am still not all that happy about it (given the multiple pieces I used), but I needed the extra height to clear the manifold casting and for the factory oil-pressure gauge to clear the valve covers themselves.

oil_sender1.jpg


oil_sender2.jpg
 
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